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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Removing eng compartment side panels

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Discussion Topic: Removing eng compartment side panels -- page: 1 2

ford38v8

06-20-2011 @ 5:17 PM

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There's always the option of laying out your own pattern on a 1/4" steel plate and taking it to a machine shop to cut. The cost would likely be considerable, but a few extra plates made could get your money back upon their sale.

Alan

Stroker

06-20-2011 @ 4:51 PM

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Tim I:

If you do decide to opt for the Speedway adapter plates, you might consider posting the extra plate on the Classified section of our website. Surely there are other 36-39 owners who like balanced tires.

Stroker

06-20-2011 @ 4:40 PM

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Old time wheel balancers had these plates, but unlike Speedway's adapters, they didn't have a 5 on 5-1/2 bolt circle at the center, but simply a centering hole, so the cones or spindle on the balancer would center the wheel. I believe that the previously advertised plate was similar, and compatible with most modern balancers that pilot on the wheel's center. I have one, from an old John Bean dynamic balancer (which I also still have). The problem with my plate, is that will only fit on the 1" spindle on the JB. I've been meaning to take it to a machine shop and get it
opened up, and will have to do that before I put my 38 back on the road. If you find a source for the plates,(not the Speedway adapters), please share it with us as the cost of boring my old JB plate will probably be more than new one's sell for, and my lathe doesn't have enough swing to
do it. The Speedway adapters will work, but they are $pensive, and you don't need a pair.

Tim I

06-20-2011 @ 3:04 PM

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John,

That's the address of Alpine Machine, so David Ferencz must have been the proprietor. I guess I'll check out Speedway, although I hate to spend too much for something I may only need once. For now I guess I'll wait and see if someone in Denver might have one I can borrow.

Tim

johnpoly

06-20-2011 @ 12:26 PM

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Tim, I bought a wheel balancing plate two years ago.
It was shipped to me by David Ferencz, 954 Alpine Blvd,
Uniontown, OH 44685. It was used to balance the wheels on my '36 Ford. If memory serves it cost $85. Try contacting him. John

trjford8

06-19-2011 @ 6:56 AM

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Tim, I think Speedway Motors may have those adapter plates, but you have to buy a pair of them.

Tim I

06-18-2011 @ 9:36 PM

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Alan,

I think you are referring to Alpine Performance Machine. I did try to order an adapter plate, but my check was returned with a note that they had closed the shop (retired?) and that they had no more adapter plates. Awhile back, I asked here on this forum for any leads on tire mounting in Denver, but got no response. I guess I need to start going to the local chapter meetings, and see if I can get a referral.

trjford8,

Thanks for the reminder on the bolts!

Tim

trjford8

06-18-2011 @ 4:26 PM

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Tim, as a reminder the two front bolts of the manifold are 7/16 and the rest are 3/8. I know a lot of guys( including myself) who used all 3/8 bolts and wondered why the front two would not tighten.

ford38v8

06-18-2011 @ 10:00 AM

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Tim, there was an advertiser in the V8 Times a short while back that made and sold wheel balancing adapter plates for your wide bolt pattern whees. The plate allows for modern spin balancing. Check some recent back issues for his contact information, or ask at your Regional Group if anyone can lend you one. It's a good idea to mount the plate and find the heavy side of each wheel before mounting the tire, so as to turn the heavy side of the tire opposite, aiding the balance before adding weights. Be sure to get a large bottle of talc for the tube. Without the talc, the tube won't position correctly and will abrade on the tire and rim.

Alan

Tim I

06-17-2011 @ 4:38 PM

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Thanks guys. That's the answer I was hoping for. I managed to get the coil and distributor on and off with the side panels in place, but I was always careful to not put any weight on them.

Alan, my car had the original hood prop disconnected when I got it, and I can see why. The car seems to be in original paint except for the hood, which looks like it was fixed after being kinked by someone who forgot (or didn't know) to lift before closing.

Thanks to all the great advice I've gotten here, so far I've replaced all the brakes (and added floaters!), replaced the kingpins,bushings and tierod ends, and had the coil and distributor rebuilt by Skip Haney. Since one exhaust manifold is cracked and the crossover pipe rotted out, I decided to go ahead and add Red's headers and dual exhaust. I have new tires and tubes waiting to be mounted (when I can figure out who to take them to) and then I should have a car I can drive and enjoy. Thanks again to everyone!

Tim

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