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Discussion Topic:
Engine running rich...1936 Touring Fordor
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DEAN333 |
07-25-2012 @ 7:58 PM
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Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
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I just replaced the spark plugs, engine still running rich....strong gas smell detected by car following me. Equipped with "97" carburetor. Adjusted idle air screws in until engine stall, then backed out about 7/8 turn.
TIM CARLIG
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supereal |
07-25-2012 @ 8:34 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The 97 carb has an " emulsion tube" that must be properly installed and positioned. If not, they will leak internally. It takes a special tool for the job. If you need a drawing of the carb, I can post one.
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40 Coupe |
07-26-2012 @ 4:37 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tim: Has this been a problem or is this something new? The size of the jets in the carburetor is usually stamped into their body. The two main jets for a single 97 should be 45 and the power valve #65.
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DEAN333 |
07-26-2012 @ 7:26 AM
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Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
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I just got the car July 3rd. Cleaned the plugs, they were black,carbon fouled. Took it to a few cruise nights. it got up to 50-55mph but not with authority, after 20 minutes at that speed it losr power and would not run over 40. Subsequently changed the plugs. I have not had it on an extended run bu did drive about 5 miles and it accelerated up to 55-60 with ease. Last night I was told of the smell trailing behind me and it smelled when I pulled into the garage. Looking at the base of the carb it has what appears to be a cylindrical vacuum chamber[??] with a copper line running to the vacuum break on the distributor. There is no vacuum line on this chamber, just a screw in the end. I'm guessing a vacuum line should be there but where do I get the source of vacuum?
TIM CARLIG
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DEAN333 |
07-26-2012 @ 7:28 AM
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Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
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Yes if you can post the pic or drawing. Thanks. It's been 27 years since I last played with Early V8's, retired now and getting back in the game!
TIM CARLIG
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DEAN333 |
07-26-2012 @ 9:31 AM
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Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
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I don't see any ports front or rear of the manifold to draw vacuum......
TIM CARLIG
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supereal |
07-26-2012 @ 10:43 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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OK. I have scanned two pages of Ford servioce bulletins from April, 1938. It will take two posts. Attached is the first.
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supereal |
07-26-2012 @ 10:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here is page two.
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40 Coupe |
07-26-2012 @ 1:02 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
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The source of vacuum for the 36 distributor vacuum advance brake is a steel line running to the LH side of the aluminum intake manifold near the front of the intake and the bolts that bolt the intaake to the top of the block. From what you describe you may have a cast iron intake manifold vintage 1941 where the vacuum line runs to just under the base of the carburetor and is held there by a special hollow bolt that also serves as the source of vacuum for the wiper motor (plugged in your case). There is a hole in the intake for the special bolt and intake manifold vacuum, the bolt is fragile and easy to brake. Post a photo of your engine and the intake manifold. The 32-36 engine has water pumps in the heads and 21 studs,the 37-41 has them bolted to the front of the block and 24 head studs. You can run a Stromberg on the 41 intake, but the original carb was a Holley or Ford 91-99 also known as a 94.
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6lucky13 |
07-26-2012 @ 1:46 PM
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Member
Posts: 57
Joined: Jun 2011
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Tim, Just a minor point. My 36 was running rich as you described. Maybe 7/8 is still too rich. I used the following procedure to get the correct adjustment. First, carefully remove the idle mixture screws and inspect them to make sure they are clean and not damaged. Next reinstall the screws until fully seated, then back off about 3/4 turn open. Turn in until the engine begins roll or stall, then back off. Fine adjustment should be made with the engine warmed up and running at about 500 rpm.
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