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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Cooling System re-hab

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Cooling System re-hab -- page: 1 2     drkbp 04-01-2013 @ 8:51 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 Can't say that I ever saw an early ('32 to '36) 21 stud engine in a 1937 or later flat head car. However, I know most of you guys have seen many more V8's than I have. Most of the time it is a '37 or later engine in a '32 to '36 car. I guess it is mostly due to being easier to find and rebuild the '37 21 stud + block off plates + add the pump in head. The only way to make an early car look correct. If you're not that concerned about whether it looks correct then the 24 stud is the way to go. The other way around defeats the improvement of inserts and superior cooling that was the object of putting the pumps in the front of the block in the first place. I'm with JM on this one. Doubt that Ford would have made such a factory installation but no telling what happened under the old shade tree in the last 75 years. <grin> On the cleaning issue, I just washed out my '35 engine when I put in two new thermostats and changed the front left motor mount several weeks ago. I painted that motor mount in 1975 and the paint is still on it inside. I had some rusty water that came out of the engine but not much else. I keep some antifreeze in it and drove it to the office today. Ken in Texas TomO 04-01-2013 @ 7:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 I found that a 3/16" wire cable used with an electric drill will get into most of the nooks and crannies and loosen the crud. I ran the drill in reverse to unwind the end of the cable giving it a brush effect. Tom deuce_roadster 03-31-2013 @ 10:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 Before I rebuild an engine I run the block (and if cast iron, the heads too) through a Redi-Strip process and what you get back is as clean as it could possibly be inside and out. NEVER had a problem with overheating with any engine I Redi-Stripped. If you have an engine completely apart and have a Redi-Strip franchise near you it is money well spent. My 2c. supereal 03-31-2013 @ 9:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Coat hanger wire is OK. We also use several long brushes designed primarily for cleaning oil galleries. We use a short piece of electrical "fish tape" in a drill if the deposits are severe. If the engine has been run recently, cleaning isn't usually a big deal. If the block came from salvage, or sat for a long time, it is necessary. Our hot tank will remove most of the crud, in most cases. JM 03-31-2013 @ 2:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 . This message was edited by JM on 3-31-13 @ 2:13 PM JM 03-31-2013 @ 1:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, he did state in his first message that "valve covers" meaning heads had "59 A-B" on them which = 24 studs. I have never heard of or seen a '36 85HP engine used in the production of a '37 passenger car built in the USA. But, with over 800,000 passenger cars built during the '37 model year, in 17 factories and assembly plants, anything was possible. JM This message was edited by JM on 3-31-13 @ 2:36 PM 47Fordor 03-31-2013 @ 12:57 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Oct 2009 supereal: I have a question in reference to "When we do a rebuild, we... probe the jacket for core sand and loose rust". I've heard of this before but was wondering what is normally used for the process. It sounds like something that could be done with a coat hanger but maybe I'm over-simplifying it. My engine is on a stand, sans heads and oil pan, waiting for me to come up with the $$ to get it somewhere to be boiled. Chris supereal 03-31-2013 @ 11:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 JM: The poster said his engine was in a '34, but was vague and/or incorrect about just what he had. When we see a late engine in an earlier car, it raises questions about just what is there. The pump-in-head type were used until early '37 due to the usual Ford policy of using up existing stock, so some early '37s carried the early pumps. He mentions the number 3004/6 on his pumps, but the "family" number for Ford pumps is 8500. He then clarified the matter by stating that the heads were marked "59". After Ford issued the front pump type block as a "service" replacement, they were often fitted with the earlier type heads to preserve appearance and address the matter of front motor mounts if they were 21 stud type. Over the years. I've seen some pretty inventive "mix and match" Fords. He didn't state until later that he has 24 studs per side, and that does help pin down the answer. As for rust in the water jacket, there isn't much that can be done with the engine in the car. Anything stong enough to attack rust can destroy other parts of the system. When we do a rebuild, we boil the block and probe the jacket for core sand and loose rust, but cast iron does rust, particularly if plain water was used as a coolant without adding a rust inhibitor. Backflushing is mostly ineffective. tedbill 03-31-2013 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Mar 2013 Thanks for all the feedback! For what it is worth, there are 24 bolt heads on both sides of the engine. I reached out to Skip Haney, I think I'll try that route first and see how it goes. One follow up question, looking at the engine where the water pumps should be, I'm seeing rust inside the water channels. Not bad, just surface rust. Besides preping the sealing surface, should I do anything else to the coolant channels before installing the rebuilt pumps? Thanks again for all the advice! JM 03-31-2013 @ 6:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, what defines a late '37 engine vs. early '37? I believe if he has '37 to early '38 he would have a 21 stud engine that could use '32-'36 heads with pumps and block off plates. Mid '38 and later would have 24 studs per head. If he has 59, 59A, or 59AB on heads, that should be a 24 stud engine. JM

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