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Discussion Topic:
12v or 6v?
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spqr67 |
07-29-2012 @ 9:53 AM
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Member
Posts: 43
Joined: Jul 2012
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I have a 50 Fordor that is currently setup to run 6v...sort of...not sure if all the components are working as I just picked her up. I've got her hooked up directly to a battery now. My instinct is to convert to 12v, but that's quite an investment. Any thoughts on best ways to test the 6v pieces? Or should I just throw in the towel and save up for the 12v conversion? Thanks!
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CharlieStephens |
07-29-2012 @ 10:04 AM
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Senior
Posts: 893
Joined: Oct 2009
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Remove and clean to the bare metal all battery cables. Clean the battery posts and the inside of the cable connector that goes over the battery post. Check to be sure someone did not replace the correct cables with ones designed for a 12 volt car. The 12 volt cables are smaller and will result in a slow cranking car. Have the battery tested. If you still have problems, post them. If you decide to go to 12 volts (which I don't recommend) have the starter and generator converted rather than going to one of those "ugly" alternators. Charlie Stephens
This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 7-29-12 @ 10:33 AM
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joe b |
07-29-2012 @ 10:36 AM
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Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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Charlie has the right approach. My thoughts are why change? The 6 volt system has worked for over 70 years. My '41 has been fine for the 16 years that I have owned it. I think we have been spoiled by the new cars with their fuel injection that starts with the 2 seconds of the starter.
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spqr67 |
07-29-2012 @ 10:44 AM
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Posts: 43
Joined: Jul 2012
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Thanks for the quick response. Suppose I thought moving to a 12v system would be more reliable. The battery and connections are fine, unsure of the rest of the system. Thoughts on easy ways to test things like generator, solenoids, etc?
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supereal |
07-29-2012 @ 11:08 AM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you have a voltmeter, put the probes on each end of all the circuits you can reach, and while that circuit is energized, read the result. Any voltage shown is a loss in that leg of the circuit. Look for loose, dirty, or corroded conections, then clean and tighten them until the loss reading drops to near zero. To test the generator, place the probes across the battery poles while the engine is running at a fast idle. If you see less than about 7.5 volts, the charging system is not functioning properly. You can test the cable from the solenoid to the starter as set out above. As Charlie said, we often find 12 volt battery cables in six volt vehicles. They are insufficent. Many have heavy insulation, and too small conductors. Converting a car from 6 to 12 volts is a complex and expensive process, usually undertaken by those looking for a quick fix for slow cranking. Manufacturers changed to 12 volts to eliminate the cost of providing larger wiring when cars began to add accessories. This had the effect of doubling the wire size. A six volt system, properly maintained, is as reliable as the 12.
This message was edited by supereal on 7-29-12 @ 11:08 AM
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mrtexas |
07-29-2012 @ 11:55 AM
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It's pretty cheap to go 12v. I bought a 12v rebuilt alternator for $45, an alternator bracket, and a battery. A few light bulbs are also required.
This message was edited by mrtexas on 7-29-12 @ 11:56 AM
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supereal |
07-29-2012 @ 2:38 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gauges must befitted with voltage droppers, heater motors replaced, and the starter motor will fail quickly if not replaced with a correct unit. The coil must be swapped, as well. Just swapping batteries and bulbs is not all required for a real conversion. It may work for a while, but usually not long.
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spqr67 |
07-29-2012 @ 3:38 PM
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Member
Posts: 43
Joined: Jul 2012
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Many thanks! After reading your explanation, seems even a novice like me could diagnose if its worth keeping the 6v system. I hesitate asking thins but you've been a good sport so far...I need to change the battery in the car to a 6v before testing, correct? Want to be sure as its a $150 investment in a 6v battery
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Oldad |
07-29-2012 @ 3:59 PM
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New Member
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Joined: May 2012
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If it ain't broke don't fix it! Supereal gave you good advice for checking with a voltmeter. If you don't have a voltmeter may I suggest you buy one--it is an essential tool. May I also suggest you compare the original battery specs with the one installed in the car. Frequently I find "one size fits all" 6 volt batteries in cars that lack the cranking power of the original. The mass market auto parts stores may not have the battery you need but with a little searching you will find as good, or better, battery than the original
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supereal |
07-29-2012 @ 5:05 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks. We have done conversions for years. The battery of choice here is the Optima red top six volt. For durability and power, they are unmatched.
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