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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Charge for clutch replace

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Discussion Topic: Charge for clutch replace -- page: 1 2

trjford8

11-09-2015 @ 1:46 PM

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In addition to the jack stands I would also put some wood blocks under the frame. Jack stands are great, but for added safety use the wood blocks. I live in earth quake country and you can never be to safe.

1934 Ford

11-08-2015 @ 12:47 PM

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Note: A funny story about the first time I did this procedure back in 1973.
I was a 27 year old insurance adjuster with my first 1934 Ford hobby restoration. The car made a clunking sound in the area of the universal joint. I thought replacing the U-Joint was the answer to my clunking. I did all the steps I outlined before and got it all back together, only to drive it and still have the clunking sound like bad U-Joint. !#@%%^*(Y@

Now what?

Scroll down

I was stumped.

Scroll down

Know what it was? I didn't !

I started it up and drove it over to a real old fashioned Ford mechanic's house to ask for help. Russ Blevins was out side when I drove up. He said "I heard you coming!"

Know yet?, I was clueless.

He said, "Did you put the inner universal housing cap back in when you re-assembled the car?"

I said, "I put back all the parts I took out, what's that look like?"

He then walked in is garage and took an inner universal house cap off a nail and gave it to me, "This will cure your noise"

Because I never had one in the car when I bought it before my restoration, I never noticed that is was missing. One of those life lessons, learned the hard way.

1934 Ford's since 1972

carcrazy

11-08-2015 @ 10:45 AM

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Charlie is correct. Filling the pilot bearing and the space behind it with chassis lube and inserting an old trans. input shaft or similar sized shaft (or wooden dowel) into the opening and applying a few hammer blows to the shaft will pop the pilot bearing out.

CharlieStephens

11-08-2015 @ 10:20 AM

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I may be missing something here, please tell me if I am, but I thought you could remove the pilot bearing by filling the hole with grease, inserting a shaft that is a snug fit (like an old transmission input gear) in the hole and striking it with a hammer. The pressure of the grease pushes the bearing out. Maybe that just works for pilot bushings but it is worth a try.

Charlie Stephens

11-08-2015 @ 10:19 AM

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Good points, JM....

11-08-2015 @ 10:16 AM

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Hmmm...no one mentioned the fact that the flywheel may need to be removed for resurfacing. If this needs to be done, you have a whole new ballgame on that 5 hours or less time allotment that was mentioned. Usually, the oil pan has to be removed to get the flywheel out of the bell housing area, unless you happen to have a two piece truck oil pan or an 8ba type engine with a separate removable bell housing. Over the years of working on these old Fords, I would rather remove the engine to get the oil pan off rather than trying to do this with the engine in the vehical. This has lead me to the procedure of just removing the engine from the get go, and leave the rear and transmission in place, with something supporting the transmission. Many of the reports about having clutch chatter after installing a new clutch and pressure plate is directly related to failing to properly resurface the flywheel. To do this job correctly, I think doing it in less than five hours is unrealistic. JMO

John

ps...with the flywheel removed, removing/replacing the pilot bearing becomes a pressing operation.
Also, if a ball bearing type pilot bearing is used, make sure it has high temperature grease in the ball area, and a seal on front and back. Open or shielded ball bearings do not last long in this application.

This message was edited by JM on 11-8-15 @ 10:40 AM

deluxe40

11-08-2015 @ 9:22 AM

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First-timers might want to allow more than the allotted five hours for this job. The first one we did back in '57 took several weeks. Of course we were working with crescent wrenches, bumper and scissor jacks and the "Fix Your Ford" book from the local library. Nevertheless, take time to keep it safe. That's a lot of weight you will have up in the air while you are tugging and pushing on the rear end.

11-08-2015 @ 9:07 AM

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!934 Ford & TomO - Thanks for posting the procedure. This is a good thread to print and save for future reference....

cliftford

11-07-2015 @ 3:22 PM

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If you can't find an old shaft for alignment, [any one from model A through 48 will work], Mac's and other suppliers sell them for about $4.00. To remove the pilot bearing you need a slide hammer puller with inside jaws or a seal hook. To install it, use a socket with an OD slightly smaller than the bearing OD and drive it in with a soft hammer.

42wagon

11-07-2015 @ 12:59 PM

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Tom
Just a couple of things to add. If a modern garage has never seen a 36 Ford there is a learning curve involved that will add time to the project. You say to send the parts out to have the disk relined. Once again your modern garage cannot tie up the lift for the time this is going to take. Flatfoot wants to replace the pilot bearing. This is going to take a tool to pull it out of the flywheel and a tool to put it back in. You mention the use of an alignment tool for the clutch plate. Nice tool to have if you can find one. Back in the good old days we used the front shaft out of a discarded transmission.

Otherwise I agree with your procedure completely.
42 Wagon

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