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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Coil rebuild

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Coil rebuild -- page: 1 2 3     jrvariel48 11-23-2011 @ 1:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Nov 2011 Hello all, I trying to find someone who can rebuild my '46 flathead coil. It currently works fine but I would like to rebuild it to 12 volts. Thank you for any information, Joe TomO 11-23-2011 @ 8:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7276 Joined: Oct 2009 Skip Haney should be able to rebuild your coil to work with 12 volts. http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm Why do you want to convert to 12 Volts? Leaving the car stock or close to it will give you a more reliable car, without the extra cost of converting your car. Tom supereal 11-23-2011 @ 12:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree with Tom, but if you must have a 12 volt coil, Skip can make it, or you can order one from C&G for about $70 as 1GA-12024-12V. It is a "script" coil, as well. With the 12 volt coil, you can bypass the resistor. jrvariel48 11-25-2011 @ 3:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Nov 2011 I bought the truck this way & found a great looking coil. The patina matches the truck very well but is 6 volts. Thanks for the names & info, Joe swmddo 12-20-2011 @ 6:41 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Are the aftermarket 6-volt coils that say "No external resistance needed" any good, or do they even work? My '48 is 6-volt, no resistor, and a aftermarket 6-volt coil with the words above. The engine starts immediately when cold, but is a bear to start if warm. Thanks Steve alanwoodieman 12-20-2011 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 One of those type has been on my 40 for over 20 years with no problem. You say hard to start when warm-does it turn over ok? and just does not fire. From my experience with a warm flathead if you even touch the gas it will not fire. Several other cars in my club are like that also. Cjeck the spark to see if it is ok. Should be blue and jump 1/2" to the plug also check your coil for extreme temperature when you first shut the engine off. swmddo 12-20-2011 @ 7:10 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan, I have spark, and the engine turns over...almost like it has not gas. I've had a mechanic check the resistance on the coil, and it seems to be within range. I have noticed that the coil IS very warm when first shutting the engine off. It could be flooded, because I touch the gas pedal, OR the coil is compromised somehow by the heat. Thanks Steve supereal 12-20-2011 @ 7:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Most of the tubular coils have a built in resistor, so the stock resistor should be bypassed. When coils get hot, the resistance of the windings goes up, and the intensity of the spark goes down. Coils generate heat as they are used, but excessive heat indicates poor condition of the internal insulation. The current draw of the starter further draws down the voltage, making hot starts difficult. I use a stock coil with a "hot start" booster, and the problem is gone. swmddo 12-20-2011 @ 8:39 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Where do you find these boosters? Steve supereal 12-20-2011 @ 10:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We make them up by using a piece of #10 or #12 wire long enough to reach from the starter side of the solenoid to the input terminal of the coil. In the middle of that wire, place a diode. They are available at Radio Shack, etc. Just get the one with the largest power capacity and put it in the wire somewhere between the ends. To determine whether your diode is facing the right direction, put the leads of a voltmeter, or a test light, between the coil end of the wire and ground, then touch the other end of the wire to the "hot" side of the battery. If you get a reading, go ahead and install the wire to the solenoid and coil. If you don't get a reading, turn the wire with the diode end for end, and retest. You should then get a reading. Be sure you attach the wire to the solenoid at the starter motor terminal (the big one) only. The diode puts battery voltage to the coil when the starter motor is activated, and prevents the coil circuit from trying to run the starter because a diode is a kind of "check valve". When you let off the starter button, the circuit returns to normal. This simple circuit overcomes the voltage loss to the coil when starting. It can be easily hidden, as it is just one wire. If you have any questions, post them. We have used this "booster" for years, and it usually makes starting must more dependable. Before 12 volts became popular, manufacturers used a similiar circuit in their vehicles, using an extra terminal on the solenoid instead of a diode to "goose" the coil. This message was edited by supereal on 12-20-11 @ 10:14 AM

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