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Discussion Topic:
Holley replacing Stromberg
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parrish |
02-22-2011 @ 5:49 PM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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On a 36 manifold, can a Holley be substituted for the original Stromberg without causing flange distortion or manifold leaks?
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Stroker |
02-22-2011 @ 6:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes.
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parrish |
02-23-2011 @ 7:53 AM
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Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks Stroker! I have a problematic 34 Stromberg (stripped shoulder bolts among it's issues)on my 36 and also have a 38 or so Holley from a LONG time ago. The Holley has a problem with the throttle plates and I think that Vintage Speed has an aluminum replacement base that would solve the issue...seem reasonable?
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Stroker |
02-23-2011 @ 8:46 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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I'd see if I could repair the Stromberg first, as it is correct to the motor. I definitely would avoid simply bolting on an aluminum throttle body on the 94. In addition, the ancient 94 will undoubtedly need a new fuel-resistant power valve, which I'm sure Vintage Speed stocks.
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supereal |
02-23-2011 @ 10:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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It is interesting that the the iconic Stromberg 97 carb is now being reproduced, with some improvements incorporated. They are pricey, but will provide the authentic appearance important to many.
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Dolman |
02-23-2011 @ 1:37 PM
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New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: Dec 2010
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This discussion caused me to go to the garage and see what sort of carburetor is on my 34 pickup. It has a Ford script on one side and Model 59 on the other. Now I think I know why the the choke and throttle knobs have 1 1/4 inch of exposed rod when fully pushed in. Googled Model 59 and found that the carb was used on the 46-48 models which are 239 cu. in. as opposed to the 221 cu. in. in the 32-38 models. The engine is not later than 1936 because the water pumps are on the heads. Dr. Supereal, should I replace the carburetor or shorten the dash control rods? Of course the knobs are epoxied to the rods so I know I will be replacing those if I do shorten the rods.
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supereal |
02-23-2011 @ 3:15 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks for the promotion. When we shorten the throttle and choke rods, we try to remove the rods from the crimped joint on the flex piece and cut them to fit. If that doesn't work we fit a piece of tubing over the rod and braze it together. Altering the rods is cheaper than swapping carbs. The original 40-9510-D '34 carb was replaced "in service" by the 59A later carb, and does require some adapting of the rods, even though the later carb is correct, unless you are a purist.
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Dolman |
02-23-2011 @ 3:54 PM
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New Member
Posts: 177
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Dr. Supereal, no purist here. Function trumps form. As to brazing, my results always look like a digestively distressed chicken passed by, but I'll try it one more time. The breadth and depth of your knowledge and experience and the quantity and quality of which you freely share in this forum suggested to me that you should at least be awarded an honorary PHD.
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flatheadfan |
02-24-2011 @ 1:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 450
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dolman- As an alternate to brazing you may want to consider just cutting the shaft and threading the ends and use a turnbuckle to connect the two rod pieces back together. This allows you to remove the rod from the dash without having to butcher it or make whatever length adjustments you need to accommodate different carbs. Tom
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Dolman |
02-24-2011 @ 7:05 AM
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New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: Dec 2010
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That's a good idea, Tom. It would overcome my tendency to measure twice, cut once and still have to get another board.
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