| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 12:18 PM |
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Just installed Skip Haney's good work. I think I have the distributor tang in the slot but not certain. The rotor won't turn either way except for a very very slight movement back and forth. I found the slot with the mounting bolts loose. I know that no one can guarantee my work, but would like some reassurance because I am admittingly not a Ford mechanic...but I'm learning. ('34 pickup)
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-13-2011 @ 12:31 PM |
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If you were able to get your distributor in position flat up against the block before any bolts were installed, then you've got it right. If it required cinching any of the bolts to draw it down to the block, the damage may have alrready have been done. Alan
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 12:43 PM |
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Thanks for the comfort. The distributor was indeed flat against the block and I was able to run the bolts all the way in with my fingers. Then a final tightening with a wrench, The capacitor, excuse me, condenser, gave me fits getting it lined up. Now I have that rock charted and also feel proficient in laproscopic surgery.
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| JM | -- 09-13-2011 @ 12:50 PM |
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Use your hand crank or a large socket, long extension and strong bar and turn the engine slowly at the crank pulley nut with ignition switch off and transmission out of gear. You could take one distributor cap and inner terminal cap assembly off so you can see if rotor is turning. If you can easily do four revolutions of the crank shaft and distributor rotor makes one complete revolution, you should be good to go. JM This message was edited by JM on 9-13-11 @ 12:53 PM
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| Stroker | -- 09-13-2011 @ 1:48 PM |
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JM: I think you meant to say 2 revolutions of the crank, for one revolution of the rotor. Unless of course Dolman is running on of Bus Shaller's quarter speed racing cams from the early 60's. Dolman: I believe that as Alan said; if you were able to turn the bolts in finger tight, you've got it! This message was edited by Stroker on 9-13-11 @ 2:27 PM
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 2:51 PM |
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Don't have a hand crank and I doubt that I ever will. Got smacked too many times in my youth by a Model A. I like the idea of using a socket and long bar. If my 1/2" socket bar is too wimpy, I can alway slip a piece of pipe over it. If I find pieces of the rotor in the bottom of the distributor housing...well, I still have Skip's address. Can't try it now because I accepted a consulting job to generate cash for the pickup's insatiable appetite for parts.
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| supereal | -- 09-13-2011 @ 2:57 PM |
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As said, if the mounting bolts all fit and the distributor was flat against the timing gear cover, you are OK, and don't need to check to see if the rotor is turning. The drive tang is offset to prevent getting it wrong. A small bit of play is normal between the tang and the distributor. The shaft is held in place as it turns. That was one of Ford's better ideas!
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 3:02 PM |
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I agree. It was a good idea. But it would have been better if there was an additional 4 inches between the distributor and the radiator. By the way. I don't remember who recommended using studs to support it while getting one bolt in, but that was a marvelous idea. Thanks to whoever you were or are.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-13-2011 @ 3:44 PM |
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Dolman, I don't think anyone here can take credit for that tip. It's been around as long as the V8 has been around. I didn't mention it only for the purpose of clarity in my answer. That tip usually is given along with the tip of using a piece of cardboard to protect your knuckles from the radiator, and the radiator from the distributor and wrenches. Alan
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 4:07 PM |
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I used the cardboard shield so the back of the radiator and my knuckles are nearly pristine.
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 6:21 PM |
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It runs! Must have found the slot. I took it out for a 20 mile drive and it intermittently spits at all speeds but is more frequent between 40 and 50mph after it warms up. Now I'm at a loss as to what to look for and fix. It has a Skip Haney re-built distributor, new inner caps, new plug wires, new spark advance tube. I'm thinking that one or more of the plug wires is not completely seated in an inner cap. Had a difficult time mashing them all down so that the outer caps would fit flush. I hope you gurus can send me down the right path.
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| supereal | -- 09-13-2011 @ 7:36 PM |
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You didn't mention replacing the spark plugs. Intermittent missing is typical of old or fouled plugs. We use Champion RJ14YC in my '47. They have a long snout which tends to burn cleaner than the usual H-10 plugs. We gap them at .028
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| Dolman | -- 09-13-2011 @ 8:33 PM |
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Will the RJ14YC work OK in a '34? And thanks for staying up late.
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 7:41 AM |
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The RJ is a good replacement for the H-10, but probably will not work in the very early engines. In any case, a new set of plugs should help with the intermittent skip, as you have a distributor in top shape. As for staying up, I usually look at the site on my I Pad at the end of the day to see what is happening on the coasts. Usually, if you have a problem, you need a suggestion for a "fix" ASAP. we night owls are happy to oblige.
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| Dolman | -- 09-14-2011 @ 11:15 AM |
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Good counsel, Dr. Super. I had a vision of the pistons impaled by the plugs. Maybe someone with an early V8 will come on with a recommendation. Your dedication to the club is commendable. As to ASAPs, I have none having learned that a rush job could result in a smoking circuit, electrocution or worse. I grew up on a ranch where we went to bed when the chickens went to roost and arose to the obnoxious rooster announcing that he was still in control. Habits are hard to break, so here in Alaska I sleep about 4-6 hours in the summer and 18-20 hours during the winter. A bit of exaggeration but the principle is valid.
