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Discussion Topic:
Afraid to Press Starter Button
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Dolman |
09-13-2011 @ 12:18 PM
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New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: Dec 2010
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Just installed Skip Haney's good work. I think I have the distributor tang in the slot but not certain. The rotor won't turn either way except for a very very slight movement back and forth. I found the slot with the mounting bolts loose. I know that no one can guarantee my work, but would like some reassurance because I am admittingly not a Ford mechanic...but I'm learning. ('34 pickup)
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ford38v8 |
09-13-2011 @ 12:31 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2774
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you were able to get your distributor in position flat up against the block before any bolts were installed, then you've got it right. If it required cinching any of the bolts to draw it down to the block, the damage may have alrready have been done.
Alan
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Dolman |
09-13-2011 @ 12:43 PM
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New Member
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Thanks for the comfort. The distributor was indeed flat against the block and I was able to run the bolts all the way in with my fingers. Then a final tightening with a wrench, The capacitor, excuse me, condenser, gave me fits getting it lined up. Now I have that rock charted and also feel proficient in laproscopic surgery.
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JM |
09-13-2011 @ 12:50 PM
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Senior
Posts: 823
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Use your hand crank or a large socket, long extension and strong bar and turn the engine slowly at the crank pulley nut with ignition switch off and transmission out of gear. You could take one distributor cap and inner terminal cap assembly off so you can see if rotor is turning. If you can easily do four revolutions of the crank shaft and distributor rotor makes one complete revolution, you should be good to go. JM
This message was edited by JM on 9-13-11 @ 12:53 PM
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Stroker |
09-13-2011 @ 1:48 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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JM: I think you meant to say 2 revolutions of the crank, for one revolution of the rotor. Unless of course Dolman is running on of Bus Shaller's quarter speed racing cams from the early 60's. Dolman: I believe that as Alan said; if you were able to turn the bolts in finger tight, you've got it!
This message was edited by Stroker on 9-13-11 @ 2:27 PM
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Dolman |
09-13-2011 @ 2:51 PM
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New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: Dec 2010
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Don't have a hand crank and I doubt that I ever will. Got smacked too many times in my youth by a Model A. I like the idea of using a socket and long bar. If my 1/2" socket bar is too wimpy, I can alway slip a piece of pipe over it. If I find pieces of the rotor in the bottom of the distributor housing...well, I still have Skip's address. Can't try it now because I accepted a consulting job to generate cash for the pickup's insatiable appetite for parts.
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supereal |
09-13-2011 @ 2:57 PM
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Posts: 6819
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As said, if the mounting bolts all fit and the distributor was flat against the timing gear cover, you are OK, and don't need to check to see if the rotor is turning. The drive tang is offset to prevent getting it wrong. A small bit of play is normal between the tang and the distributor. The shaft is held in place as it turns. That was one of Ford's better ideas!
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Dolman |
09-13-2011 @ 3:02 PM
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New Member
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I agree. It was a good idea. But it would have been better if there was an additional 4 inches between the distributor and the radiator. By the way. I don't remember who recommended using studs to support it while getting one bolt in, but that was a marvelous idea. Thanks to whoever you were or are.
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ford38v8 |
09-13-2011 @ 3:44 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2774
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dolman, I don't think anyone here can take credit for that tip. It's been around as long as the V8 has been around. I didn't mention it only for the purpose of clarity in my answer. That tip usually is given along with the tip of using a piece of cardboard to protect your knuckles from the radiator, and the radiator from the distributor and wrenches.
Alan
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Dolman |
09-13-2011 @ 4:07 PM
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New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: Dec 2010
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I used the cardboard shield so the back of the radiator and my knuckles are nearly pristine.
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