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Discussion Topic:
1936 Ford ignition problems.
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forJJ |
04-14-2016 @ 6:13 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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I'm trying to start my 1936 Ford for the first time in 30+ years. I've re-wired everything, had the coil re-done by Skip Haney, and I'm still not getting spark. I'm thinking distributor, but not sure how to diagnose or repair it. I'm new to old Fords, and not sure how to test it. Thanks in advance! Jason
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4dFordSC |
04-14-2016 @ 6:49 PM
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Posts: 266
Joined: Oct 2009
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Have you checked/changed the points?
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ken ct. |
04-14-2016 @ 9:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Try a new condenser. Can be fitted to existing coil. NAPA . ken ct.
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40 Coupe |
04-15-2016 @ 4:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1683
Joined: Oct 2009
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After 30 years the points in the distributor may be corroded. It may be best to remove the distributor and clean the points. You can use a point file, do not use sand paper. Either ask Skip for a good condenser for the distributor or NAPA sells an FA-5 direct replacement. Test with a voltmeter to ground to see if there is voltage on the wire to the coil.
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TomO |
04-15-2016 @ 8:40 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7263
Joined: Oct 2009
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Connect a voltmeter to the coil input and check for battery voltage with the points open and about 4 volts with the points closed. You can open and close the points by tapping the starter button. If the voltage does not change, your points are not making contact when closed or your coil is not making good contact with the distributor.
Tom
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forJJ |
04-15-2016 @ 6:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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I put a meter on the coil input, but I never saw it drop below 5.3 volts or so. If I need to pull the distributor, I think I will be getting in over my head. I have never pulled a distributor, and would need a lot a help/luck/etc getting it put back. Any suggestions?
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TomO |
04-16-2016 @ 7:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7263
Joined: Oct 2009
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To pull the distributor, remove the 2 caps, remove the coil, remove the vacuum line, remove the 3 bolts that hold the distributor on. Clean the points with contact cleaner, lubricate the cam with a thin coating of distributor cam grease. Connect your ohm meter between the coil contact at the top of the distributor and the case of the distributor. Turn the shaft to make sure that the points make and break. To install the distributor make 2 guide studs by cutting off the heads of 2 5/16 -18 x 1" bolts and installing the studs in the cover. Slide the distributor over the studs, install the 3rd bolt loosely and turn the rotor slowly while pressing the distributor towards the engine. When the tang on the distributor is aligned with the slot in the camshaft, the distributor will fit tight against the engine. Snug up the 3rd bolt finger tight and replace the 2 studs with the 2 bolts and snug them up finger tight. Check all around the distributor to make sure that it is tight against the engine and then tighten the 2 bolts that are not used for the condenser ground. Replace the vacuum line and coil. Secure the bolt that grounds the condenser. Your engine will be in time. You may be able to clean the contact points by just removing the bails that hod the ditributor caps on and reaching into the distributor with some contact cleaner and a burnishing blade. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, see if you can find a nearby V-8 Club member to help you.
Tom
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ken ct. |
04-16-2016 @ 7:53 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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That's a pretty tall order for a newbi Tom hope he dosent get the tonge in wrong , it can be done. You know the result of doing that.If hes only getting 5.3 V at the coil wire either his battery is almost dead or his resister is bad.Someone who knows dist should check it out. OMO. ken ct.
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forJJ |
04-16-2016 @ 5:24 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Mar 2015
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Tom--Thanks for the instructions. I think I can handle the wrenching part of it, but how do I know how to align the tang with the slot? Ken--I bought a new battery about a year ago, and have kept it on a tender most of the time, so I don't think its the battery. I'm getting between 5.3V and 6.3V at the coil wire as I crank it. It sounds like I need to replace the resistor, is this the part: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=18-12250-N Thanks for all the help!!
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TomO |
04-17-2016 @ 8:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7263
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you re-read my instructions, I told you how to align the tang with the slot. Using the guide studs should help getting it aligned correctly. If it is 180 out, the housing will not fit up tight against the engine. The voltage readings make me think that you have resistance across the points and not enough current is flowing in the circuit to saturate the coil.
Tom
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