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 11:20 AM |
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Thanks for your kind words. Like most near octogenarians, sleep is often abbreviated, and we have to fill the hours somehow.
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 11:20 AM |
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Thanks for your kind words. Like most near octogenarians, sleep is often abbreviated, and we have to fill the hours somehow.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-14-2011 @ 11:54 AM |
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...and sometimes we repeat ourselves! Alan
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| Dolman | -- 09-14-2011 @ 12:02 PM |
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Being a septuagenarian, I let the repeat slide. I went down stairs. Why am I here? What was I looking for?
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| 39FORDPU | -- 09-14-2011 @ 2:48 PM |
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Been there, Done that. Then when you go back outside you remember what you wanted and go back in.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-14-2011 @ 3:01 PM |
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That's how I get my excercise. I have 18 stairs between my house and the garage. Alan
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| Henryat1140 | -- 09-14-2011 @ 3:19 PM |
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We've just been down the path of replacing a coil on the side of the road. The condenser ground tang mounts on the upper right distributor bolt on our 36. If this is the item you mentioned as giving you fits, then we have discovered a good improvement to that. We use a 1/2" Flex head, stubby, ratcheting wrench. It can get to that bolt like no other. We happened on to a good deal on wrenches by visiting the Fordbarn sister site Garage Journal. We hooked up with a guy who had several used but like new sets of ratcheting wrenches for sale at a good price. (Jeremy Theys) Just passing along the tip. Henry
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| Henryat1140 | -- 09-14-2011 @ 3:21 PM |
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We've just had the experience of replacing a coil on the side of the road. The condenser ground tang mounts on the upper right distributor bolt on our 36. If this is the item you mentioned as giving you fits, then we have discovered a good improvement to that. We use a 1/2" Flex head, stubby, ratcheting wrench. It can get to that bolt like no other. We happened on to a good deal on wrenches by visiting the Fordbarn sister site Garage Journal. We hooked up with a guy who had several used but like new sets of ratcheting wrenches for sale at a good price. (Jeremy Theys) Just passing along the tip. Henry
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| Henryat1140 | -- 09-14-2011 @ 3:23 PM |
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Sorry for the duplicate post.
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| Dolman | -- 09-14-2011 @ 4:52 PM |
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Thanks, Henry. The condenser is anchored down tight now and it's never coming off again! My aggravation was getting the hole in the condenser positive lead lined up with the bolt hole. I unscr*w*d the negative end to turn it, shove it and cuss at it. I finally got a little bit smart, cinched up the barrel of the condenser and twisted the lead until it was flat against the mounting flange. Then uscr*w*d the positive end, stuck a bolt in the lead and wiggled it around until I got the bolt to catch the threads in the timing cover. Then anchored the barrel again. Now that was lot of changing sides and opening and closing what I call the flaps. There is probably a clothes pin to keep both sides open at the same time. If not, I am going to invent one. I have a nearly complete shop that I have been advised by my friends to not use because I shouldn't be around anything sharp, pointed hot, heavy, rotating, sliding, hinged, electrical or floating. They also said something about women but I didn't hear them clearly. So in the meantime I have 3 gallons of seawater to demonstrate its electrolite properties. So far I am generating 800 millivolts in a single cell pint fruit jar using a flattened piece of copper pipe and 3 zinc galvanized nails. (By the way seawater has a specific density greater than unpolluted fresh water.) If I connect 8 of those cells in series, I will have a spare 6.4 volt battery that I think will weigh less than a lead acid battery and improve my fuel economy. The cranking amps will be around 1, so that gives me another challenge in achieving an alternative energy source that I can patent and cause Al Gore to dance an Irish jig. If your thinking Rube Goldberg is in my family tree, you're correct. What were we talking about in my original post?
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 5:17 PM |
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The condenser operates just fine as long as the case is grounded, and the terminal is attached to the coil input. I carry a spare condenser in my road kit. It is in a plastic pill bottle with a pair of clip leads attached to it. It won't help if the condenser goes short, but it will get you home if it goes open and mimics a fuel problem. It is cheap to make,as well. I know that many old car owners don't quite trust their cars to get back home. This spare condenser should help you have more confidence, and have fun with your car.
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 5:20 PM |
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Dolman and Alan: whomever uttered the words "golden years" surely had never been there! It ain't gold, it is rust!
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| Dolman | -- 09-14-2011 @ 5:47 PM |
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Yep, at my age it's patch, patch, patch. Super,at your age it's do without. The "Golden Years" are between 25 and maybe 40. After 40, we are on the slippery slope where time passes by at an exponential rate.
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| supereal | -- 09-14-2011 @ 8:34 PM |
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I'll tell that to my "kids". At the tender ages of 56, 53,and 52 they should be amused (or discouraged).
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| TomO | -- 09-15-2011 @ 7:52 AM |
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IMHO the medical profession invented the term "Golden Years" as that is where they get most of their money. Tom
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| supereal | -- 09-15-2011 @ 9:46 AM |
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Amen, Brother Tom, amen!
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| Norm | -- 09-16-2011 @ 6:02 PM |
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As I tell my friends - "Don't get old! It's hard on your body!" And I'm only a septuagenarian. That means 17, right? Norm
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