| flatfoot | -- 11-04-2015 @ 4:42 PM |
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What would be a fair charge in Calif. to replace a clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, complete for just labor. Car is '36 Ford fordor. Stock transfer closed driveline. Anybody want to give ballpark figure. Labor @$90 an hour.
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| kubes40 | -- 11-04-2015 @ 4:54 PM |
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If the place knows what they are doing, that's an easy task in five hours or less. If they don't, perhaps you may want to look elsewhere.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 11-05-2015 @ 5:10 PM |
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I agree, that 5 hours is plenty of time for a hobbiest to do that work, excluding other problems. However we tend to expect more from professionals. If they have to figure it out, you shouldn't have to pay $90.00 for their learning experience. Good luck, Paul 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| CharlieStephens | -- 11-05-2015 @ 8:58 PM |
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If they can't give you an estimate before they start it probably means they haven't done it before. Find someone that has done it before. Post your general location here and on fordbarn.com and ask for recommendations. Also ask for recommendations from your local V8 club members. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 11-5-15 @ 8:59 PM
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 11-06-2015 @ 6:45 AM |
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I don't know guy's, I think if it's a shop who has employees that have never seen an old Ford with a torque tube it might be an issue. Sure most of us on this site have done this job but most of the mechanics I have seen lately wouldn't know where to start. Pull the rear back? Remove all the front end sheet metal? I agree with Charlie and would find a few V-8ers and offer to take them and their wives to dinner or something or offer to pay them. Before you do anything flatfoot do your homework!
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| MG | -- 11-06-2015 @ 9:19 AM |
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Lets see someone post the step-by-step procedure on how to do this clutch job without pulling the engine.... Step 1 - Step 2 - Step 3 - Step 4 - etc. etc. etc.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 11-06-2015 @ 12:50 PM |
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These are the steps I've been using for over 40 years. Step 1 - Remove the front seat if you can (Makes a lot easier) Step 2 - Remove the front floor mat an transmission cover. Step 3 - Take the 4 bolts out of where the torque tube attaches to the universal joint cover on the back of the transmission. Step 4 - Break the lug nuts loose on the rear wheels. Step 5 - Jack up the rear of the car (high enough to put your jack stands on the frame in front of the rear wheels) Step 6 - Remove the cotter pins and nuts on the rear spring U-Bolts, disconnect rear shocks and brake rods. Step 7 - Disconnect speedometer cable. Step 8 - Jack the rear end up on the differential, remove both wheels (I never had a lift and removed the wheels so the rear end could go to the floor and roll on the brake drums and the car wouldn't have to be lifted so high) Step 9 - Lower the jack with the rear end on it and have your neighbor hold a sling on the front of the torque tube as you roll it backwards off the U-joint. (To keep it from crashing to the floor) Lower it down to the floor.) Step 10 - Unbolt the transmission from the bell housing to remove the transmission, pressure plate clutch and throw out bearing. (This comes out the top, where the seat use to be) Step 11 - Put new parts in and reverse the order of these instructions. If I missed any steps, the other members of this thread can add to them. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| 39 Ken | -- 11-07-2015 @ 4:27 AM |
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This is a good project to learn about your car if you do the job yourself. If you do it yourself or opt to have someone do it for you, be aware that the clutch and pressure plate replacements are China made and in my opinion, are useless. Send your old clutch parts to Fort Wayne Clutch, in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. They will rebuild yours and return same to you. If a quick turn around is required, they will send one already completed and ready to go. Call them to discuss their service and product before you go ahead with your project. I'm not affiliated, just a happy customer as are many others. Ken
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| TomO | -- 11-07-2015 @ 7:46 AM |
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Additional steps Step 7A - Remove the rear motor mounts and jack up the transmission enough to give access to the lower universal bolts and remove all 6 of the universal joint bolts. 9A - Using a block of wood on top of the jack, to distribute the weight of the engine, jack up the back of the engine high enough to allow the back of the transmission to clear the floor of the car. The exhaust pipe may have to be loosened also. 10A - send clutch parts to Fort Wayne Clutch 10B - Receive parts back from Fort Wayne Clutch. Block the release fingers on the pressure plate to relieve the pressure on the clutch disc. I use wooden wedges. This step will allow better centering of the disc, prevent warping of the pressure plate and allow even torquing of the pressure plate bolts. 10C - Using an alignment tool, install the clutch disc and pressure plate. 10D - Remove the wedges and then the alignment tool. The 1939 Time Schedule give 4.2 hours to do this job. This includes .3 hours to bleed the brakes. A modern shop should be able to the job in that time frame or less. Tom
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| 42wagon | -- 11-07-2015 @ 12:59 PM |
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Tom Just a couple of things to add. If a modern garage has never seen a 36 Ford there is a learning curve involved that will add time to the project. You say to send the parts out to have the disk relined. Once again your modern garage cannot tie up the lift for the time this is going to take. Flatfoot wants to replace the pilot bearing. This is going to take a tool to pull it out of the flywheel and a tool to put it back in. You mention the use of an alignment tool for the clutch plate. Nice tool to have if you can find one. Back in the good old days we used the front shaft out of a discarded transmission. Otherwise I agree with your procedure completely. 42 Wagon
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| cliftford | -- 11-07-2015 @ 3:22 PM |
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If you can't find an old shaft for alignment, [any one from model A through 48 will work], Mac's and other suppliers sell them for about $4.00. To remove the pilot bearing you need a slide hammer puller with inside jaws or a seal hook. To install it, use a socket with an OD slightly smaller than the bearing OD and drive it in with a soft hammer.
