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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Coil rebuild

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Discussion Topic: Coil rebuild -- page: 1 2 3

swmddo

08-10-2012 @ 4:10 PM

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Bob, I finally got around to putting the booster wire in...(been too hot to work outside OR in the garage). I checked the reading on the voltmeter, as described, and it read about 5.65 volts. The diode I used is a 1000v 1.5amp one. Not suire if I should use a HIGHER amp capacity or not. After the car was warm and running for a few miles, I stopped the engine, and I could not get it started...the starter bogged down like I had a low battery, yet the ammeter showed charging while driving.

TomO

12-26-2011 @ 7:10 AM

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Thanks for the update. You are not alone in wiring the round coil backwards in a POS ground car.

Tom

swmddo

12-24-2011 @ 8:47 AM

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To be honest, I am not sure if it was only ONE item. For one thing, I had replaced the old coil wire to distributor as the previous owner had spliced two wires together. The replacement I put on was a high resistance wire, which caused the spark to degrade when the coil got hot. Also, according to the mechanic, I had the coil wires backwards. I thought I had done it according to Hoyle, but apparently not. With a positive ground system, I have dyslexia regarding what is + and what is - downstream from the battery. At any rate, that problem is solved. Now, I have a clutch/tranny problem.

Steve

This message was edited by swmddo on 12-24-11 @ 3:31 PM

TomO

12-24-2011 @ 7:49 AM

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What was it, Steve?

Tom

swmddo

12-23-2011 @ 3:19 PM

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Got it. Thanks

Steve

c-gor

12-23-2011 @ 12:05 PM

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Another item to check is the starter solenoid (on firewall. My engine has a "Haney coil" and began to start slow. After checking a number of items Plugs, starter motor, battery coil resistance, I changed the starter solenoid. Problem solved

c-gor

12-23-2011 @ 12:04 PM

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TomO

12-23-2011 @ 10:24 AM

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Steve, the spark plug check should be made even if the plugs are new. The check is to determine the combustion mixture, not checking to see if the plugs should be changed.

Tom

swmddo

12-21-2011 @ 3:14 PM

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Thanks to both of you. I am also checking out the starter solenoid, to determine if it is failing some. I will double check the voltage at the coil again. Plugs are new and have been regapped.

Steve

supereal

12-21-2011 @ 10:58 AM

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I agree with Tom, but before you install the booster, check the voltage at the coil while the engine is cranking. Depending on the condition of the starter, its cables, and connections, the coil input voltage more often than not falls below the necessary level, particularly when hot. The stock coil input voltage while cranking needs to be about 3 1/2 volts. It is not unusual to see it drop as low as two volts when the starter is energized. If you are using a tubular coil with the built in resistor, the input voltage should be above 5 volts when cranking. The booster circuit has the advantage of bypassing the ignition switch and associated wiring, which is often where voltage is "dropped".

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