| materguru | -- 12-21-2021 @ 8:28 PM |
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Merry Christmas all i need help. i had a newly built 49 flathead running and still in shop working on car so just running. i had a stud leak and thought i had to pull heads to i moved the distributor before i realized i could fix leak without pulling the lock down bolt on dist. So, i cant for the life of me find correct TDC or the best place to put #1 wire and really I'm asking what's the best way to install the dist. and get it running again. i do have a Mallory YZ distributor with mechanical advance. thanks for help. it would be a great present to me to get it running again. thanks Don Turner
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| 40cpe | -- 12-21-2021 @ 8:58 PM |
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Pull #1 spark plug and put your thumb over the hole as the dot on the crank pulley approaches the timing pin. If the compression blows your thumb off, you are on the right stroke. If not turn one revolution and align the pin to the dot. Hold the distributor with the hold down bracket toward the head, point the rotor to 6 o'clock and install in timing cover. If the gears move it from 6 o clock, pull it back out and adjust so it will fall into place at 6 oclock. Install the distributor cap and place the #1 plug in the hole at 6 o'clock. Follow the firing order clockwise to install the remaining wires. It should start. Use a timing light to set timing.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-22-2021 @ 7:21 AM |
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For those that don't have a timing light, or access to one: You can set the static timing with a simple test light. Turn the motor with a wrench on the lower pulley bolt CLOCK WISE until the rotor is just before where the #1 wire is in the distributor cap and the dot on the pulley is just a little before the pointer. Then connect the test light to the distributor side (-) of the coil, and ground the pointer of the test light. Then turn the motor (clock wise0 with the wrench toward the pointer. When the test light lights up that 's where it is timed. You could also put the motor in a position where the pointer and dot on the pulley are aligned, and just move the distributor ( with the rotor near near #1, until the test light lights up! Then lock it down!!THIS IS AN EXTREMELY ACCURATE WAY TO SET INITIAL TIMING!! The only real reason for a timing light ;(other than timing;) is to CHECK THE VACUUM ADVANCE! I LEARNED THIS METHOD 1N 1961 WHEN I WAS A NOVICE MECHANIC A T A VW DEALER, AND DIDN'T OWN A TIMING LIGHT!! It worked EVERY TIME!! Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 12-23-21 @ 4:51 AM
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| materguru | -- 12-22-2021 @ 7:48 AM |
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40CPE would that procedure work if the motor is a 49 and up? i thought the 6oclock was for 48 and some older? please no disrespect as i am the one that doesnt know. just looking at some Vampelt diagrams
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| materguru | -- 12-22-2021 @ 7:51 AM |
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just needed to add one other thing if it will help,, the pulley is from another 49 and the dot is there and as you know they are keyed and fit the crank just in a certain way. would the dot still be the same
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| TomO | -- 12-22-2021 @ 8:16 AM |
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To find the spot to point the rotor, look at your distributor cap for the wire that goes to No. 1 cylinder. The shop manual suggests that you scribe a mark on the distributor housing to show where the rotor was pointing when before you remove the distributor. My suggestion is the you get the engine lined up with cyl 1 at TDC, and then scribe the mark. Next time you decide to work on your car, use your cell phone or digital camera to take pictures before you start work and then as you take each part off, take another photo. You now have a goof reference for reassembly. Tom
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| 40cpe | -- 12-22-2021 @ 8:19 AM |
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6 o'clock will work on '49-up. Actually, you can put #1 in any position as long as it is timed to the position and the firing order is followed. The dot will be the same on the pulley.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-22-2021 @ 1:10 PM |
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THE DOT ON THE LOWER PULLY FOR ALL 8BA FLAT HEADS 1949-1953, IS ALWAYS THE SAME. IT'S THE (2)DEGREES ADVANCE MARK WHEN IT IS ALIGNED WITH THE POINTER ON THE FRONT CAM COVER.