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| MG | -- 11-08-2015 @ 9:07 AM |
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!934 Ford & TomO - Thanks for posting the procedure. This is a good thread to print and save for future reference....
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| deluxe40 | -- 11-08-2015 @ 9:22 AM |
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First-timers might want to allow more than the allotted five hours for this job. The first one we did back in '57 took several weeks. Of course we were working with crescent wrenches, bumper and scissor jacks and the "Fix Your Ford" book from the local library. Nevertheless, take time to keep it safe. That's a lot of weight you will have up in the air while you are tugging and pushing on the rear end.
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| JM | -- 11-08-2015 @ 10:16 AM |
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Hmmm...no one mentioned the fact that the flywheel may need to be removed for resurfacing. If this needs to be done, you have a whole new ballgame on that 5 hours or less time allotment that was mentioned. Usually, the oil pan has to be removed to get the flywheel out of the bell housing area, unless you happen to have a two piece truck oil pan or an 8ba type engine with a separate removable bell housing. Over the years of working on these old Fords, I would rather remove the engine to get the oil pan off rather than trying to do this with the engine in the vehical. This has lead me to the procedure of just removing the engine from the get go, and leave the rear and transmission in place, with something supporting the transmission. Many of the reports about having clutch chatter after installing a new clutch and pressure plate is directly related to failing to properly resurface the flywheel. To do this job correctly, I think doing it in less than five hours is unrealistic. JMO John ps...with the flywheel removed, removing/replacing the pilot bearing becomes a pressing operation. Also, if a ball bearing type pilot bearing is used, make sure it has high temperature grease in the ball area, and a seal on front and back. Open or shielded ball bearings do not last long in this application. This message was edited by JM on 11-8-15 @ 10:40 AM
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| MG | -- 11-08-2015 @ 10:19 AM |
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Good points, JM....
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| CharlieStephens | -- 11-08-2015 @ 10:20 AM |
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I may be missing something here, please tell me if I am, but I thought you could remove the pilot bearing by filling the hole with grease, inserting a shaft that is a snug fit (like an old transmission input gear) in the hole and striking it with a hammer. The pressure of the grease pushes the bearing out. Maybe that just works for pilot bushings but it is worth a try. Charlie Stephens
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| carcrazy | -- 11-08-2015 @ 10:45 AM |
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Charlie is correct. Filling the pilot bearing and the space behind it with chassis lube and inserting an old trans. input shaft or similar sized shaft (or wooden dowel) into the opening and applying a few hammer blows to the shaft will pop the pilot bearing out.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 11-08-2015 @ 12:47 PM |
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Note: A funny story about the first time I did this procedure back in 1973. I was a 27 year old insurance adjuster with my first 1934 Ford hobby restoration. The car made a clunking sound in the area of the universal joint. I thought replacing the U-Joint was the answer to my clunking. I did all the steps I outlined before and got it all back together, only to drive it and still have the clunking sound like bad U-Joint. !#@%%^*(Y@ Now what? Scroll down I was stumped. Scroll down Know what it was? I didn't ! I started it up and drove it over to a real old fashioned Ford mechanic's house to ask for help. Russ Blevins was out side when I drove up. He said "I heard you coming!" Know yet?, I was clueless. He said, "Did you put the inner universal housing cap back in when you re-assembled the car?" I said, "I put back all the parts I took out, what's that look like?" He then walked in is garage and took an inner universal house cap off a nail and gave it to me, "This will cure your noise" Because I never had one in the car when I bought it before my restoration, I never noticed that is was missing. One of those life lessons, learned the hard way. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| trjford8 | -- 11-09-2015 @ 1:46 PM |
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In addition to the jack stands I would also put some wood blocks under the frame. Jack stands are great, but for added safety use the wood blocks. I live in earth quake country and you can never be to safe.
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