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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Head removal procedure

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Discussion Topic: Head removal procedure -- page: 1 2

10-01-2013 @ 4:46 PM

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@jimbohoh - I recommend the gaskets as seen here:

http://www.honestcharley.com/hot-rod-parts/flathead-ford-performance/gaskets/graphite-head-gasket-set-1932-38-21-stud.html or
BEST #507 Gasket - http://bestgasket.com/pop_up_picture.asp?PartNumber=507G

@ 1936TWC - My Kearney aluminum heads are different from the originals in that they only show the Ford part numbers (40-6049 & 40-6050 with a '2' in a circle) and no 'Ford' logo. Original heads usually had a 'A' or 'A1' after the part number and some had the 'Ford' logo. The first two digits of the part number on the heads of your '36 engine may be different than on my '34. Otherwise, the '34 and '36 heads are identical....

This message was edited by MG on 10-1-13 @ 5:24 PM

1936TWC

10-01-2013 @ 11:26 AM

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Reproduction or original heads. I do not know. Is there any identification process that would reveal its
origin?

jimbohoh

10-01-2013 @ 7:31 AM

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I am also looking at replacing the head gaskets on a 1933 Ford V8 with aluminum heads do to coolant leaks. What type of gasket is the best? I have seen copper, steel clad, and composite gaskets all listed for sale. I don't want to cheap out on such an important part.

09-30-2013 @ 4:37 PM

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I just follow the instructions on the label. The most important thing to do is re-torque the heads. Aluminum heads have to be re-torqued cold. See: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_cylinderhead_torque-specs.htm

Are your heads original from 1936 or are they newer reproduced heads like those from Kearney Foundry/Pattern Works in San Jose, CA. The newer aluminum heads can take a higher torque due to improved metallurgy. I torque the Kearney heads on my '34 to 50 ft lbs.

1936TWC

09-30-2013 @ 1:12 PM

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Thanks MG. I only used one bottle. Could you give me a rundown on how you would do it? Let engine idle in garage? Add more Barrs as required? Thanks again.

09-26-2013 @ 9:45 AM

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I've never tried this but have heard others mention this method.
Leave all spark plugs in heads. Loosen all the nuts on the head studs and thread them away from the head about 1/4". With the ignition off, crank the engine for a few seconds. Sometimes this will loosen them up. I have also heard some folks say they actually start the engine with the head nuts loose and let it run until things get warm and this will loosen the heads

John

This message was edited by JM on 9-26-13 @ 9:49 AM

40 Coupe

09-26-2013 @ 4:35 AM

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Did you retorque the head, to see if the water leak stops? This is standard procedure for the first 1,000 miles. I have seen the base of 4 old spark plugs with nuts welded to the top of each and threaded rod in the nuts. Insert the plugs into the four spark plug holes. Then with a flat steel plate over the studs with four holes for the threaded studs, use nuts on the threaded rods and apply even pressure to the nuts trying to start the head off the block, the hardest part is to get the head to start to move.

09-25-2013 @ 5:16 PM

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Be sure you read the label on the Barr's as to the capacity of the cooling system it will treat. Remember, flatheads have a 20+ quart capacity.....

1936TWC

09-25-2013 @ 1:37 PM

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Antifreeze was mixed for -35 below.I have another flathead without any problems. I previously added a bottle of Barrs and will try again before I attempt to
remove the heads. I hope it works.

09-25-2013 @ 11:45 AM

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"Very cold" in Northern Minnesota is more like very nasty unbearable block-cracking cold elsewhere. Did you have anti-freeze in the cooling system during that cold snap? Does the engine run well? Any water in the oil?

This message was edited by MG on 9-25-13 @ 11:53 AM

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