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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Charge for clutch replace

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Discussion Topic: Charge for clutch replace -- page: 1 2

flatfoot

11-04-2015 @ 4:42 PM

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What would be a fair charge in Calif. to replace a clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, complete for just labor. Car is '36 Ford fordor. Stock transfer closed driveline. Anybody want to give ballpark figure. Labor @$90 an hour.

kubes40

11-04-2015 @ 4:54 PM

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If the place knows what they are doing, that's an easy task in five hours or less. If they don't, perhaps you may want to look elsewhere.

1934 Ford

11-05-2015 @ 5:10 PM

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I agree, that 5 hours is plenty of time for a hobbiest to do that work, excluding other problems. However we tend to expect more from professionals. If they have to figure it out, you shouldn't have to pay $90.00 for their learning experience.
Good luck,
Paul

1934 Ford's since 1972

CharlieStephens

11-05-2015 @ 8:58 PM

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If they can't give you an estimate before they start it probably means they haven't done it before. Find someone that has done it before. Post your general location here and on fordbarn.com and ask for recommendations. Also ask for recommendations from your local V8 club members.

Charlie Stephens

This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 11-5-15 @ 8:59 PM

woodiewagon46

11-06-2015 @ 6:45 AM

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I don't know guy's, I think if it's a shop who has employees that have never seen an old Ford with a torque tube it might be an issue. Sure most of us on this site have done this job but most of the mechanics I have seen lately wouldn't know where to start. Pull the rear back? Remove all the front end sheet metal? I agree with Charlie and would find a few V-8ers and offer to take them and their wives to dinner or something or offer to pay them. Before you do anything flatfoot do your homework!

11-06-2015 @ 9:19 AM

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Lets see someone post the step-by-step procedure on how to do this clutch job without pulling the engine....

Step 1 -
Step 2 -
Step 3 -
Step 4 - etc. etc. etc.

1934 Ford

11-06-2015 @ 12:50 PM

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These are the steps I've been using for over 40 years.
Step 1 - Remove the front seat if you can (Makes a lot easier)
Step 2 - Remove the front floor mat an transmission cover.
Step 3 - Take the 4 bolts out of where the torque tube attaches to the universal joint cover on the back of the transmission.
Step 4 - Break the lug nuts loose on the rear wheels.
Step 5 - Jack up the rear of the car (high enough to put your jack stands on the frame in front of the rear wheels)
Step 6 - Remove the cotter pins and nuts on the rear spring U-Bolts, disconnect rear shocks and brake rods.
Step 7 - Disconnect speedometer cable.
Step 8 - Jack the rear end up on the differential, remove both wheels (I never had a lift and removed the wheels so the rear end could go to the floor and roll on the brake drums and the car wouldn't have to be lifted so high)
Step 9 - Lower the jack with the rear end on it and have your neighbor hold a sling on the front of the torque tube as you roll it backwards off the U-joint. (To keep it from crashing to the floor) Lower it down to the floor.)
Step 10 - Unbolt the transmission from the bell housing to remove the transmission, pressure plate clutch and throw out bearing. (This comes out the top, where the seat use to be)
Step 11 - Put new parts in and reverse the order of these instructions.
If I missed any steps, the other members of this thread can add to them.

1934 Ford's since 1972

39 Ken

11-07-2015 @ 4:27 AM

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This is a good project to learn about your car if you do the job yourself. If you do it yourself or opt to
have someone do it for you, be aware that the clutch
and pressure plate replacements are China made
and in my opinion, are useless. Send your old clutch
parts to Fort Wayne Clutch, in Ft. Wayne, Indiana.
They will rebuild yours and return same to you. If a quick turn around is required, they will send one already completed and ready to go. Call them to discuss their service and product before you go ahead with your project. I'm not affiliated, just a happy customer as are many others. Ken

TomO

11-07-2015 @ 7:46 AM

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Additional steps

Step 7A - Remove the rear motor mounts and jack up the transmission enough to give access to the lower universal bolts and remove all 6 of the universal joint bolts.

9A - Using a block of wood on top of the jack, to distribute the weight of the engine, jack up the back of the engine high enough to allow the back of the transmission to clear the floor of the car. The exhaust pipe may have to be loosened also.

10A - send clutch parts to Fort Wayne Clutch
10B - Receive parts back from Fort Wayne Clutch. Block the release fingers on the pressure plate to relieve the pressure on the clutch disc. I use wooden wedges. This step will allow better centering of the disc, prevent warping of the pressure plate and allow even torquing of the pressure plate bolts.
10C - Using an alignment tool, install the clutch disc and pressure plate.
10D - Remove the wedges and then the alignment tool.

The 1939 Time Schedule give 4.2 hours to do this job. This includes .3 hours to bleed the brakes. A modern shop should be able to the job in that time frame or less.

Tom

42wagon

11-07-2015 @ 12:59 PM

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Tom
Just a couple of things to add. If a modern garage has never seen a 36 Ford there is a learning curve involved that will add time to the project. You say to send the parts out to have the disk relined. Once again your modern garage cannot tie up the lift for the time this is going to take. Flatfoot wants to replace the pilot bearing. This is going to take a tool to pull it out of the flywheel and a tool to put it back in. You mention the use of an alignment tool for the clutch plate. Nice tool to have if you can find one. Back in the good old days we used the front shaft out of a discarded transmission.

Otherwise I agree with your procedure completely.
42 Wagon

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