| 1936TWC | -- 09-20-2013 @ 11:07 AM |
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I have aluminum heads on my stock 1936 motor. What is the correct procedure for removal? Thanks
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2013 @ 11:32 AM |
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Drain the block and take off the head stud nuts. If the head lifts off, even with some "persuasion", you are very lucky. It is more likely that the head is firmly attached to the studs due to galvanic corrosion. In that case, it is very likely the head will be damaged if prying is attempted. There is a special hole saw that we have used that fits over the stud but, even then,some damage may result. Years ago, many "shade tree" mechanics would thread rope into the combustion chamber thru the spark plug hole, and then rotate the engine to have the pistons push up enough to break the bond. Unless you have some pressing reason to pull the heads, they are better left alone. I'd be looking for a set of iron heads.
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| 1936TWC | -- 09-20-2013 @ 12:20 PM |
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I have been having a coolant in the head area; driver side. I retourqed everything to specs but experience leaks. I have been reading on this site that my heads may need resurfacing. This has been a ongoing issue. The motor was rebuilt in 2005 and has only 200 miles on it. I did notice corrosion build in the water pump, if that is relevant to the problem. If I cannot remove the heads and I am really at a standstill. Thanks for the reply
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| supereal | -- 09-20-2013 @ 1:28 PM |
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Is your coolant leak at the perimeter of the head, or around one of the studs? Seeing corrosion in any part of a cooling system is a very bad sign, usually because an ineffective or incorrect inhibitor or coolant was used. Today, with aluminum blocks, heads, and radiators common, these products are numerous, and can be brand specific. Before you try to remove the offending head, I'd try a really good stop leak, such as Barr's. Today's aluminum comes in multiple formulations, something that wasn't true years ago. Henry Ford was intent on using aluminum, but got ahead of the alloys necessary for extended use. That is one reason for the switch back to cast iron heads.
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| 1936TWC | -- 09-23-2013 @ 5:20 PM |
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The leak is sround the perimeter of the head; drivers side. I looked inside the water pump and there was some scale buildup. I tried one bootle of Barrs already. Should I retorque everything and start over? When you add Barrs, how do you do it?
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| supereal | -- 09-23-2013 @ 7:17 PM |
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If one bottle of Barr's didn't stop the leak, the head will have to come off. As you say the engine was rebuilt in 2005, and hardly run after that time, I suspect the leaking head was damaged when installed, probably by being pried off. We resurface all heads before returning to service, but aluminum heads are usually badly corroded, making machining difficult or impossible. The best solution is to locate a set of iron heads and have them resurfaced, then installed with good quality gaskets. Be sure to inspect the block deck for prying damage, as well before installing the heads.
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| 1936TWC | -- 09-25-2013 @ 11:23 AM |
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I would like to run this by you. The car came from the Southwest and it is Northern Minnesota. Everything was fine until it got very cold. My garage is well insulated but unheated. So maybe the seal was affected by the cold weather. Guessing. I will try Barrs one more time and hope it works. Thanks for your replies.
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| MG | -- 09-25-2013 @ 11:45 AM |
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"Very cold" in Northern Minnesota is more like very nasty unbearable block-cracking cold elsewhere. Did you have anti-freeze in the cooling system during that cold snap? Does the engine run well? Any water in the oil? This message was edited by MG on 9-25-13 @ 11:53 AM
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| 1936TWC | -- 09-25-2013 @ 1:37 PM |
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Antifreeze was mixed for -35 below.I have another flathead without any problems. I previously added a bottle of Barrs and will try again before I attempt to remove the heads. I hope it works.
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| MG | -- 09-25-2013 @ 5:16 PM |
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Be sure you read the label on the Barr's as to the capacity of the cooling system it will treat. Remember, flatheads have a 20+ quart capacity.....
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| 40 Coupe | -- 09-26-2013 @ 4:35 AM |
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Did you retorque the head, to see if the water leak stops? This is standard procedure for the first 1,000 miles. I have seen the base of 4 old spark plugs with nuts welded to the top of each and threaded rod in the nuts. Insert the plugs into the four spark plug holes. Then with a flat steel plate over the studs with four holes for the threaded studs, use nuts on the threaded rods and apply even pressure to the nuts trying to start the head off the block, the hardest part is to get the head to start to move.
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| JM | -- 09-26-2013 @ 9:45 AM |
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I've never tried this but have heard others mention this method. Leave all spark plugs in heads. Loosen all the nuts on the head studs and thread them away from the head about 1/4". With the ignition off, crank the engine for a few seconds. Sometimes this will loosen them up. I have also heard some folks say they actually start the engine with the head nuts loose and let it run until things get warm and this will loosen the heads John This message was edited by JM on 9-26-13 @ 9:49 AM
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| 1936TWC | -- 09-30-2013 @ 1:12 PM |
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Thanks MG. I only used one bottle. Could you give me a rundown on how you would do it? Let engine idle in garage? Add more Barrs as required? Thanks again.
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| MG | -- 09-30-2013 @ 4:37 PM |
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I just follow the instructions on the label. The most important thing to do is re-torque the heads. Aluminum heads have to be re-torqued cold. See: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm Are your heads original from 1936 or are they newer reproduced heads like those from Kearney Foundry/Pattern Works in San Jose, CA. The newer aluminum heads can take a higher torque due to improved metallurgy. I torque the Kearney heads on my '34 to 50 ft lbs.
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| jimbohoh | -- 10-01-2013 @ 7:31 AM |
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I am also looking at replacing the head gaskets on a 1933 Ford V8 with aluminum heads do to coolant leaks. What type of gasket is the best? I have seen copper, steel clad, and composite gaskets all listed for sale. I don't want to cheap out on such an important part.
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| 1936TWC | -- 10-01-2013 @ 11:26 AM |
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Reproduction or original heads. I do not know. Is there any identification process that would reveal its origin?
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| MG | -- 10-01-2013 @ 4:46 PM |
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@jimbohoh - I recommend the gaskets as seen here: http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod-parts/flathead-ford-performance/gaskets/graphite-head-gasket-set-1932-38-21-stud.html or BEST #507 Gasket - http://bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=507G @ 1936TWC - My Kearney aluminum heads are different from the originals in that they only show the Ford part numbers (40-6049 & 40-6050 with a '2' in a circle) and no 'Ford' logo. Original heads usually had a 'A' or 'A1' after the part number and some had the 'Ford' logo. The first two digits of the part number on the heads of your '36 engine may be different than on my '34. Otherwise, the '34 and '36 heads are identical.... This message was edited by MG on 10-1-13 @ 5:24 PM
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