| Bob56 | -- 07-23-2012 @ 12:39 PM |
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I am assuming I need the starter rebuilt since it will not start. Has a new battery. Just bought the car and previous owner said the brushes need to be replaced. My first question: are these starters date coded like my 1956 Chevy? Should I have my starter rebuilt or buy a rebuilt original? Where should I go to get this done. New to 1930's cars so it will be a learning experience.
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| TomO | -- 07-23-2012 @ 2:11 PM |
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I would have your starter rebuilt if it is bad. Your starter is not date coded like a Chevy. I would look in the yellow pages for a company that rebuilds starters, generators and alternators. If you belong to a car club, ask someone for references. Failure to start can be caused by many things. If you would answer a few questions, someone here will give you help. Is your car 6 volt or 12 volt? Is the battery installed with the POS post grounded? Are the battery cables in good condition? Are the connections on the cables clean and tight? Does the starter turn over the engine? Does it turn it over very slow or very fast? Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-23-12 @ 2:14 PM
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| Bob56 | -- 07-23-2012 @ 2:35 PM |
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It is a six volt system. cables are clean and connections tight. Starter does not turn over at all. Starting to think the battery. Original owner said the car was very hard to start when hot (starter not working) but when it cooled down it would start. Right now nothing. Had to push it off the truck when it was delivered today. This message was edited by Bob56 on 7-23-12 @ 2:37 PM
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| supereal | -- 07-23-2012 @ 8:45 PM |
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Being sure the car is out of gear, use a jumper cable to bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid. If the engine cranks, replace the solenoid. If not, remove the starter and put a battery across it while on the bench to see if it turns. Rebuilt starters are available as an exchange from many vendors. Shops that can actually do the job have become rare since alternators took over. Starters lose power when hot because internal resistance rises . Check for rebuilts at www.cgfordparts.com in their online catalog. The best way to check a battery is with a hydrometer designed for the job. Any reading of any cell below 1.250 indicates the battery is due for replacement.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-24-2012 @ 3:30 AM |
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Both the Generator and the starter have Mfg. date codes stamped into the body look for a code something like P-10 or Q-5 stamped under the Ford script. Buckeye Auto Electric does a lot of 6V gen & starters Ph: 440 354-2060 or 1-800-USA-5561 547 Hoyt St. Painesville, OH 44077 www.buckeyeautoelectric.com Make sure to check out the battery cables, starter solenoid and dash starter switch before sending the starter for repairs.
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| 35ford | -- 07-24-2012 @ 5:42 AM |
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It might help to know where you are located as there may be someone in your area that provides the rebuild service or a club member who could offer some help. JMO
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| drkbp | -- 07-24-2012 @ 6:11 AM |
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Bob, If your '36 is stock, it has no solenoid or starter switch on the dash. The starter switch is on the floor between the pedals unless someone added one later. The switch on the right of the steering column at the dash is just the ignition switch. When you turn it on (down), nothing happens except a slight discharge will show on the ammeter. Ken in Texas
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| supereal | -- 07-24-2012 @ 8:49 AM |
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Any switch located under the floorboards, dimmer, starter, etc, is subject to failure from exposure. You can test the switch as mentioned above by jumping the terminals on the switch. Starters draw high current, so wear gloves and eye protection. The "rule of thumb" regarding starter current draw in amperes is that it is usually equivilent to half the engine displacemnt. Thus, for a 21 stud engine, it is a bit above 100 amps.
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| Bob56 | -- 07-25-2012 @ 3:13 AM |
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The car is stock with the button between the pedals. The car started when they loaded it on the truck and hasn't since. When it got to me in Las Vegas, after getting it in the garage I checked the battery. There was barely enough water to cover the plates. I topped the water (distilled) and started to slowly charge it. My charger showed it was 54% when I started. At 69% on slow charge the water was boiling out. Going to check with a hydrometer today. As far as clubs there is nothing in this town. This message was edited by Bob56 on 7-25-12 @ 3:14 AM
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| Henryat1140 | -- 07-25-2012 @ 6:21 AM |
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Hello Bob, Welcome to the world of early V8's. You have a great resource here to help you get going. My comments are regarding the battery. If you DO need a battery, and if it is located under the floor as original, then the size you want is a 2L. NAPA has one for about $92.00. The reason to mention this, is if you buy a 6 volt battery at Battery Warehouse or Tractor Supply it may be too high to fit properly under the floor and you won't be able to put the battery cover in place. Second tip: the point where the positive (ground) cable attaches to the frame is an important connection. It needs to be clean, shiny and tight. Good Luck, let us know how you make out.
