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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Pulling rear hub

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Pulling rear hub -- page: 1 2 3     Steve S 04-09-2010 @ 4:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 54 Joined: Feb 2010 How much force should a rear hub require to pull? I've removed the nut and washer, flipped the nut around and partially threaded it back on to protect the threads, and installed a puller. I put a 150 lbs-ft impact wrench on it and the hub won't budge. While still under tension, I smacked the end a few times with a sledge. Still won't budge. Am I missing something here? With the outer seal removed, everything looks wet inside around the keyway, so I assume it isn't rusted or anything. Photo of my puller attached. ford38v8 04-09-2010 @ 5:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2769 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, There is no end to the different unique methods of removing the Ford hub, many of them, no, most of them, including yours, is damaging to the axle, the differential gears, your temper, and the safety of anyone close enough to get hurt. The only tool to use is the original one, designed and made by KR Wilson for Ford. The KR Wilson ABV-156 Hub Puller is being reproduced, and is advertised in the V8 Times. This puller is self centering, (yours is off kilter) requires only the hand tightening of a wrench, and at most, a light tap with a hammer. In all fairness, I'll say that despite the damage you've likely done to your axle with the puller you have, The KR Wilson may not have gotten the hub off either: It looks as if your hub has some bigtime rust issues on the perimeter, which means also that the drum won't turn, as the emergency brake was set, and the shoes rusted in place. I have run into this problem in a junk yard, trying to extract an axle. I ended up using a torch. I hope you can release your shoes without going to that extreme. Alan Steve S 04-09-2010 @ 6:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 54 Joined: Feb 2010 The drum actually turns freely. The 'rust' around the outside is more grease than anything. This truck was fairly well maintained before storage so not a single screw, bolt or nut has required more than a wrench and hand effort to release. I guess I'm lucky, plus I live in a really dry area and the truck was found in a nearby garage. It's odd that the photo makes the puller look off center (maybe lens distortion), but in person it's actually dead straight. There is a guy on eBay selling pullers for $55 that look similar to the KR Wilson tool. Anyone have any experience with them? It's 1/3 the price and appears to do the same thing. This message was edited by Steve S on 4-9-10 @ 6:16 PM parrish 04-09-2010 @ 7:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 349 Joined: Oct 2009 A long long time ago, I was trying to remove the rear hubs on my first '39 and I didn't know that the shoes had to be fully retracted for any chance of success. The reason is that if the drum face is worn down to any significant degree, the shoes will catch on the unworn lip of the facing...hope that helps. Steve S 04-09-2010 @ 9:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 54 Joined: Feb 2010 I had that thought briefly, but the hubs / drum isn't moving at all. I assume that if the brake shoes were holding it then the drum would move at least a little bit. ford38v8 04-09-2010 @ 9:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2769 Joined: Oct 2009 Parrish, You're absolutely right about the lip worn into the drum. I failed to mention this as I assumed that the drum/shoes were locked in rust. On an unknown drum, you really should consider that it may have a ridge. Alan ford38v8 04-09-2010 @ 10:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2769 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, The drum is tapered, and is an interference fit on the axle. When once you do put enough pressure on it, it will pop with a bang. I would think that the puller you have should work in a pinch if you use a wrench instead of an impact wrench. Put a wheel on it and lower it to the ground to stop it from turning while you turn the wrench. The axle nut is not sufficient to protect the axle. You are using the threads, which are taking a beating. The KRW that I spoke of has a cap nut that bottoms out on the axle, thereby taking the load instead of the threads. The cost of the KRW is an investment. A replacement axle will cost much more. Alan ford38v8 04-09-2010 @ 10:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2769 Joined: Oct 2009 Parrish, You're absolutely right about the lip worn into the drum. I failed to mention this as I assumed that the drum/shoes were locked in rust. On an unknown drum, you really should consider that it may have a ridge. Alan kubes40 04-10-2010 @ 6:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3408 Joined: Oct 2009 The lip that is almost certain to be worn on the inside (edge) of the drum will not keep it from coming loose from the taper of the axle. As others have said, a proper puller is a necessity. Your puller should be adequate but not nearly as good as a KR Wilson type. Your puller is applying pressure to the proper area. Also, an air wrench is out of the question. You must apply steady (constant) torque and a lot of it. Taper fits are extremely strong in design. Stand on the bar if need be.. It'll 'pop'. This message was edited by kubes40 on 4-10-10 @ 6:26 AM efv8 04-10-2010 @ 6:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Administrator Posts: 216 Joined: Sep 2009 just recently encountered the same problem!I used a K.R.wilson with no sucsess! called a fellow v8er he came over with the same style puller you are using with pressure applied we used a rosebud tip on a oxy,acetylene torch heating as rapidly as possible on the tapered section it broke free! This message was edited by efv8 on 4-10-10 @ 6:39 AM

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