| jrvariel48 | -- 11-23-2011 @ 1:59 AM |
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Hello all, I trying to find someone who can rebuild my '46 flathead coil. It currently works fine but I would like to rebuild it to 12 volts. Thank you for any information, Joe
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| TomO | -- 11-23-2011 @ 8:10 AM |
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Skip Haney should be able to rebuild your coil to work with 12 volts. http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm Why do you want to convert to 12 Volts? Leaving the car stock or close to it will give you a more reliable car, without the extra cost of converting your car. Tom
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| supereal | -- 11-23-2011 @ 12:54 PM |
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I agree with Tom, but if you must have a 12 volt coil, Skip can make it, or you can order one from C&G for about $70 as 1GA-12024-12V. It is a "script" coil, as well. With the 12 volt coil, you can bypass the resistor.
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| jrvariel48 | -- 11-25-2011 @ 3:38 PM |
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I bought the truck this way & found a great looking coil. The patina matches the truck very well but is 6 volts. Thanks for the names & info, Joe
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| swmddo | -- 12-20-2011 @ 6:41 AM |
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Are the aftermarket 6-volt coils that say "No external resistance needed" any good, or do they even work? My '48 is 6-volt, no resistor, and a aftermarket 6-volt coil with the words above. The engine starts immediately when cold, but is a bear to start if warm. Thanks Steve
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| alanwoodieman | -- 12-20-2011 @ 6:52 AM |
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One of those type has been on my 40 for over 20 years with no problem. You say hard to start when warm-does it turn over ok? and just does not fire. From my experience with a warm flathead if you even touch the gas it will not fire. Several other cars in my club are like that also. Cjeck the spark to see if it is ok. Should be blue and jump 1/2" to the plug also check your coil for extreme temperature when you first shut the engine off.
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| swmddo | -- 12-20-2011 @ 7:10 AM |
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Alan, I have spark, and the engine turns over...almost like it has not gas. I've had a mechanic check the resistance on the coil, and it seems to be within range. I have noticed that the coil IS very warm when first shutting the engine off. It could be flooded, because I touch the gas pedal, OR the coil is compromised somehow by the heat. Thanks Steve
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| supereal | -- 12-20-2011 @ 7:28 AM |
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Most of the tubular coils have a built in resistor, so the stock resistor should be bypassed. When coils get hot, the resistance of the windings goes up, and the intensity of the spark goes down. Coils generate heat as they are used, but excessive heat indicates poor condition of the internal insulation. The current draw of the starter further draws down the voltage, making hot starts difficult. I use a stock coil with a "hot start" booster, and the problem is gone.
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| swmddo | -- 12-20-2011 @ 8:39 AM |
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Where do you find these boosters? Steve
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| supereal | -- 12-20-2011 @ 10:13 AM |
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We make them up by using a piece of #10 or #12 wire long enough to reach from the starter side of the solenoid to the input terminal of the coil. In the middle of that wire, place a diode. They are available at Radio Shack, etc. Just get the one with the largest power capacity and put it in the wire somewhere between the ends. To determine whether your diode is facing the right direction, put the leads of a voltmeter, or a test light, between the coil end of the wire and ground, then touch the other end of the wire to the "hot" side of the battery. If you get a reading, go ahead and install the wire to the solenoid and coil. If you don't get a reading, turn the wire with the diode end for end, and retest. You should then get a reading. Be sure you attach the wire to the solenoid at the starter motor terminal (the big one) only. The diode puts battery voltage to the coil when the starter motor is activated, and prevents the coil circuit from trying to run the starter because a diode is a kind of "check valve". When you let off the starter button, the circuit returns to normal. This simple circuit overcomes the voltage loss to the coil when starting. It can be easily hidden, as it is just one wire. If you have any questions, post them. We have used this "booster" for years, and it usually makes starting must more dependable. Before 12 volts became popular, manufacturers used a similiar circuit in their vehicles, using an extra terminal on the solenoid instead of a diode to "goose" the coil. This message was edited by supereal on 12-20-11 @ 10:14 AM
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| swmddo | -- 12-20-2011 @ 10:41 AM |