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| Dave239 | -- 12-28-2021 @ 2:11 PM |
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This message was edited by Dave239 on 12-30-21 @ 9:50 PM
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| Dave239 | -- 12-28-2021 @ 2:22 PM |
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Mart is a guru and posts videos from his garage. He posted this on the HAMB awhile back. adjustablejohnsons, May 13, 2006 Mart Mart Member from Solihull, England. You need the Mart-O-Matic Handy-Dandy Bent Wire Flathead TDC indicator wand. Two bits of bent 1/8" welding wire. The one piece (wrapped round the head nut) just acts as a guide for the other piece. That has a 90 deg bend, and about 2" beyond the bend. The bend allows the end to sit on the piston. As you go past TDC the wand rises and starts to fall. With a little To-ing and Fro-ing you can stop the motor with the wand at it's highest and that's a pretty good indication of tdc for getting a motor running. You want the piston to be on the compression stroke before putting the wire in the plug hole, so watch the exhaust valve through the plug hole, turn the crank till it closes, and then turn it one complete turn more. This should put that cylinder at roughly tdc on the compression stroke. Dave This message was edited by Dave239 on 12-28-21 @ 2:32 PM
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| materguru | -- 12-29-2021 @ 9:02 AM |
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Many thanks to all, with all this awesome information i should be up and running soon. I will keep you posted. sincerely, thanks again.. at wits end ova heer
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-29-2021 @ 6:01 PM |
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Yes all '49 and up to '53 v8's are 8ba's to my knowledge.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-29-2021 @ 6:01 PM |
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YES!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-29-2021 @ 6:13 PM |
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Don't get so technical; when the dot on the lower pulley and pointer on the timing cover align -it's at 2@ degrees before TOP DEAD CENTER!!, and that's where FORD Motor Company says it is to be timed! Naturally, as the motor is sped up, the timing must advance more, and the vacuum advance on the side of the distributor does that; if it doesn't, you either have a leak in the line to the carburetor or the diaphragm in the unit is bad. It could be more than that; but one, or both of them, those are usually the culprits. Regards, Steve Lee
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| sarahcecelia | -- 12-29-2021 @ 6:18 PM |
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True top dead center has no relation to timing; initial timing is at 2 degrees advance; NOT TOP DEAD CENTER!! Regards, Steve Lee
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| materguru | -- 01-01-2022 @ 8:45 PM |
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Ok, here is where I'm at now. I am using the mark on pulley and pointer. I set the dist. on the number one cylinder. I checked to make sure I was getting a spark on #1 by barely moving the dist.to and fro and watching the spark on the wire to the head/top of plug. I then locked the dist. down and now upon trying to start it, it seems to want to but nothing more than a lot of starting stumbles. Now what? I'm set up right I think but what can I do to without overstating the obvious..get it running. Im not getting back fire so I assume I'm on the compression stroke. Keep in mind I somehow got lucky and had the motor running and starting on a quick lick about a year ago. So it will run. I'm using starter spray to get it to hit a lick..when it finally will/does. Could I possibly need to clean the plug/s from all this scr*w*ng around? The #1 plug seemed very sooty, so maybe not getting a good enough fire from all the trial and error and loading fuel and not properly burning it off and the others too to get it going?
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| carcrazy | -- 01-01-2022 @ 9:41 PM |
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Your spark plugs may all be fouled at this point. Once the plugs are totally fouled the engine will not try to start even with starting fluid. I would replace all of the spark plugs with brand new ones set to the proper gap.
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| TomO | -- 01-02-2022 @ 9:01 AM |
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Are you sure that you had cylinder 1 on the compression stroke when you aligned the distributor rotor with the no. 1 spark plug? When you have the plugs out to clean or replace them, double check that cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke when the dot is aligned with the pointer and the rotor is pointing to the no. 1 spark plug wire. If you are still having a problem getting it started, rotate the distributor slightly towards the retard direction. If it still doesn't start, rotate the distributor slightly towards the advance direction. Tom
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| leon bee | -- 01-02-2022 @ 1:36 PM |
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About 3 times in a row on different engines, despite my best effort, I've had the distributor stuck in there just one tooth off. Engine will almost start or even start and barely run.
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| sarahcecelia | -- 01-02-2022 @ 3:40 PM |
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DUh ; it has to be on the compression stroke and timed to the camshaft. Factory #1 wire on the distributor is at 6 0'clock on the distributor cap. Tom sent that info in a previous thread, and he's DEAD ON!! The only way #1 can be in a different location on the cap is if to pull the distributor out and put it in in a different position (rotor pointing wherever with compression on # 1 cylinder. Then number 0ne can be where the rotor points to in the new position. But the other wires must then be installed in the same old firing order, and the same old rotation. Regards, Steve Lee
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| leon bee | -- 01-02-2022 @ 9:20 PM |
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I can tell you're real bright, Steve, because that is precisely what I was pointing out.
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