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Discussion Topic:
Removing 1940 Coupe Hinge Pins
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dolmer |
10-22-2013 @ 8:27 AM
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Member
Posts: 10
Joined: May 2011
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I am trying to change my mirrors to those that fit on new hinge pins, Got the favored tool, but nothing is moving. What should I do next. Is the original pin soft enough for me to drill with typical household drill bits or should I take it to a machine shop?
dolmer
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ford38v8 |
10-22-2013 @ 9:10 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2765
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dolmer, the "favored" tool is patience and elbow grease. That C clamp thingy is no more than a comercialized version of the device most guys build at home, and doesn't work any better, either. Drilling is usually the method of last choice, but favorable if you are able to line up a drill centered on the pin correctly. File a flat on top for a center punch and start out with a 1/8" bit. As you graduate to larger bits, each is able to make small adjustments to correct center. As the wall thickness thins, you'll be able to move the pin with a punch, but be sure to back up the hinge with something solid.
Alan
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supereal |
10-22-2013 @ 9:49 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Support the rear edge of the door to take the load off the pins. They are almost always grooved with wear, and catch in the hinge. The knurled part of the pin rusts in place, and makes removal one tough job. Be sure to protect the area around the hinge if you drill or pound on the pin. It is easy to damage the area, as I found out the hard way the first time I tried to get pins out. Drilling in close quarters is difficult, at best, and if you get off center, or drill oversize, you will have to find or make oversize pins. We use an air chisel with a pointed end, as trying to pound the pins out with a hammer and punch is very difficult. I installed a hinge mirror on one of my Model A's, and swore I wouldn't do it again. It just isn't worth the struggle to get the pins out.
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TomO |
10-23-2013 @ 10:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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IMHO unless you are just starting a restoration, I would not use the hinge pin mirrors. I know that the right side cowl mounted mirror is just for your wife to check her lipstick, so I would not install one. Old Henry has a trick he uses with his sun visor and a mirror that seems to fix the blind spot problem on the right. The left cowl mounted mirror works just fine on a 40. Soaking with a penetrating oil and using heat along with an air chisel can remove the pins, but most other methods do not work very well and increase the likelyhood of damaging the door or body. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 10-23-13 @ 10:26 AM
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ford1ford |
10-25-2013 @ 10:49 AM
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Member
Posts: 31
Joined: Nov 2012
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The air chisel super mentions I found work very well
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ford1ford |
10-25-2013 @ 10:51 AM
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Member
Posts: 31
Joined: Nov 2012
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The air chisel super mentions I found work very well
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ford1ford |
10-25-2013 @ 10:51 AM
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Member
Posts: 31
Joined: Nov 2012
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The air chisel super mentions I found work very well
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ford1ford |
10-25-2013 @ 10:58 AM
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Member
Posts: 31
Joined: Nov 2012
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The air chisel super mentions I found work very well
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Rono |
10-25-2013 @ 5:43 PM
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Member
Posts: 32
Joined: Dec 2012
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Is it worth it to replace the entire hinge set with aftermarket hinges or is that job just as difficult? I know the hinges are expensive, but when you figure the time involved, maybe not so much. Rono
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Stroker |
10-25-2013 @ 6:13 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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An air chisel, running on typical 100+ psi line pressure can be pretty uncontrollable. I prefer a riveting gun, which has a "teasing" trigger, and with the addition of a pressure regulator set at about 30 psi, you can drive the pin out without the risk of the bit walking away from the center of the pin. These tools use the same bits as an air chisel, but are much more controllable. Stop by your local airport, and the A&P should be able to source one for you.
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