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Bob, thanks much! That is what I believe I need to do! Steve
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| TomO | -- 12-21-2011 @ 8:44 AM |
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Steve, The booster may give you a hotter spark while trying to start your engine, but if your coil is good, you do not need it. Check your spark when the engine is at normal operating temperature, by pulling one wire from the plug and holding it near a head nut. It should be blue in color and about 1/2" long. If you check it when cranking the engine, it needs to be 3/8" long and make a cracking sound. If these conditions are not met either your coil is weak or the input voltage is low. Because your coil has an internal resister you should have at least 5.5 volts at the input to the coil when cranking the engine. Again, make these checks with the engine at normal operating temperature. Another check that you should make is the spark plugs. If they have a carbon buildup, you are running rich. Check them when you are having trouble starting for a wet condition from flooding. If you have either of these conditions, your carburetor needs attention. Tom
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| supereal | -- 12-21-2011 @ 10:58 AM |
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I agree with Tom, but before you install the booster, check the voltage at the coil while the engine is cranking. Depending on the condition of the starter, its cables, and connections, the coil input voltage more often than not falls below the necessary level, particularly when hot. The stock coil input voltage while cranking needs to be about 3 1/2 volts. It is not unusual to see it drop as low as two volts when the starter is energized. If you are using a tubular coil with the built in resistor, the input voltage should be above 5 volts when cranking. The booster circuit has the advantage of bypassing the ignition switch and associated wiring, which is often where voltage is "dropped".
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| swmddo | -- 12-21-2011 @ 3:14 PM |
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Thanks to both of you. I am also checking out the starter solenoid, to determine if it is failing some. I will double check the voltage at the coil again. Plugs are new and have been regapped. Steve
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| TomO | -- 12-23-2011 @ 10:24 AM |
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Steve, the spark plug check should be made even if the plugs are new. The check is to determine the combustion mixture, not checking to see if the plugs should be changed. Tom
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| c-gor | -- 12-23-2011 @ 12:04 PM |
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Another item to check is the starter solenoid (on firewall. My engine has a "Haney coil" and began to start slow. After checking a number of items Plugs, starter motor, battery coil resistance, I bhanged the starter solenoid. Problem solved
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| c-gor | -- 12-23-2011 @ 12:05 PM |
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Another item to check is the starter solenoid (on firewall. My engine has a "Haney coil" and began to start slow. After checking a number of items Plugs, starter motor, battery coil resistance, I changed the starter solenoid. Problem solved
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| swmddo | -- 12-23-2011 @ 3:19 PM |
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Got it. Thanks Steve
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| TomO | -- 12-24-2011 @ 7:49 AM |
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What was it, Steve? Tom
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| swmddo | -- 12-24-2011 @ 8:47 AM |
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To be honest, I am not sure if it was only ONE item. For one thing, I had replaced the old coil wire to distributor as the previous owner had spliced two wires together. The replacement I put on was a high resistance wire, which caused the spark to degrade when the coil got hot. Also, according to the mechanic, I had the coil wires backwards. I thought I had done it according to Hoyle, but apparently not. With a positive ground system, I have dyslexia regarding what is + and what is - downstream from the battery. At any rate, that problem is solved. Now, I have a clutch/tranny problem. Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 12-24-11 @ 3:31 PM
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| TomO | -- 12-26-2011 @ 7:10 AM |
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Thanks for the update. You are not alone in wiring the round coil backwards in a POS ground car. Tom
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| swmddo | -- 08-10-2012 @ 4:10 PM |
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Bob, I finally got around to putting the booster wire in...(been too hot to work outside OR in the garage). I checked the reading on the voltmeter, as described, and it read about 5.65 volts. The diode I used is a 1000v 1.5amp one. Not suire if I should use a HIGHER amp capacity or not. After the car was warm and running for a few miles, I stopped the engine, and I could not get it started...the starter bogged down like I had a low battery, yet the ammeter showed charging while driving.
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