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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brake Drum installation

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Discussion Topic: Brake Drum installation

lance99

03-27-2018 @ 11:54 AM

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I'm a newbie. First post.

I inherited my Dad's '48 Ford Sedan and just replaced front wheel cylinders, hoses and shoes. Was a real mess. Dad had an old 3 pronged drum puller which worked well. Had to use the puller to drive the drum off the spindle.

I now re- install the drum but don't think it is pushed in sufficiently. I tighten the castle nut to 150 ft-lbs (max on my torque wrench) and seems like way too much pre-load on the bearings. Cant imagine what it would be like at the prescribed 220 ft-lbs. I loosen the castle nut again and the drum can be removed by hand without the puller.

Any guidance? How can I tell if the drum is pushed on far enough?

Thanks!

FordFreak

03-27-2018 @ 12:28 PM

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I believe that torque spec is for the rear drums .

supereal

03-27-2018 @ 1:45 PM

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To reassemble the front hub, be sure the brake on that wheel is backed off. Pack both bearings with the proper wheel bearing grease, and place the inner bearing in the cup and install the grease seal with the lip facing inward, and drive it into place until the outer face if the seal is flush with the hub. Place the hub into place and reinstall the outer bearing, keyed washer, and the castellated nut. Tighten the nut firmly to seat the bearings in their cups and rotate the hub until no resistance is felt. Place the cotter pin through the nut and spindle, and clip off the excess part of the legs before you tap the dust cap into place. When I was a Ford dealer's mechanic many years ago, that was the way we approached the job. In practice, we didn't use a torque wrench for most of the jobs, including the cylinder head nuts. That may seem strange, but the vehicles we repaired were dependable and long lasting.

sarahcecelia

04-02-2018 @ 12:07 PM

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the drum will go on the axle easily and stop when it is seated. Tighen the nut just enough so you can't wobble the drum (lightly snug) and then back off to the first cotter pin hole. insert the cotter pin, bend one tab over, cut the other tab off enough to put the grease cap on, and put the grease cap on with a rubber mallet so as not to dent it up. (you can also tap it on with a screw driver blade using thr rolled edge on the grease cap if you don't have a rubber mallet.) These are tapered roller bearings and as such, not meant to be too tight; whereas ball bearings usually require a little pre-load.)

Regards, Steve Lee

blarge

04-06-2018 @ 10:02 AM

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I had the same problem on my 48 Mercury brakes, both front and rear. The drums are in good shape and cut only .020 in the front and .035 in the rear.
After 3 sets of linings from C&G, I came to the conclusion that the shoes are oversize. I put the original shoes back on and gave up on the new linings. Bill Large

woodiewagon46

04-06-2018 @ 11:31 AM

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If you already maxed out your torque wrench to over 150 ft lbs. you may want to check and make sure you didn't damage the bearings.

supereal

04-08-2018 @ 1:56 PM

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Using a three legged puller instead of the type that locks onto the hub can result in distortion of the drum. The Winfield version of the K.R. Wilson puller should be in the tool box of everyone who needs to pull the rear hubs and drums for service.

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