| spqr67 | -- 07-29-2012 @ 9:53 AM |
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I have a 50 Fordor that is currently setup to run 6v...sort of...not sure if all the components are working as I just picked her up. I've got her hooked up directly to a battery now. My instinct is to convert to 12v, but that's quite an investment. Any thoughts on best ways to test the 6v pieces? Or should I just throw in the towel and save up for the 12v conversion? Thanks!
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| CharlieStephens | -- 07-29-2012 @ 10:04 AM |
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Remove and clean to the bare metal all battery cables. Clean the battery posts and the inside of the cable connector that goes over the battery post. Check to be sure someone did not replace the correct cables with ones designed for a 12 volt car. The 12 volt cables are smaller and will result in a slow cranking car. Have the battery tested. If you still have problems, post them. If you decide to go to 12 volts (which I don't recommend) have the starter and generator converted rather than going to one of those "ugly" alternators. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 7-29-12 @ 10:33 AM
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| joe b | -- 07-29-2012 @ 10:36 AM |
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Charlie has the right approach. My thoughts are why change? The 6 volt system has worked for over 70 years. My '41 has been fine for the 16 years that I have owned it. I think we have been spoiled by the new cars with their fuel injection that starts with the 2 seconds of the starter.
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| spqr67 | -- 07-29-2012 @ 10:44 AM |
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Thanks for the quick response. Suppose I thought moving to a 12v system would be more reliable. The battery and connections are fine, unsure of the rest of the system. Thoughts on easy ways to test things like generator, solenoids, etc?
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| supereal | -- 07-29-2012 @ 11:08 AM |
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If you have a voltmeter, put the probes on each end of all the circuits you can reach, and while that circuit is energized, read the result. Any voltage shown is a loss in that leg of the circuit. Look for loose, dirty, or corroded conections, then clean and tighten them until the loss reading drops to near zero. To test the generator, place the probes across the battery poles while the engine is running at a fast idle. If you see less than about 7.5 volts, the charging system is not functioning properly. You can test the cable from the solenoid to the starter as set out above. As Charlie said, we often find 12 volt battery cables in six volt vehicles. They are insufficent. Many have heavy insulation, and too small conductors. Converting a car from 6 to 12 volts is a complex and expensive process, usually undertaken by those looking for a quick fix for slow cranking. Manufacturers changed to 12 volts to eliminate the cost of providing larger wiring when cars began to add accessories. This had the effect of doubling the wire size. A six volt system, properly maintained, is as reliable as the 12. This message was edited by supereal on 7-29-12 @ 11:08 AM
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| mrtexas | -- 07-29-2012 @ 11:55 AM |
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It's pretty cheap to go 12v. I bought a 12v rebuilt alternator for $45, an alternator bracket, and a battery. A few light bulbs are also required. This message was edited by mrtexas on 7-29-12 @ 11:56 AM
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| supereal | -- 07-29-2012 @ 2:38 PM |
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Gauges must befitted with voltage droppers, heater motors replaced, and the starter motor will fail quickly if not replaced with a correct unit. The coil must be swapped, as well. Just swapping batteries and bulbs is not all required for a real conversion. It may work for a while, but usually not long.
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| spqr67 | -- 07-29-2012 @ 3:38 PM |
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Many thanks! After reading your explanation, seems even a novice like me could diagnose if its worth keeping the 6v system. I hesitate asking thins but you've been a good sport so far...I need to change the battery in the car to a 6v before testing, correct? Want to be sure as its a $150 investment in a 6v battery
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| Oldad | -- 07-29-2012 @ 3:59 PM |
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If it ain't broke don't fix it! Supereal gave you good advice for checking with a voltmeter. If you don't have a voltmeter may I suggest you buy one--it is an essential tool. May I also suggest you compare the original battery specs with the one installed in the car. Frequently I find "one size fits all" 6 volt batteries in cars that lack the cranking power of the original. The mass market auto parts stores may not have the battery you need but with a little searching you will find as good, or better, battery than the original
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| supereal | -- 07-29-2012 @ 5:05 PM |
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Thanks. We have done conversions for years. The battery of choice here is the Optima red top six volt. For durability and power, they are unmatched.
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| planojc | -- 07-30-2012 @ 7:27 AM |
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I would stay with 6 volts, but swap the generator for a 6 volt alternator, especially if you have a BW overdrive. The alternator will solve any problems energizing the BW solenoid and you will also see an improvement in your headlights. Mac's has the 6v alternator kit.
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| TomO | -- 07-30-2012 @ 8:10 AM |
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A 12v system is not more reliable than a 6v system. Reliability depends upon the condition of the components of the car. When you make any changes from stock, you are re-engineering the working parts of the car, so the reliability depends more on the engineering of the changes that the original design of the car. You can find Optima 6v batteries for around $130, or you can go online and look for a group 2L battery for less. Tom
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| butchbov | -- 07-30-2012 @ 10:38 AM |
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There's a ton of knowledge on this site & if you want answers to anything pertaining to Ford systems the way Henry built them this is the place to go. However, they focus on originality, so they won’t advocate changing those systems. In my opinion if you want to maintain originality stay 6v, but if you think you'll want to modernize your car by adding things like a radio, A/C, etc, then go 12v. I drive a 49 Ford Club Coupe w/flathead v8 & 12v system and haven’t had any problems in the 5 years since I converted. And I’m running the a stock 6v wiring harness and the starter, starter solenoid & starter button that were on the car when I bought it. I also have added AM/FM radio, A/C & LED brake lights w/blue dots. As for the gauges, I run the stock gauges supplemented by aftermarket temp gauges in each head. The stock gauges are powered through a NAPA/Echlin IR1 voltage reducer that takes care of all them. Here’s a list of bulbs. Lamp___________________6v #__________12v # Headlights_____________6006__________6014 Front turn signal______1154__________1157 Rear stop & turn_______1154__________1157 Interior courtesy______63____________97 License plate__________63____________97 Clock__________________55____________57 Heater control_________55____________57 Dash instruments_______55____________57 Inst. turn indicators__51____________53 Hi beam indicator______51____________53 I’m guessing, but I think you should be able to convert for around $200.00 I average about 8K miles/yr & just passed mile 37,000 Post your question over on http://www.shoeboxford.com/ & then compare your answers.
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| supereal | -- 07-30-2012 @ 2:29 PM |
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For those contemplating installing an alternator in place of the generator. avoid the common one wire type. They depend on residual magnetism to kick the unit on. Look for the two wire kind. One wire is the output to the battery, and the other connects to the coil side of the ignition switch. This will "wake up" the alternator immediately. Some modern cars also use a "sense" wire to the battery to trigger charging before the battery voltage declines.
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| Henryat1140 | -- 07-31-2012 @ 7:25 PM |
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Hope it's not too late. . . (for you to spend $150 on a battery) Napa has 6V batteries and I believe Tractor Supply as well. We use the NAPA one, $92.00. I'm with the other guys on retaining the 6V system. Good advice has been given, especially the part about making/keeping ALL connections CLEAN, SHINY and TIGHT.
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| MG | -- 07-31-2012 @ 7:32 PM |
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Henry, Are these Group 2L batteries from NAPA and Tractor Supply? Can you give me the NAPA Part number? No Tractor Supply in my area.
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| supereal | -- 07-31-2012 @ 8:35 PM |
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I know the Optima seems an extravagance, but it isn't what you pay, but how often you pay it ! I have one that I replaced after seven years in my convertible, and now we use it on the bench to test when six volts is required. I've had lots of common lead acid batteries over the past sixty years, but none lasted more than four years before a load test showed a steep loss in cold cranking power.
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