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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Head removal procedure

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Head removal procedure -- page: 1 2     1936TWC 09-20-2013 @ 11:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 I have aluminum heads on my stock 1936 motor. What is the correct procedure for removal? Thanks supereal 09-20-2013 @ 11:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Drain the block and take off the head stud nuts. If the head lifts off, even with some "persuasion", you are very lucky. It is more likely that the head is firmly attached to the studs due to galvanic corrosion. In that case, it is very likely the head will be damaged if prying is attempted. There is a special hole saw that we have used that fits over the stud but, even then,some damage may result. Years ago, many "shade tree" mechanics would thread rope into the combustion chamber thru the spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine to have the pistons push up enough to break the bond. Unless you have some pressing reason to pull the heads, they are better left alone. I'd be looking for a set of iron heads. 1936TWC 09-20-2013 @ 12:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 I have been having a coolant in the head area; driver side. I retourqed everything to specs but experience leaks. I have been reading on this site that my heads may need resurfacing. This has been a ongoing issue. The motor was rebuilt in 2005 and has only 200 miles on it. I did notice corrosion build in the water pump, if that is relevant to the problem. If I cannot remove the heads and I am really at a standstill. Thanks for the reply supereal 09-20-2013 @ 1:28 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Is your coolant leak at the perimeter of the head, or around one of the studs? Seeing corrosion in any part of a cooling system is a very bad sign, usually because an ineffective or incorrect inhibitor or coolant was used. Today, with aluminum blocks, heads, and radiators common, these products are numerous, and can be brand specific. Before you try to remove the offending head, I'd try a really good stop leak, such as Barr's. Today's aluminum comes in multiple formulations, something that wasn't true years ago. Henry Ford was intent on using aluminum, but got ahead of the alloys necessary for extended use. That is one reason for the switch back to cast iron heads. 1936TWC 09-23-2013 @ 5:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 The leak is sround the perimeter of the head; drivers side. I looked inside the water pump and there was some scale buildup. I tried one bootle of Barrs already. Should I retorque everything and start over? When you add Barrs, how do you do it? supereal 09-23-2013 @ 7:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If one bottle of Barr's didn't stop the leak, the head will have to come off. As you say the engine was rebuilt in 2005, and hardly run after that time, I suspect the leaking head was damaged when installed, probably by being pried off. We resurface all heads before returning to service, but aluminum heads are usually badly corroded, making machining difficult or impossible. The best solution is to locate a set of iron heads and have them resurfaced, then installed with good quality gaskets. Be sure to inspect the block deck for prying damage, as well before installing the heads. 1936TWC 09-25-2013 @ 11:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 I would like to run this by you. The car came from the Southwest and it is Northern Minnesota. Everything was fine until it got very cold. My garage is well insulated but unheated. So maybe the seal was affected by the cold weather. Guessing. I will try Barrs one more time and hope it works. Thanks for your replies. MG 09-25-2013 @ 11:45 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1254 Joined: Nov 2009 "Very cold" in Northern Minnesota is more like very nasty unbearable block-cracking cold elsewhere. Did you have anti-freeze in the cooling system during that cold snap? Does the engine run well? Any water in the oil? This message was edited by MG on 9-25-13 @ 11:53 AM 1936TWC 09-25-2013 @ 1:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 82 Joined: Oct 2009 Antifreeze was mixed for -35 below.I have another flathead without any problems. I previously added a bottle of Barrs and will try again before I attempt to remove the heads. I hope it works. MG 09-25-2013 @ 5:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1254 Joined: Nov 2009 Be sure you read the label on the Barr's as to the capacity of the cooling system it will treat. Remember, flatheads have a 20+ quart capacity.....

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