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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1933 Transmission Questions

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1933 Transmission Questions -- page: 1 2     BigBlockFord 03-11-2011 @ 6:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 68 Joined: Nov 2009 It had synthetic oil in it that I just drained. Some issues I have with the trans is difficulty getting into first, and occasionally popping out of second. This message was edited by BigBlockFord on 3-11-11 @ 9:48 AM Stroker 03-11-2011 @ 8:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 BBF: Are you referring to the "knob" located on the plate on the back of the bell housing? If so, that is a grease cup for the throwout bearing. supereal 03-11-2011 @ 9:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We use kerosene as a cleaning agent for gearboxes. The type sold for camp stoves is readily available. Just pour it in and run the transmission for a short time, then drain. We don't use synthetics in our old cars because it tends to leak past the old style seals. Old Ford transmissions already are like a sieve, and don't need much encouragement to decorate your garage floor. 140 will stay in better, but the more common 80-90 is OK. I think Dan has answered your question regarding the "knob". 37RAGTOPMAN 03-11-2011 @ 10:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 bigblock after you drained it, did you run a magnet around in the old oil looking for metal shaving, did it hve a silver look to it,or chips etc, you never said if the trans was rebuilt, or just a old trans, usually going into first is a clutch, problem is there enough free play in the clutch pedal,? jumping out of second, check your shifting forks for wear,, maybe not going all the way into second,seems also like you may have some wear in the gear train, worn bearing might do this, if worst comes to worst, take the top cover off and look at the gears etc, and see if you can see any problems. like super said you can wash the gears off,with kerosene,or diesel fuel,, I just to not like the oder these gives off,I usually use CRC BRAKE CLEAN,this drys up quickly,also has a oder but it goes away, good luck, and Please POST a UPDATE, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,, BigBlockFord 03-11-2011 @ 10:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 68 Joined: Nov 2009 It's a rebuilt transmission. No shavings were present, just nasty brown gear oil. I see Napa sells Valvoline 85W-140 non-synthetic gear oil. Would this be appropriate for the rear axle as well? 37RAGTOPMAN 03-11-2011 @ 11:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1961 Joined: Oct 2009 sounds like its worth a try, 140 will be good to use. how was the clutch ajustment,? maybe driving it a little will break the trans in, how many miles did you put on the trans,? was it like this from the get go?is it quiet and smooth? hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN lets hear how you make out, supereal 03-11-2011 @ 11:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Some gear oil is nasty. The last time I drained a tractor transmission with that stuff in it, my wife threatened to make me sleep in the garage! Any time gear oil turns brown, it is important to be sure that moisture hasn't entered the box. The Valvoline 85W-140 would be fine in both the transmission and rear end. Fill both only to the bottom of the filler hole. Most transmissions leak oil down the torque tube into the rear end, so they often need topping off, but you will find excess in the rear end. Let it drain down to the bottom of the filler, or it is likely to end up on the rear brake shoes. BigBlockFord 03-12-2011 @ 4:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 68 Joined: Nov 2009 OK, the 85W-140 is in the trans and rear axle. 2 1/2 pints for the trans and 2 pints for the rear axle as stated in the original specs. Now when, how much, and what type of grease is applied to the throw out bearing? As stated earlier, this was rebuilt maybe two years ago with minimal usage. As far as free play in the clutch pedal, maybe 1 1/2 inches. The issue with engaging into first occurs occasionally. So would adjusting the clevis on the adjusting rod have any effect on this? And finally, what is the purpose of the cotter pin in the base of the oil pan. See attached picture. Stroker 03-12-2011 @ 6:46 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 The cotter pin collects oil from the bottom of the clutch housing, and "wicks" it off into the airstream when you drive. (Don't tell the EPA) supereal 03-12-2011 @ 9:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Dan answered your question re the cotter pin. It isn't whether there will be an oil leak from the back main into the clutch housing, just how much! The cotter pin moves and prevents crud from plugging the hole. As to the transmission, popping out of second usually indicates that the shaft bearings are worn and/or the detent, blockers, and the forks in the shifter are sloppy. Shifting into first gear is easier if the idle speed isn't too high. Heavier (140) oil tends to slow the cluster down, as well. I've developed the habit, over the years, of shifting first into high gear before going into first. High is sychronized, but first isn't, and that will stop the gears.

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