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-25-2012 @ 6:35 AM |
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Another battery comment: The script battery from Antique Auto Battery (this battery is the only script lead acid battery on the market)is also very high and does not conform to Ford Spec. for the 35-36 battery and nearly hits the floor cover and is about 3/8" too narrow so filler strips have to be added to get the battery to stabilize in the frame braces. I am using the Optima 6V in a special holder that lowers the battery 1 1/2" for top clearance. The cables fit without modification and the Optima is MUCH better than the lead acid. No modifications to the original car are necessary.
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| TomO | -- 07-25-2012 @ 7:04 AM |
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Bob, Now that we know you have a stock 36 with the starter button on the floor, we can start to isolate the failing part. Your starter may be locked into the ring gear. To check this out, out the car in 3rd gear and try to push it backwards. The car should be difficult to push and the engine should turn. If the engine does nit want to turn, the starter has probably locked into the ring gear. Continue to rock the car until you hear a loud bang of the starter releasing from the ring gear. You have made a good start by checking the battery. The battery needs to near fully charged in order to start the car. Use a voltmeter to check for 6.0 volts with the headlights on. Any lower reading indicates a weak battery. Next connect your meter between the NEG post of the battery and the cable at the starter and try to start the car with the ignition switch off. Read the voltage on the meter with the starter button depressed. If you read more than .5 volts, your starter switch is probably corroded, or the cables are corroded or undersized. If you have more than.5 volts, move the meter lead to the starter side of the starter switch and repeat the test. Then move the lead to the battery side of the starter switch and repeat the test. Post the results of the test here, so we can help you find the problem. Tom
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| Bob56 | -- 07-25-2012 @ 12:16 PM |
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The battery that is in the car now is the repo Ford script as you stated. Just did a hydrometer test and all cells showed bad, did a second test with a different hydrometer and the same. Battery had 6.29 volts when I did the test. I just find it strange that the cells would show bad when the previous owner said the battery was only a few months old. If I change over to the optima what number would it be. I would also like to show the car once to see how it scores. In 1995 it scored 996 points and the Dearborn award. Would you know the point deduction for incorrect battery
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-26-2012 @ 4:52 AM |
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If you want to show the car, save your old dead battery, drain all the acid out and neutralize it with baking soda. Take the battery with you to the show field. After the car has been safety checked and it is in it's position on the show field remove the Optima and install the Ford battery.Should only take a couple of minutes. This is also a good time to install your show spark plugs. The hold down and the Y bolts are not needed for the optima, but you will need them for the show battery. I am using the red top Optima 800 CCA
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| Bob56 | -- 07-26-2012 @ 5:00 AM |
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I am new to showing a car, but wouldn't you have to start it at some point during the inspection. I was looking at the inspection sheets from 1996 & 1997 when the car was judged by Early Ford V8 Club and they seem to go through everything
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| Model B | -- 07-26-2012 @ 5:36 AM |
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I would install the charged battery to see if it will turn the engine over. As far as safety inspection goes...leave the optima battery in your '36 until you have you are parked on the show field. Normally, you will have your car safety inspected a day or so before the actual show. I have had an acid Ford script in my '32 for over 10 years! Still going strong. Good luck!
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| TomO | -- 07-26-2012 @ 9:14 AM |
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If you have doubts about the battery, take it to a service center that sells batteries and have them do a load test on it. The load test require that the battery is fully charged. The battery may have lost acid on the trip or not completely filled when new or the previous owner had a senior moment when describing the age of the battery. Any one of these will give a low specific gravity reading. You can download current judging sheets from this site and the judging standards are in the front of the Club's Roster. I think that Optima only make one 6 volt battery. Optima Batteries 8010-044 6V RedTop Starting Battery To install it in your script battery case, you would have to remove both the top and the bottom of the script case along with all of the cell dividers. You will have to make a new top that looks like the original and then modify the battery carrier to handle the taller battery. You may still lose points on the Concourse, but probably not enough to keep you from a Dearborn Award. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-26-12 @ 9:21 AM
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| 40 Coupe | -- 07-26-2012 @ 1:14 PM |
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Before your car is judged it has to pass a safety (Tech) inspection. The car is started all the lights checked, wiper, horn..etc. after the tech inspection the car can go to the show field and be judged. The inspection usually happens hours before judging. If you get a chance go to a meet and watch. You will see some VERY NICE cars ask questions and you may learn. The owners are usually very open.
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