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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Engine running rich...1936 Touring Fordor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Engine running rich...1936 Touring Fordor -- page: 1 2

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Oldad
07-29-2012 @ 3:36 PM
New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2012
          
Dean333
stromberg-97.com claim they have kits and parts, genuine, original specs.

DEAN333
07-29-2012 @ 3:19 PM
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
          
What is the best recommendation for a rebuild kit? Vendor/Supplier?

Thanks

TIM CARLIG

supereal
07-29-2012 @ 8:56 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
See the post regarding cork floats. If yours has cork, it is probably the cause of your problem.

40 Coupe
07-29-2012 @ 5:31 AM
Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Check fuel pressure and carb float level and make sure the fuel inlet valve is steel and not vitron tip. use a leather accelerator pump in the carb and if your going to disassemble the carb, do it all the way, remove the emulsion tubes and check the holes for deformity and blockage. Check the jet and power valve sizes (usually marked on the parts). The Stromberg is a good carb to work on. Just be careful not to over tighten screws and jets this causes damage. See Strombergs web page for parts and Max can answer questions and supply suggestions, even do the complete rebuilding.

Oldad
07-28-2012 @ 6:52 PM
New Member
Posts: 111
Joined: May 2012
          
The Stromberg "97" will run rich if the fuel pressure is, in my experience, over 3 psi. The reason being that the small float in the bowl does not exert sufficient pressure to cut off the flow of fuel. I recently had the same problem on a 1937. I put a pressure gauge between the mechanical pump and the carburetor and I got reading well over 3 psi. I put in a pressure regulator and set if for 2 1/2 to 3 psi. Problem solved. The fuel pressure generated by a mechanical pump of the original design is determined by the strength of the internal spring since it is this spring acting on the diaphram that forces the fuel out. It is my belief that we are not getting the same manufacturing precision with foreign made parts that we did in the late thirties.

DEAN333
07-28-2012 @ 5:20 PM
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
          
I adjusted the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge, holds steady at 17-18". I tried retarding the timing a little, advancing it a little, then put it back where it was...about the middle of the degree marks. It still does not idle smooth and leaves a trail of noxous odor to the car following. Any tips Guys??

TIM CARLIG

supereal
07-26-2012 @ 8:28 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The idle screws only affect idle. Above that speed, the main jets provide the fuel flow. We used the 97 for our stock car racing because we could quickly change jet size. For general use, the 94 is considerably more reliable. That is why it replaced earlier carbs.

DEAN333
07-26-2012 @ 3:49 PM
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: May 2012
          
I have the 21 stud, water pumps in the heads. You described the setup with the manifold I have. Must be a '41 manifold with the "97" carb.

TIM CARLIG

6lucky13
07-26-2012 @ 1:46 PM
Member
Posts: 57
Joined: Jun 2011
          
Tim,

Just a minor point.

My 36 was running rich as you described. Maybe 7/8 is still too rich. I used the following procedure to get the correct adjustment. First, carefully remove the idle mixture screws and inspect them to make sure they are clean and not damaged. Next reinstall the screws until fully seated, then back off about 3/4 turn open. Turn in until the engine begins roll or stall, then back off. Fine adjustment should be made with the engine warmed up and running at about 500 rpm.

40 Coupe
07-26-2012 @ 1:02 PM
Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The source of vacuum for the 36 distributor vacuum advance brake is a steel line running to the LH side of the aluminum intake manifold near the front of the intake and the bolts that bolt the intaake to the top of the block. From what you describe you may have a cast iron intake manifold vintage 1941 where the vacuum line runs to just under the base of the carburetor and is held there by a special hollow bolt that also serves as the source of vacuum for the wiper motor (plugged in your case). There is a hole in the intake for the special bolt and intake manifold vacuum, the bolt is fragile and easy to brake. Post a photo of your engine and the intake manifold. The 32-36 engine has water pumps in the heads and 21 studs,the 37-41 has them bolted to the front of the block and 24 head studs. You can run a Stromberg on the 41 intake, but the original carb was a Holley or Ford 91-99 also known as a 94.

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