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Discussion Topic:
1933 Transmission Questions
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supereal |
01-28-2012 @ 3:00 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Original fill specs are seldom related to the real world. Fill to just below the hole and you will be surprised at the lesser amount of leakage. It leaves plenty of oil to protect the gears. I learned that decades ago.
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BigBlockFord |
01-28-2012 @ 1:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Nov 2009
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Jerry, There lies the problem. If someone knew what they were doing, I wouldn't have this problem. I bought the "restored" car that was supposed to have a rebuilt engine and trans. Well, I just replaced the junk engine that came with the car with a brand new rebuilt, and now just finished the trans by replacing the second gear, second gear bushing, complete syncro, and main shaft. Beware of the "completely restored" cars for sale.
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jerry.grayson |
01-28-2012 @ 12:38 PM
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New Member
Posts: 128
Joined: Oct 2009
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You say that the transmission is "rebuilt". If rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing, you would not have the problem you have.JMO
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BigBlockFord |
01-27-2012 @ 1:31 PM
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Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Nov 2009
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When I added the gear oil, (I drained the old junk first), I went by the original spec which states 40 ounces.
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supereal |
01-27-2012 @ 10:15 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The usual reason for less oil when drained than installed is overfilling the transmission. The excess, that which doesn't end up on the garage floor, runs down the torque tube and can overfill the rear end. Fill the transmission until you can only reach the oil with a finger crooked thru the filler. Check the rear end, and allow excess to drain, or you may end up with oil on the brakes. Any good grade of transmission oil will work. We use 140 instead of 80-90, as we don't use the cars in cold weather. As a rule, we don't use synthetics, as they tend to creep past primitive seals.
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42wagon |
01-27-2012 @ 6:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 584
Joined: Oct 2009
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Weezer If the hole you are referring to is in the top of the car it is there because at the time presses were not available with large enough capacity to make the top in one piece. And once the presses were available Ford or their suppliers didn't want to invest in the new equipment. Once the other guys were doing it Ford joined in.
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fomocoloco |
01-27-2012 @ 5:56 AM
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Member
Posts: 85
Joined: Jun 2010
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I've wondered about that cotter pin too. Now can someone tell us the real reason our coupes and sedans have a hole in the top?
weezer
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BigBlockFord |
01-27-2012 @ 2:19 AM
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Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Nov 2009
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Well it's been awhile since I had the time to address my transmission problem. But I recently pulled the engine and transmission out for a rebuild. As far as the transmission goes, second gear and the syncro showed signs of wear, as well as the main shaft. I located NOS replacements and am now having it rebuilt. I found it interesting that I added 40 ounces of gear oil about a year ago, and when drained, only 20 ounces remained. The car got minimal usage, but when stored I always was wiping the floor of gear oil.
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supereal |
03-12-2011 @ 9:30 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dan answered your question re the cotter pin. It isn't whether there will be an oil leak from the back main into the clutch housing, just how much! The cotter pin moves and prevents crud from plugging the hole. As to the transmission, popping out of second usually indicates that the shaft bearings are worn and/or the detent, blockers, and the forks in the shifter are sloppy. Shifting into first gear is easier if the idle speed isn't too high. Heavier (140) oil tends to slow the cluster down, as well. I've developed the habit, over the years, of shifting first into high gear before going into first. High is sychronized, but first isn't, and that will stop the gears.
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Stroker |
03-12-2011 @ 6:46 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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The cotter pin collects oil from the bottom of the clutch housing, and "wicks" it off into the airstream when you drive. (Don't tell the EPA)
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