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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Holley replacing Stromberg

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Holley replacing Stromberg -- page: 1 2     MG 02-25-2011 @ 3:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1254 Joined: Nov 2009 The correct Stromberg for the '34 Ford Model Year was the Stromberg '48'. I'm not sure, but I think the '97' was introduced in 1937...... supereal 02-25-2011 @ 3:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom: Good idea. We have used sleeves with set screws on the ends, but I don't recall where we got them. For those wondering about Stromberg vs Holley, our new Jegg's catalog arrived yesterday, and the "94" carb is also now being reproed with some improvements, but at $400 a pop, you would really want one. We used 97's in my stock car racing days, as we could easily swap jets between heats. I still have my homemade T handle wrench. flatheadfan 02-25-2011 @ 10:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob- I agree that turnbuckles have a left and right thread. To get around this problem you just buy a turnbuckle that has a hole slightly smaller than the rod being used. Drill out the turnbuckle to accommodate the larger diameter control rod. Then tap a right-hand thread on each end to match the freshly cut threads on the rods. Just put everything together and adjust the turnbuckle (now acting as an adjusting sleeve). Add a lock washer and nut on each end of the "adjusting sleeve" and you are done. If you get a chance take a look at the picture I posted with my earlier response. Incidentally, doing it this way also allows you to make a perfect alignment of the wording on the knob ends. I have done this many times. It is easy to do and works great. Tom supereal 02-25-2011 @ 9:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Some rods, probably later, have rubber "knees" between the firewall and the carb. Looks like either a cut and braze or threading for a turnbuckle. The problem with that approach is that one end of a turnbuckle has left hand threads, and not many dies sets have them. If you don't want to braze a sleeve, you can always drill both ends and pin them, or use a small cotter. Dolman 02-24-2011 @ 11:06 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 177 Joined: Dec 2010 Jerry, you made me think of doing S turns on final approach to give another airplane time to clear the runway. It would require Z bends to get them short enough. I guess I could then call them "impedence" rods. I have an extensive tap and die set so I will probably do the turnbuckle suggestion. jerry.grayson 02-24-2011 @ 10:44 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 128 Joined: Oct 2009 He was thinking about later model rods. Yes, your 36 rods are one piece from knob to carburetor, so some people just bend a slight "S" shape in the rod somewhere in the middle if you don't want to go to the trouble of shortening them. Dolman 02-24-2011 @ 10:41 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 177 Joined: Dec 2010 Proud Papa, The rods are continuous from the knobs in the cab to the ball socket connections on the carburetor levers. The only rubber I see are the grommets in the dash. supereal 02-24-2011 @ 10:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Dolman: If you are shortening the rods, you won't have to braze them if you do it at the rubber joints. The rods are staked in place, and with a bit of pursuasion, they will come out. If you are careful, the rod can be pulled out of the rubber if you apply some heat to the rubber. We use an old hair dryer for that purpose where a heat gun would be overkill. As to the PhD, my daughter has a genuine PhD (and a couple of Masters) and says it really stands for "push here, dummy". She is a university professor, and my computer "guru" who keep me from scr*w*ng up my system. TomO 02-24-2011 @ 7:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 I always end up with a board that is too short even when I cut it twice. Tom Dolman 02-24-2011 @ 7:05 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 177 Joined: Dec 2010 That's a good idea, Tom. It would overcome my tendency to measure twice, cut once and still have to get another board.

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