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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Removing eng compartment side panels

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Tim I

06-17-2011 @ 9:43 AM

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I'm switching from exhaust manifolds to headers on my '38 Standard coupe. It looks like those panels above the front fenders were designed to be removed to provide better access to the engine compartment. Is that right? If so, is it generally worth the trouble to remove and replace them? Any tricks or things to be careful of?

As usual, any advice is greatly appreciated...

Tim

Stroker

06-17-2011 @ 10:36 AM

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Tim I:

Yeah, it's pretty hard to access the motor on a 37-39 standard without removing the side panels, but it is simple, as all you have to do is remove ALL the fasteners, including the rear screw
on the top rear edge. Other than being careful of the painted surfaces, they were designed to be easy to remove, as just about any maintenance task from changing plugs to battery service is greatly facilitated with the side panels off.

06-17-2011 @ 10:38 AM

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Is it that you now use a ladder when you have work to do in the engine compartment of your '38? My first order of business is to remove the side panels when I do most of the work I have to do to the engine in my '37. They are meant to be removed - just two screws and a nut. Sure does make the engine more accessible, like when changing the plugs etc.

This message was edited by MG on 6-17-11 @ 8:55 PM

Bill Wright

06-17-2011 @ 1:18 PM

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If you start having over heating issues on a really hot day, removing the panels helps prevent vapor lock.I leave them off my '37 when I'm driving it summers at high altitude.

Don't Believe Everything You Think!
Bill Wright

ford38v8

06-17-2011 @ 1:56 PM

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Tim, I also have removed the ratchet hood prop, and use a very long wood stick to hold the hood up when working in the engine compartment. Lifting the hood up higher than normal tends to keep lumps and scabs off my bald head.

Alan

tierod

06-17-2011 @ 4:29 PM

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Putting the sides back in is another issue. Watch where the fender welting is so it doesn't get pinched. I usually got a friend to help me as two hands really aren't enough. Good luck.

Tim I

06-17-2011 @ 4:38 PM

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Thanks guys. That's the answer I was hoping for. I managed to get the coil and distributor on and off with the side panels in place, but I was always careful to not put any weight on them.

Alan, my car had the original hood prop disconnected when I got it, and I can see why. The car seems to be in original paint except for the hood, which looks like it was fixed after being kinked by someone who forgot (or didn't know) to lift before closing.

Thanks to all the great advice I've gotten here, so far I've replaced all the brakes (and added floaters!), replaced the kingpins,bushings and tierod ends, and had the coil and distributor rebuilt by Skip Haney. Since one exhaust manifold is cracked and the crossover pipe rotted out, I decided to go ahead and add Red's headers and dual exhaust. I have new tires and tubes waiting to be mounted (when I can figure out who to take them to) and then I should have a car I can drive and enjoy. Thanks again to everyone!

Tim

ford38v8

06-18-2011 @ 10:00 AM

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Tim, there was an advertiser in the V8 Times a short while back that made and sold wheel balancing adapter plates for your wide bolt pattern whees. The plate allows for modern spin balancing. Check some recent back issues for his contact information, or ask at your Regional Group if anyone can lend you one. It's a good idea to mount the plate and find the heavy side of each wheel before mounting the tire, so as to turn the heavy side of the tire opposite, aiding the balance before adding weights. Be sure to get a large bottle of talc for the tube. Without the talc, the tube won't position correctly and will abrade on the tire and rim.

Alan

trjford8

06-18-2011 @ 4:26 PM

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Tim, as a reminder the two front bolts of the manifold are 7/16 and the rest are 3/8. I know a lot of guys( including myself) who used all 3/8 bolts and wondered why the front two would not tighten.

Tim I

06-18-2011 @ 9:36 PM

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Alan,

I think you are referring to Alpine Performance Machine. I did try to order an adapter plate, but my check was returned with a note that they had closed the shop (retired?) and that they had no more adapter plates. Awhile back, I asked here on this forum for any leads on tire mounting in Denver, but got no response. I guess I need to start going to the local chapter meetings, and see if I can get a referral.

trjford8,

Thanks for the reminder on the bolts!

Tim

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