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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '47 Flat head V8

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '47 Flat head V8

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cdeac47
08-13-2021 @ 6:38 PM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Apr 2020
          
About 2 weeks drove the car on an 85 degree day and the drive was long enough to get the drivetrain up to normal operating temps. I turned off the engine and attempted to restart it with the starter button and all I got was a muted pop noise and no crank, it sounded like it came from the lower front end of the car. I checked the battery connections and found them loose and I cinched them up and the engine started fine. A week or two later I drove it for 20 minutes on a 90+ degree day and turned the engine off and 2 minutes later I went to restart it and that same muted pop noise and no crank came back. After I let it sit for about 5 minutes the engine started up as normal. The battery connections were tight from the last time. This pop noise seems to happen when the engine is hot because when it's cold or moderately warm the engine starts right up.

Two possible issues come to mind; the first is vapor lock, however the engine never stalls and runs smooth under hot or cold conditions so I am less inclined to think that is the issue. The starter wire and/or the terminals from the battery to starter are corroded and building up too much resistance combined with heat causing the starter not to work. Because after 3 -5 minutes letting the electrical components cool down the engine fires right up again.

Is my thinking right or is there something I am missing?

This message was edited by cdeac47 on 8-13-21 @ 9:08 PM

FordFreak
08-14-2021 @ 6:08 AM
New Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Nov 2013
          
I would check out that starter cable next. - F F

1937 Ford Coupe
1952 Ford F1 Pickup
1965 Falcon Sprint

fsacht
08-15-2021 @ 1:01 PM
Member
Posts: 71
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Your pop is not fuel related. Vapor lock makes no noise. Loose battery cable connections makes sense. you have four terminals to secure. You have a cable from negative battery post to starter solenoid, that's 2 . A cable from solenoid down to starter motor that makes 4 total. Make sure all four are secure. Also, I have had starter motor terminals that rotated while securing the cable nut. I'd remove the cable from the starter and check the stud for loose to starter as well. If loose the spark will jump those gaps and pop.

cdeac47
08-16-2021 @ 7:49 AM
Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Apr 2020
          
"vapor lock makes no noise" good point! So I guess I was on the right track. I will check and secure those connections at the starter and solenoid.

JayChicago
08-16-2021 @ 8:24 AM
Member
Posts: 492
Joined: Jan 2016
          
And I would suggest doing the same on the ground side of the electrical circuit:
Follow the battery’s positive cable down to where it attaches to engine to make sure is clean and tight.

supereal
08-16-2021 @ 8:38 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The starter is placed very close to the exhaust manifold, and as a result, gets very hot. This causes a rise in the resistance of the windings, limiting current. If the starter bushings are worn, it can cause the armature to pulled into contact with the pole shoes causing a drag. When the ambient temp rises, starting can become difficult. The cure is a new or rebuilt unit.

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