Topic: Engine running rich...1936 Touring Fordor


DEAN333    -- 07-25-2012 @ 7:58 PM
  I just replaced the spark plugs, engine still running rich....strong gas smell detected by car following me. Equipped with "97" carburetor. Adjusted idle air screws in until engine stall, then backed out about 7/8 turn.

TIM CARLIG


supereal    -- 07-25-2012 @ 8:34 PM
  The 97 carb has an " emulsion tube" that must be properly installed and positioned. If not, they will leak internally. It takes a special tool for the job. If you need a drawing of the carb, I can post one.


40 Coupe    -- 07-26-2012 @ 4:37 AM
  Tim: Has this been a problem or is this something new? The size of the jets in the carburetor is usually stamped into their body. The two main jets for a single 97 should be 45 and the power valve #65.


DEAN333    -- 07-26-2012 @ 7:26 AM
  I just got the car July 3rd. Cleaned the plugs, they were black,carbon fouled. Took it to a few cruise nights. it got up to 50-55mph but not with authority, after 20 minutes at that speed it losr power and would not run over 40. Subsequently changed the plugs. I have not had it on an extended run bu did drive about 5 miles and it accelerated up to 55-60 with ease. Last night I was told of the smell trailing behind me and it smelled when I pulled into the garage. Looking at the base of the carb it has what appears to be a cylindrical vacuum chamber[??] with a copper line running to the vacuum break on the distributor. There is no vacuum line on this chamber, just a screw in the end. I'm guessing a vacuum line should be there but where do I get the source of vacuum?

TIM CARLIG


DEAN333    -- 07-26-2012 @ 7:28 AM
  Yes if you can post the pic or drawing. Thanks. It's been 27 years since I last played with Early V8's, retired now and getting back in the game!

TIM CARLIG


DEAN333    -- 07-26-2012 @ 9:31 AM
  I don't see any ports front or rear of the manifold to draw vacuum......

TIM CARLIG


supereal    -- 07-26-2012 @ 10:43 AM
  OK. I have scanned two pages of Ford servioce bulletins from April, 1938. It will take two posts. Attached is the first.


supereal    -- 07-26-2012 @ 10:44 AM
  Here is page two.


40 Coupe    -- 07-26-2012 @ 1:02 PM
  The source of vacuum for the 36 distributor vacuum advance brake is a steel line running to the LH side of the aluminum intake manifold near the front of the intake and the bolts that bolt the intaake to the top of the block. From what you describe you may have a cast iron intake manifold vintage 1941 where the vacuum line runs to just under the base of the carburetor and is held there by a special hollow bolt that also serves as the source of vacuum for the wiper motor (plugged in your case). There is a hole in the intake for the special bolt and intake manifold vacuum, the bolt is fragile and easy to brake. Post a photo of your engine and the intake manifold. The 32-36 engine has water pumps in the heads and 21 studs,the 37-41 has them bolted to the front of the block and 24 head studs. You can run a Stromberg on the 41 intake, but the original carb was a Holley or Ford 91-99 also known as a 94.


6lucky13    -- 07-26-2012 @ 1:46 PM
  Tim,

Just a minor point.

My 36 was running rich as you described. Maybe 7/8 is still too rich. I used the following procedure to get the correct adjustment. First, carefully remove the idle mixture screws and inspect them to make sure they are clean and not damaged. Next reinstall the screws until fully seated, then back off about 3/4 turn open. Turn in until the engine begins roll or stall, then back off. Fine adjustment should be made with the engine warmed up and running at about 500 rpm.


DEAN333    -- 07-26-2012 @ 3:49 PM
  I have the 21 stud, water pumps in the heads. You described the setup with the manifold I have. Must be a '41 manifold with the "97" carb.

TIM CARLIG


supereal    -- 07-26-2012 @ 8:28 PM
  The idle screws only affect idle. Above that speed, the main jets provide the fuel flow. We used the 97 for our stock car racing because we could quickly change jet size. For general use, the 94 is considerably more reliable. That is why it replaced earlier carbs.


DEAN333    -- 07-28-2012 @ 5:20 PM
  I adjusted the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge, holds steady at 17-18". I tried retarding the timing a little, advancing it a little, then put it back where it was...about the middle of the degree marks. It still does not idle smooth and leaves a trail of noxous odor to the car following. Any tips Guys??

TIM CARLIG


Oldad    -- 07-28-2012 @ 6:52 PM
  The Stromberg "97" will run rich if the fuel pressure is, in my experience, over 3 psi. The reason being that the small float in the bowl does not exert sufficient pressure to cut off the flow of fuel. I recently had the same problem on a 1937. I put a pressure gauge between the mechanical pump and the carburetor and I got reading well over 3 psi. I put in a pressure regulator and set if for 2 1/2 to 3 psi. Problem solved. The fuel pressure generated by a mechanical pump of the original design is determined by the strength of the internal spring since it is this spring acting on the diaphram that forces the fuel out. It is my belief that we are not getting the same manufacturing precision with foreign made parts that we did in the late thirties.


40 Coupe    -- 07-29-2012 @ 5:31 AM
  Check fuel pressure and carb float level and make sure the fuel inlet valve is steel and not vitron tip. use a leather accelerator pump in the carb and if your going to disassemble the carb, do it all the way, remove the emulsion tubes and check the holes for deformity and blockage. Check the jet and power valve sizes (usually marked on the parts). The Stromberg is a good carb to work on. Just be careful not to over tighten screws and jets this causes damage. See Strombergs web page for parts and Max can answer questions and supply suggestions, even do the complete rebuilding.


supereal    -- 07-29-2012 @ 8:56 AM
  See the post regarding cork floats. If yours has cork, it is probably the cause of your problem.


DEAN333    -- 07-29-2012 @ 3:19 PM
  What is the best recommendation for a rebuild kit? Vendor/Supplier?

Thanks

TIM CARLIG


Oldad    -- 07-29-2012 @ 3:36 PM
  Dean333
stromberg-97.com claim they have kits and parts, genuine, original specs.


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