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Posted By Discussion Topic: trying to get timing or distributor right -- page: 1 2 3     materguru 12-21-2021 @ 8:28 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 31 Joined: May 2017 Merry Christmas all i need help. i had a newly built 49 flathead running and still in shop working on car so just running. i had a stud leak and thought i had to pull heads to i moved the distributor before i realized i could fix leak without pulling the lock down bolt on dist. So, i cant for the life of me find correct TDC or the best place to put #1 wire and really I'm asking what's the best way to install the dist. and get it running again. i do have a Mallory YZ distributor with mechanical advance. thanks for help. it would be a great present to me to get it running again. thanks Don Turner 40cpe 12-21-2021 @ 8:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 472 Joined: Jan 2010 Pull #1 spark plug and put your thumb over the hole as the dot on the crank pulley approaches the timing pin. If the compression blows your thumb off, you are on the right stroke. If not turn one revolution and align the pin to the dot. Hold the distributor with the hold down bracket toward the head, point the rotor to 6 o'clock and install in timing cover. If the gears move it from 6 o clock, pull it back out and adjust so it will fall into place at 6 oclock. Install the distributor cap and place the #1 plug in the hole at 6 o'clock. Follow the firing order clockwise to install the remaining wires. It should start. Use a timing light to set timing. sarahcecelia 12-22-2021 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1190 Joined: Mar 2013 For those that don't have a timing light, or access to one: You can set the static timing with a simple test light. Turn the motor with a wrench on the lower pulley bolt CLOCK WISE until the rotor is just before where the #1 wire is in the distributor cap and the dot on the pulley is just a little before the pointer. Then connect the test light to the distributor side (-) of the coil, and ground the pointer of the test light. Then turn the motor (clock wise0 with the wrench toward the pointer. When the test light lights up that 's where it is timed. You could also put the motor in a position where the pointer and dot on the pulley are aligned, and just move the distributor ( with the rotor near near #1, until the test light lights up! Then lock it down!!THIS IS AN EXTREMELY ACCURATE WAY TO SET INITIAL TIMING!! The only real reason for a timing light ;(other than timing;) is to CHECK THE VACUUM ADVANCE! I LEARNED THIS METHOD 1N 1961 WHEN I WAS A NOVICE MECHANIC A T A VW DEALER, AND DIDN'T OWN A TIMING LIGHT!! It worked EVERY TIME!! Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 12-23-21 @ 4:51 AM materguru 12-22-2021 @ 7:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 31 Joined: May 2017 40CPE would that procedure work if the motor is a 49 and up? i thought the 6oclock was for 48 and some older? please no disrespect as i am the one that doesnt know. just looking at some Vampelt diagrams materguru 12-22-2021 @ 7:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 31 Joined: May 2017 just needed to add one other thing if it will help,, the pulley is from another 49 and the dot is there and as you know they are keyed and fit the crank just in a certain way. would the dot still be the same TomO 12-22-2021 @ 8:16 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 To find the spot to point the rotor, look at your distributor cap for the wire that goes to No. 1 cylinder. The shop manual suggests that you scribe a mark on the distributor housing to show where the rotor was pointing when before you remove the distributor. My suggestion is the you get the engine lined up with cyl 1 at TDC, and then scribe the mark. Next time you decide to work on your car, use your cell phone or digital camera to take pictures before you start work and then as you take each part off, take another photo. You now have a goof reference for reassembly. Tom 40cpe 12-22-2021 @ 8:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 472 Joined: Jan 2010 6 o'clock will work on '49-up. Actually, you can put #1 in any position as long as it is timed to the position and the firing order is followed. The dot will be the same on the pulley. sarahcecelia 12-22-2021 @ 1:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1190 Joined: Mar 2013 THE DOT ON THE LOWER PULLY FOR ALL 8BA FLAT HEADS 1949-1953, IS ALWAYS THE SAME. IT'S THE (2)DEGREES ADVANCE MARK WHEN IT IS ALIGNED WITH THE POINTER ON THE FRONT CAM COVER. Dave239 12-28-2021 @ 2:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Dec 2021 This message was edited by Dave239 on 12-30-21 @ 9:50 PM Dave239 12-28-2021 @ 2:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Dec 2021 Mart is a guru and posts videos from his garage. He posted this on the HAMB awhile back. adjustablejohnsons, May 13, 2006 Mart Mart Member from Solihull, England. You need the Mart-O-Matic Handy-Dandy Bent Wire Flathead TDC indicator wand. Two bits of bent 1/8" welding wire. The one piece (wrapped round the head nut) just acts as a guide for the other piece. That has a 90 deg bend, and about 2" beyond the bend. The bend allows the end to sit on the piston. As you go past TDC the wand rises and starts to fall. With a little To-ing and Fro-ing you can stop the motor with the wand at it's highest and that's a pretty good indication of tdc for getting a motor running. You want the piston to be on the compression stroke before putting the wire in the plug hole, so watch the exhaust valve through the plug hole, turn the crank till it closes, and then turn it one complete turn more. This should put that cylinder at roughly tdc on the compression stroke. Dave This message was edited by Dave239 on 12-28-21 @ 2:32 PM

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