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Discussion Topic:
clutch slip
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DriverDan |
06-27-2012 @ 3:24 PM
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Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have a standard 39 coupe restored to stock. The clutch slips, have lots of free pedal. Newly ground flywheel, disc, pressure plate. Maybe I did something stupid like reverse the disc (I don't think so). Main shaft of the transmission not throwing fluid-replace the seal. Any ideas how to figure this out? Thanks.
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supereal |
06-27-2012 @ 7:05 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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When you say "lots of free pedal" how much is that? The proper amount is about an inch or slightly more. If you have more than that, it is likely due to a problem with the release bearing, it's fork, shaft, or linkage. The arms of the pressure plate move outward by centrifugal force as speed increases. That is why free pedal travel is required.
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DriverDan |
06-29-2012 @ 5:22 AM
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Member
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks Supereal. I set free pedal to 1 and 1/2 inches and the clutch slipped. Set it to about 2 and 1/2 and it didn't slip for about ten miles; now it slips like before. Not really sure what I should be looking for-everything as to the fork, release bearing, etc. looks good. If you have any ideas I would really appreciate it. Dan
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deuce_roadster |
06-29-2012 @ 7:36 AM
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If the pressure plate is new (or even rebuilt) it might have been put together with the wrong or weak springs. It took me a long time to get over thinking that because something was new it was "good". I would think if your disk was in backwards the clutch wouldn't release.
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TomO |
06-29-2012 @ 8:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7278
Joined: Oct 2009
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There is a small plate on the top of the transmission. Remove it and observe the action of the clutch mechanism. Your pedal should move about 1" before the throwout bearing contacts the fingers. Make sure that the throwout bearing holder flat spots are where the clutch release fork contacts the holder.
Tom
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DriverDan |
06-30-2012 @ 9:58 AM
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Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Oct 2009
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Any idea where I can find out which color of spring has more strength? I haven't found anything that tells. Thanks! Dan
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supereal |
06-30-2012 @ 1:59 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As a practical matter, replacing pressure plate springs is not a "do it yourself" proposition. Setting up a pressure plate requires a special fixture. In considering your problem, It is possible the pressure plate doesn't match the clutch disk. There are three clutch sizes used between 1932 and 1956, 9", 10", and 11", which is a truck item. The pressure plate and clutch disk must be matched in size. Having a 9" disk in a 10" pressure plate could account for your problem. When mounting a pressure plate to the flywheel, care must be given to bolt it down evenly by turning the bolts a bit at a time going around the perimeter of the plate. This prevents bending the housing. Most pressure plates are shipped with removable wedges that hold the plate back until it is in place, then they are removed. If they aren't removed, the clutch will not grip the disk. Given the fact that many parts vendors don't know what is correct for which vehicle, you may have been sold the wrong type. All pressure plates bear the number 7563, the disk, 7550. The 9" plate for your car carries the prefix 09A for the 9" plate with springs colored brown. If, by chance, you have a 10" plate, the springs will be blue. The disk will have a prefix of 91A when used with the 09A plate. Determining correct clutch parts can be difficult, given the large variety used. The only likely reason you are having the problem is that the wrong parts were provided, or the wedges were not removed. Over the years, clutches were often replaced, so the car may have received an improper one at some time. You will have to remove your clutch and check the numbers.
This message was edited by supereal on 6-30-12 @ 2:03 PM
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Stroker |
06-30-2012 @ 3:36 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Super: I wonder just how many so-called "automotive machine shops" that exist today have the appropriate fixture(s) to properly set-up a pressure plate? We used to have one locally, but they converted their shop into additional "weekend-warrior" space to merchandise their growing inventory of "mouse milk"*. Driver Dan may have to send his pressure plate to a specialist such as Ft. Wayne Clutch in order to have anyone with a clue working on it. It is a growing trend, and a disturbing one in my book. Setting up a clutch is NOT rocket science, but you have to have the tools! *mouse milk: Products that promise to stop oil burning, tire cracking, paint fading, lifter noise, bad mileage, gear noise, overheating....ad-nauseum.
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supereal |
06-30-2012 @ 7:48 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Good one, Stroker. I think his problems don't center on pressure plate springs.. I'm betting on a parts mismatch. I have yet to see a faulty pressure plate, even though my faith in the integrity of new parts is not high. Nothing here adds up except the parts are wrong.
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40 Coupe |
07-01-2012 @ 7:33 AM
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Posts: 1704
Joined: Oct 2009
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There has been a lot of problems with the new pressure plates offered by some suppliers. Your pressure plate should have three fly weights on the outside of housing. These weights increase the amount of pressure on the clutch plate by 3 fold when the RPMs are increased. The weights can be seen by removing the inspection cover.
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