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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / What oil should i use ?

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thunder road

12-30-2016 @ 8:41 AM

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Calling all gear heads to look at this on the computer and let me know your advice. Go to ; myvintageiron7512 what oil should I use. This guy knows what he is talking about. Joe Gibbs break in oil for 500- to 1000 miles , then Joe Gibbs racing oil after that. He explains how it only takes 20 minutes to destroy your motor. The detergent in the oil washes away the zinc. I have been using Valvoline 10-30 syn -tec blend or Valvoline 10-30 full synthetic. I will add a bottle of zzd zinc additive , and also about half a quart of Lucas motor oil treatment. If the Valvoline has high detergent maybe it's not good. I am going to call the ZZD zinc company, and see what they say. My friend uses Amsoil high zinc oil And Hemming also sells an oil for old cars with the zinc.The Question is if the detergent washes away the zinc benefit , then it seems to me I have to find out where they sell the Joe Gibbs racing oil , and go back to the Rissole when and if needed. I belive that the newer or tighter the engine is the more damage will be caused with the metal eating up your bearings. Once an engine has 30,000 miles or so it probably doesn't matter too much? Any help . Dom

This message was edited by thunder road on 12-30-16 @ 8:43 AM

JT Ford

12-30-2016 @ 8:45 AM

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If you'r comparing a Nascar racing oil to a flathead, good luck with that! Most any oil you can buy today at Walmart has plenty of zinc to use in a stock flathead engine.

This message was edited by JT Ford on 12-30-16 @ 8:46 AM

trjford8

12-30-2016 @ 9:59 AM

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I use Quaker State Defy which has added zinc. A five quart bottle is about $15 at Walmart.

thunder road

12-30-2016 @ 1:36 PM

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No I am not comparing Nascar racing oil to a flathead. Please watch the video first at: myvintageiron7512 " what oil should I use" then let me know if the detergent in" any "motor oil will counter the benefits of the zinc by washing it away from the vital parts in a flat tappet motor.

rebrown

12-30-2016 @ 2:30 PM

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I just got my 21-stud "Stroker" engine back from H and H Flathead and they recommend Valvoline VR1 20-50. It runs about $28 and change at O'Rielly's or a bit more at Napa.

tonys1950

12-30-2016 @ 8:06 PM

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Valvoline vr1 20w50 is the best to use,as racing oil with zinc, joe gibbs is good also as its kendal oil. With the low valve spring pressure a flathead v8 has, its not as critical as a higher spring rate application. have to watch some of the diesel oils as they now have low zinc as well.

Grant

12-31-2016 @ 5:09 AM

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We use Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 oil in our '36, '50, '51 and '52. Seems to work very well. All have stock flathead V8 engines.

O'Reilly's sells it for about $7.00 a quart .

thunder road

12-31-2016 @ 7:29 AM

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Thank you very much for the info for the oil for the 40 flathead. We don't seem to have O"rielly's auto part's near us, but we do have NAPA auto parts. The 65 289- k- code has solid lifters and has 10.5:1 compression. In that I have been using Valvoline 10-30 full synthetic with about half a quart of Lucas, and the ZZD zinc additive . After hearing the myvintageiron7512 guy I want to find out if the detergent in the Valvoline is washing off the zinc? The car dose not get used that much but it runs really well with this oil and 93 sunoco

This message was edited by thunder road on 12-31-16 @ 10:10 AM

mhsprecher

12-31-2016 @ 10:09 AM

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I am by no means an expert, but what detergent oil means is that the dirt is held in suspension and does not settle out like in non-detergent oils. Detergent "washing off" the zinc does not make sense. If so, that would happen in all detergent oils containing zinc.

The first attached link provides some information regarding the function of detergent in oils. It does discuss what happens to metals in the oil, which, logically, could happen to zinc in the oil, but then that would defeat the purpose of adding zinc to the oil in the first place. From everything I have read, zinc is not necessary for older engines, but if the engine rebuilder suggests using it, I would do as instructed. The attached Hemmings article talks about the use of more zinc for a brand new engine.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=258648
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/
https://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/

This message was edited by mhsprecher on 1-2-17 @ 4:53 PM

thunder road

12-31-2016 @ 10:53 AM

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First they lift" any " deposits from the surfaces from the surfaces of the engine to which they adhere to and then chemically combine to form a barrier film which keeps the deposits from coming out of suspension and coagulating. Question : do they also lift off the" zinc " deposits from the cam and lifters? when you watch; myvintageiron7512 what oil should I use, he seems to say that an early small block Chevrolet, or ford motor can be re-built using a roller cam and lifters and also roller rockers and says that the motor will have 2/3 less friction and also free up H.P. If this can be done I'm going to try it on the 289 -A- code 4 barrel mustang when I go to do the car in the near future , God willing . Dom

This message was edited by thunder road on 1-2-17 @ 5:50 AM

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