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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 starter

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1936 starter -- page: 1 2     Bob56 07-23-2012 @ 12:39 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 121 Joined: Jun 2012 I am assuming I need the starter rebuilt since it will not start. Has a new battery. Just bought the car and previous owner said the brushes need to be replaced. My first question: are these starters date coded like my 1956 Chevy? Should I have my starter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt original? Where should I go to get this done. New to 1930's cars so it will be a learning experience. TomO 07-23-2012 @ 2:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 I would have your starter rebuilt if it is bad. Your starter is not date coded like a Chevy. I would look in the yellow pages for a company that rebuilds starters, generators and alternators. If you belong to a car club, ask someone for references. Failure to start can be caused by many things. If you would answer a few questions, someone here will give you help. Is your car 6 volt or 12 volt? Is the battery installed with the POS post grounded? Are the battery cables in good condition? Are the connections on the cables clean and tight? Does the starter turn over the engine? Does it turn it over very slow or very fast? Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-23-12 @ 2:14 PM Bob56 07-23-2012 @ 2:35 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 121 Joined: Jun 2012 It is a six volt system. cables are clean and connections tight. Starter does not turn over at all. Starting to think the battery. Original owner said the car was very hard to start when hot (starter not working) but when it cooled down it would start. Right now nothing. Had to push it off the truck when it was delivered today. This message was edited by Bob56 on 7-23-12 @ 2:37 PM supereal 07-23-2012 @ 8:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Being sure the car is out of gear, use a jumper cable to bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid. If the engine cranks, replace the solenoid. If not, remove the starter and put a battery across it while on the bench to see if it turns. Rebuilt starters are available as an exchange from many vendors. Shops that can actually do the job have become rare since alternators took over. Starters lose power when hot because internal resistance rises . Check for rebuilts at www.cgfordparts.com in their online catalog. The best way to check a battery is with a hydrometer designed for the job. Any reading of any cell below 1.250 indicates the battery is due for replacement. 40 Coupe 07-24-2012 @ 3:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1688 Joined: Oct 2009 Both the Generator and the starter have Mfg. date codes stamped into the body look for a code something like P-10 or Q-5 stamped under the Ford script. Buckeye Auto Electric does a lot of 6V gen & starters Ph: 440 354-2060 or 1-800-USA-5561 547 Hoyt St. Painesville, OH 44077 www.buckeyeautoelectric.com Make sure to check out the battery cables, starter solenoid and dash starter switch before sending the starter for repairs. 35ford 07-24-2012 @ 5:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 63 Joined: Oct 2009 It might help to know where you are located as there may be someone in your area that provides the rebuild service or a club member who could offer some help. JMO drkbp 07-24-2012 @ 6:11 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 Bob, If your '36 is stock, it has no solenoid or starter switch on the dash. The starter switch is on the floor between the pedals unless someone added one later. The switch on the right of the steering column at the dash is just the ignition switch. When you turn it on (down), nothing happens except a slight discharge will show on the ammeter. Ken in Texas supereal 07-24-2012 @ 8:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Any switch located under the floorboards, dimmer, starter, etc, is subject to failure from exposure. You can test the switch as mentioned above by jumping the terminals on the switch. Starters draw high current, so wear gloves and eye protection. The "rule of thumb" regarding starter current draw in amperes is that it is usually equivilent to half the engine displacemnt. Thus, for a 21 stud engine, it is a bit above 100 amps. Bob56 07-25-2012 @ 3:13 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 121 Joined: Jun 2012 The car is stock with the button between the pedals. The car started when they loaded it on the truck and hasn't since. When it got to me in Las Vegas, after getting it in the garage I checked the battery. There was barely enough water to cover the plates. I topped the water (distilled) and started to slowly charge it. My charger showed it was 54% when I started. At 69% on slow charge the water was boiling out. Going to check with a hydrometer today. As far as clubs there is nothing in this town. This message was edited by Bob56 on 7-25-12 @ 3:14 AM Henryat1140 07-25-2012 @ 6:21 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 110 Joined: Nov 2009 Hello Bob, Welcome to the world of early V8's. You have a great resource here to help you get going. My comments are regarding the battery. If you DO need a battery, and if it is located under the floor as original, then the size you want is a 2L. NAPA has one for about $92.00. The reason to mention this, is if you buy a 6 volt battery at Battery Warehouse or Tractor Supply it may be too high to fit properly under the floor and you won't be able to put the battery cover in place. Second tip: the point where the positive (ground) cable attaches to the frame is an important connection. It needs to be clean, shiny and tight. Good Luck, let us know how you make out.

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