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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / oil drip

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Posted By Discussion Topic: oil drip -- page: 1 2     parrish 06-15-2011 @ 8:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 When I drive up my driveway with a strong incline (30 degrees or so), I get a rapid drip of oil or gear oil on the pavement. When the car idles on level ground, no such drip. I cleaned the trans and oil pan off today and will do another test...any advance notice of what I might check? Car has only been out once, so I have little information. This message was edited by parrish on 6-15-11 @ 8:38 PM TomO 06-16-2011 @ 6:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7263 Joined: Oct 2009 Parrish, if you have the slinger type rear main seal, that could be your problem. Try filling the oil pan with 4 quarts of oil without a filter and 5 quarts with a filter. The cork seal that fits between the pan and the rear main could also have slipped out of place allowing oil to spill over into the clutch housing. Put some clean white paper in the area where you are dripping so you can tell the difference between gear oil and motor oil. Tom parrish 06-16-2011 @ 7:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 thanks, Tom. As it has only dripped on my driveway incline while heading up, I'd need to crawl under while the car is at idle and sitting at 30 degree...I'll update my policies first! I thought I might puff some baby powder on the housing and pan while on level ground and then head up to see if it leaves some telltale hints. deuce_roadster 06-16-2011 @ 8:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 TomO didn't mention it but if the oil is from the slinger it will be coming out of the small hole in the bottom rear of the pan that covers the clutch. It should have a cotter key in the hole (which my belief is to keep the hole open). I think this hole is for the purpose of letting oil OUT so it won't soak the clutch if it gets back into this part of the pan. supereal 06-16-2011 @ 9:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If an old Ford isn't leaking oil, there is likely something wrong with it. Last week, I did my preseason maintenance on my '47, which included making a change in the access to the grease fitting on the u-joint housing which was almost impossible to reach. When I began to pump grease into the housing, I was surprised at the amount of transmission oil that was forced out around the cork "seals". Old Henry didn't spend much time, if any, working on seals, often opting for slingers, if any attention was given at all. This generally results in a liberal coating of oil on the underside of the car which, I think, probably accounts for the survival rate of so many vehicles due to the prevention of rust. Thank goodness for the sheets or cardboard which decorate the floor of most of our garages. Steves46 06-20-2011 @ 5:24 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi Bob. I was reading about the access change you were making for the U-joint zerk fitting. What did you do to improve this? I can feel the fitting on my 46 Coupe but there is now way my grease gun will reach it. Thanks. parrish 06-20-2011 @ 7:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 I covered my garage floor with 30 lb felt (construction paper) and used duct tape to seal the edges. The paper is tough, oil, anti-freeze, grease, etc. resistant and is easy to wipe or sweep up crud. Also, a mechanics roller slides easily over it. If you do any HVLP work, the dust tends to stay down. The only downside is when you drop a grease covered washer/nut, it can be hard to spot without shining a strong light... supereal 06-20-2011 @ 8:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve: I left the main body of the grease fitting in place, and unscr*w*d the zerk and removed it. Then, I substituted a long zerk in its place, about an inch in length. It came from our collection of fittings in the shop, but I assume that it is available from a supplier, too. Now, I can easily get a grease gun on it. Because the rear motor mount doesn't give enough room to reach the fitting, we often swap the top and bottom halves of the cover. That requires opening the floorboard, but since you grease the u-joint about once a season, it isn't a big deal. TomO 06-20-2011 @ 2:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7263 Joined: Oct 2009 Parrish, I would not crawl under a car on a steep incline either. I have a wide driveway and tend to enter at the same place, giving a foot leeway on either side. That is where I would put the paper or cardboad to determine the type of fluid that I am leaking. Tom ford38v8 06-20-2011 @ 5:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2774 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, I use a flexhose on my greasegun for that zerk. Seemed to be the only way to get to it. About zerks in general, if they don't accept even a short squirt, they are replaceable, you know. And the two zerks you never want to service are the ones on the rear backing plates. A squirt here would displace the correct axle bearing grease, and could also wind up on your brake shoes. Ever see a grease catcher bowl (for lack of a better name) overflow? Alan

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