| BigBlockFord | -- 03-11-2011 @ 6:58 AM |
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It had synthetic oil in it that I just drained. Some issues I have with the trans is difficulty getting into first, and occasionally popping out of second. This message was edited by BigBlockFord on 3-11-11 @ 9:48 AM
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| Stroker | -- 03-11-2011 @ 8:24 AM |
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BBF: Are you referring to the "knob" located on the plate on the back of the bell housing? If so, that is a grease cup for the throwout bearing.
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| supereal | -- 03-11-2011 @ 9:50 AM |
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We use kerosene as a cleaning agent for gearboxes. The type sold for camp stoves is readily available. Just pour it in and run the transmission for a short time, then drain. We don't use synthetics in our old cars because it tends to leak past the old style seals. Old Ford transmissions already are like a sieve, and don't need much encouragement to decorate your garage floor. 140 will stay in better, but the more common 80-90 is OK. I think Dan has answered your question regarding the "knob".
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-11-2011 @ 10:15 AM |
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bigblock after you drained it, did you run a magnet around in the old oil looking for metal shaving, did it hve a silver look to it,or chips etc, you never said if the trans was rebuilt, or just a old trans, usually going into first is a clutch, problem is there enough free play in the clutch pedal,? jumping out of second, check your shifting forks for wear,, maybe not going all the way into second,seems also like you may have some wear in the gear train, worn bearing might do this, if worst comes to worst, take the top cover off and look at the gears etc, and see if you can see any problems. like super said you can wash the gears off,with kerosene,or diesel fuel,, I just to not like the oder these gives off,I usually use CRC BRAKE CLEAN,this drys up quickly,also has a oder but it goes away, good luck, and Please POST a UPDATE, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN,,
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| BigBlockFord | -- 03-11-2011 @ 10:19 AM |
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It's a rebuilt transmission. No shavings were present, just nasty brown gear oil. I see Napa sells Valvoline 85W-140 non-synthetic gear oil. Would this be appropriate for the rear axle as well?
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-11-2011 @ 11:40 AM |
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sounds like its worth a try, 140 will be good to use. how was the clutch ajustment,? maybe driving it a little will break the trans in, how many miles did you put on the trans,? was it like this from the get go?is it quiet and smooth? hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN lets hear how you make out,
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| supereal | -- 03-11-2011 @ 11:52 AM |
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Some gear oil is nasty. The last time I drained a tractor transmission with that stuff in it, my wife threatened to make me sleep in the garage! Any time gear oil turns brown, it is important to be sure that moisture hasn't entered the box. The Valvoline 85W-140 would be fine in both the transmission and rear end. Fill both only to the bottom of the filler hole. Most transmissions leak oil down the torque tube into the rear end, so they often need topping off, but you will find excess in the rear end. Let it drain down to the bottom of the filler, or it is likely to end up on the rear brake shoes.
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| BigBlockFord | -- 03-12-2011 @ 4:12 AM |
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OK, the 85W-140 is in the trans and rear axle. 2 1/2 pints for the trans and 2 pints for the rear axle as stated in the original specs. Now when, how much, and what type of grease is applied to the throw out bearing? As stated earlier, this was rebuilt maybe two years ago with minimal usage. As far as free play in the clutch pedal, maybe 1 1/2 inches. The issue with engaging into first occurs occasionally. So would adjusting the clevis on the adjusting rod have any effect on this? And finally, what is the purpose of the cotter pin in the base of the oil pan. See attached picture.
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| Stroker | -- 03-12-2011 @ 6:46 AM |
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The cotter pin collects oil from the bottom of the clutch housing, and "wicks" it off into the airstream when you drive. (Don't tell the EPA)
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| supereal | -- 03-12-2011 @ 9:30 AM |
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Dan answered your question re the cotter pin. It isn't whether there will be an oil leak from the back main into the clutch housing, just how much! The cotter pin moves and prevents crud from plugging the hole. As to the transmission, popping out of second usually indicates that the shaft bearings are worn and/or the detent, blockers, and the forks in the shifter are sloppy. Shifting into first gear is easier if the idle speed isn't too high. Heavier (140) oil tends to slow the cluster down, as well. I've developed the habit, over the years, of shifting first into high gear before going into first. High is sychronized, but first isn't, and that will stop the gears.
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| BigBlockFord | -- 01-27-2012 @ 2:19 AM |
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Well it's been awhile since I had the time to address my transmission problem. But I recently pulled the engine and transmission out for a rebuild. As far as the transmission goes, second gear and the syncro showed signs of wear, as well as the main shaft. I located NOS replacements and am now having it rebuilt. I found it interesting that I added 40 ounces of gear oil about a year ago, and when drained, only 20 ounces remained. The car got minimal usage, but when stored I always was wiping the floor of gear oil.
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| fomocoloco | -- 01-27-2012 @ 5:56 AM |
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I've wondered about that cotter pin too. Now can someone tell us the real reason our coupes and sedans have a hole in the top? weezer
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| 42wagon | -- 01-27-2012 @ 6:31 AM |
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Weezer If the hole you are referring to is in the top of the car it is there because at the time presses were not available with large enough capacity to make the top in one piece. And once the presses were available Ford or their suppliers didn't want to invest in the new equipment. Once the other guys were doing it Ford joined in.
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| supereal | -- 01-27-2012 @ 10:15 AM |
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The usual reason for less oil when drained than installed is overfilling the transmission. The excess, that which doesn't end up on the garage floor, runs down the torque tube and can overfill the rear end. Fill the transmission until you can only reach the oil with a finger crooked thru the filler. Check the rear end, and allow excess to drain, or you may end up with oil on the brakes. Any good grade of transmission oil will work. We use 140 instead of 80-90, as we don't use the cars in cold weather. As a rule, we don't use synthetics, as they tend to creep past primitive seals.
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| BigBlockFord | -- 01-27-2012 @ 1:31 PM |
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When I added the gear oil, (I drained the old junk first), I went by the original spec which states 40 ounces.
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| jerry.grayson | -- 01-28-2012 @ 12:38 PM |
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You say that the transmission is "rebuilt". If rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing, you would not have the problem you have.JMO
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| BigBlockFord | -- 01-28-2012 @ 1:48 PM |
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Jerry, There lies the problem. If someone knew what they were doing, I wouldn't have this problem. I bought the "restored" car that was supposed to have a rebuilt engine and trans. Well, I just replaced the junk engine that came with the car with a brand new rebuilt, and now just finished the trans by replacing the second gear, second gear bushing, complete syncro, and main shaft. Beware of the "completely restored" cars for sale.
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| supereal | -- 01-28-2012 @ 3:00 PM |
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Original fill specs are seldom related to the real world. Fill to just below the hole and you will be surprised at the lesser amount of leakage. It leaves plenty of oil to protect the gears. I learned that decades ago.
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