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Posted By Discussion Topic: Cooling System re-hab -- page: 1 2     tedbill 03-30-2013 @ 10:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Mar 2013 Wondering if someone can help me identify my water pumps so I can buy replacements. I have a 34 Ford, but I know it is not the original engine so I'm trying to be careful I get the right thing. It has both a left and a right pump. One is marked with a 3004, the other is marked with a 3006. Both have a capital "A" stamped near the numbers. The valve covers have a "59 A-B" stamped on them. Can anyone give me guidance on what pumps I need to buy, and suggest where to buy them? Thank you in advance! JM 03-30-2013 @ 2:18 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 If you have a 59 series ('46-'48) engine it would use the water pumps made for '37 to '48 Flathead engines. I am not sure if the numbers you mention are correct for '37-'48 pumps but if they are original pumps for those years they would have a 78 prefix in front of the number on the casting. Most of the big parts suppliers like Drake, Carpenter, MAC's and Speedway now carry reproduction pumps like you need, however, I prefer to send good original core pumps to Skip Haney and have him rebuild them and use his high flow impellers for improved cooling. JM JM 03-30-2013 @ 2:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Remove duplicate post JM This message was edited by JM on 3-30-13 @ 2:22 PM deuce_roadster 03-30-2013 @ 4:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 Never really thought of them that way but I guess they are "valve covers"!! supereal 03-30-2013 @ 7:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If you have water pumps in the heads, with block off plates low on the front of the block, you have a late '37 or later engine. A 59AB engine will have 24 head studs on each side. I would opt for the new style turbine pumps, in any case. C&G, Drake, and others sell them. They increase coolant flow, always a good thing with a flathead. JM 03-31-2013 @ 6:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, what defines a late '37 engine vs. early '37? I believe if he has '37 to early '38 he would have a 21 stud engine that could use '32-'36 heads with pumps and block off plates. Mid '38 and later would have 24 studs per head. If he has 59, 59A, or 59AB on heads, that should be a 24 stud engine. JM tedbill 03-31-2013 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Mar 2013 Thanks for all the feedback! For what it is worth, there are 24 bolt heads on both sides of the engine. I reached out to Skip Haney, I think I'll try that route first and see how it goes. One follow up question, looking at the engine where the water pumps should be, I'm seeing rust inside the water channels. Not bad, just surface rust. Besides preping the sealing surface, should I do anything else to the coolant channels before installing the rebuilt pumps? Thanks again for all the advice! supereal 03-31-2013 @ 11:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 JM: The poster said his engine was in a '34, but was vague and/or incorrect about just what he had. When we see a late engine in an earlier car, it raises questions about just what is there. The pump-in-head type were used until early '37 due to the usual Ford policy of using up existing stock, so some early '37s carried the early pumps. He mentions the number 3004/6 on his pumps, but the "family" number for Ford pumps is 8500. He then clarified the matter by stating that the heads were marked "59". After Ford issued the front pump type block as a "service" replacement, they were often fitted with the earlier type heads to preserve appearance and address the matter of front motor mounts if they were 21 stud type. Over the years. I've seen some pretty inventive "mix and match" Fords. He didn't state until later that he has 24 studs per side, and that does help pin down the answer. As for rust in the water jacket, there isn't much that can be done with the engine in the car. Anything stong enough to attack rust can destroy other parts of the system. When we do a rebuild, we boil the block and probe the jacket for core sand and loose rust, but cast iron does rust, particularly if plain water was used as a coolant without adding a rust inhibitor. Backflushing is mostly ineffective. 47Fordor 03-31-2013 @ 12:57 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Oct 2009 supereal: I have a question in reference to "When we do a rebuild, we... probe the jacket for core sand and loose rust". I've heard of this before but was wondering what is normally used for the process. It sounds like something that could be done with a coat hanger but maybe I'm over-simplifying it. My engine is on a stand, sans heads and oil pan, waiting for me to come up with the $$ to get it somewhere to be boiled. Chris JM 03-31-2013 @ 1:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, he did state in his first message that "valve covers" meaning heads had "59 A-B" on them which = 24 studs. I have never heard of or seen a '36 85HP engine used in the production of a '37 passenger car built in the USA. But, with over 800,000 passenger cars built during the '37 model year, in 17 factories and assembly plants, anything was possible. JM This message was edited by JM on 3-31-13 @ 2:36 PM

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