Topic: What oil should i use ?

thunder road	-- 12-30-2016 @ 8:41 AM
	Calling all gear heads to look at this on the computer and let me know your advice. Go to ; myvintageiron7512 what oil should I use. This guy knows what he is talking about. Joe Gibbs break in oil for 500- to 1000 miles , then Joe Gibbs racing oil after that. He explains how it only takes 20 minutes to destroy your motor. The detergent in the oil washes away the zinc. I have been using Valvoline 10-30 syn -tec blend or Valvoline 10-30 full synthetic. I will add a bottle of zzd zinc additive , and also about half a quart of Lucas motor oil treatment. If the Valvoline has high detergent maybe it's not good. I am going to call the ZZD zinc company, and see what they say. My friend uses Amsoil high zinc oil And Hemming also sells an oil for old cars with the zinc.The Question is if the detergent washes away the zinc benefit , then it seems to me I have to find out where they sell the Joe Gibbs racing oil , and go back to the Rissole when and if needed. I belive that the newer or tighter the engine is the more damage will be caused with the metal eating up your bearings. Once an engine has 30,000 miles or so it probably doesn't matter too much? Any help . Dom This message was edited by thunder road on 12-30-16 @ 8:43 AM
JT Ford	-- 12-30-2016 @ 8:45 AM
	If you'r comparing a Nascar racing oil to a flathead, good luck with that! Most any oil you can buy today at Walmart has plenty of zinc to use in a stock flathead engine. This message was edited by JT Ford on 12-30-16 @ 8:46 AM
trjford8	-- 12-30-2016 @ 9:59 AM
	I use Quaker State Defy which has added zinc. A five quart bottle is about $15 at Walmart.
thunder road	-- 12-30-2016 @ 1:36 PM
	No I am not comparing Nascar racing oil to a flathead. Please watch the video first at: myvintageiron7512 " what oil should I use" then let me know if the detergent in" any "motor oil will counter the benefits of the zinc by washing it away from the vital parts in a flat tappet motor.
rebrown	-- 12-30-2016 @ 2:30 PM
	I just got my 21-stud "Stroker" engine back from H and H Flathead and they recommend Valvoline VR1 20-50. It runs about $28 and change at O'Rielly's or a bit more at Napa.
tonys1950	-- 12-30-2016 @ 8:06 PM
	Valvoline vr1 20w50 is the best to use,as racing oil with zinc, joe gibbs is good also as its kendal oil. With the low valve spring pressure a flathead v8 has, its not as critical as a higher spring rate application. have to watch some of the diesel oils as they now have low zinc as well.
Grant	-- 12-31-2016 @ 5:09 AM
	We use Valvoline VR1 SAE 20W-50 oil in our '36, '50, '51 and '52. Seems to work very well. All have stock flathead V8 engines. O'Reilly's sells it for about $7.00 a quart .
thunder road	-- 12-31-2016 @ 7:29 AM
	Thank you very much for the info for the oil for the 40 flathead. We don't seem to have O"rielly's auto part's near us, but we do have NAPA auto parts. The 65 289- k- code has solid lifters and has 10.5:1 compression. In that I have been using Valvoline 10-30 full synthetic with about half a quart of Lucas, and the ZZD zinc additive . After hearing the myvintageiron7512 guy I want to find out if the detergent in the Valvoline is washing off the zinc? The car dose not get used that much but it runs really well with this oil and 93 sunoco This message was edited by thunder road on 12-31-16 @ 10:10 AM
mhsprecher	-- 12-31-2016 @ 10:09 AM
	I am by no means an expert, but what detergent oil means is that the dirt is held in suspension and does not settle out like in non-detergent oils. Detergent "washing off" the zinc does not make sense. If so, that would happen in all detergent oils containing zinc. The first attached link provides some information regarding the function of detergent in oils. It does discuss what happens to metals in the oil, which, logically, could happen to zinc in the oil, but then that would defeat the purpose of adding zinc to the oil in the first place. From everything I have read, zinc is not necessary for older engines, but if the engine rebuilder suggests using it, I would do as instructed. The attached Hemmings article talks about the use of more zinc for a brand new engine. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=258648 https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/ https://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/ This message was edited by mhsprecher on 1-2-17 @ 4:53 PM
thunder road	-- 12-31-2016 @ 10:53 AM
	First they lift" any " deposits from the surfaces from the surfaces of the engine to which they adhere to and then chemically combine to form a barrier film which keeps the deposits from coming out of suspension and coagulating. Question : do they also lift off the" zinc " deposits from the cam and lifters? when you watch; myvintageiron7512 what oil should I use, he seems to say that an early small block Chevrolet, or ford motor can be re-built using a roller cam and lifters and also roller rockers and says that the motor will have 2/3 less friction and also free up H.P. If this can be done I'm going to try it on the 289 -A- code 4 barrel mustang when I go to do the car in the near future , God willing . Dom This message was edited by thunder road on 1-2-17 @ 5:50 AM
MG	-- 12-31-2016 @ 12:54 PM
	Rissole???
thunder road	-- 12-31-2016 @ 1:16 PM
	Rislone is a product that the old timers told me about. They said every other oil change or so they put a quart of this stuff in with the oil and run it for 500 miles and then change the oil. This was back when oil had no detergent and would badly sledge up. I wonder if you only run your car 500-1000 miles a year and if you don't sit their and excessively idle and add unspent fuel into your oil, and change your oil every two years how dirty will non detergent oil get? Can you even buy non detergent oil anymore? This message was edited by thunder road on 1-2-17 @ 5:53 AM
mhsprecher	-- 12-31-2016 @ 1:49 PM
	Well, a roller cam and lifters will have less friction. Whether it is worth the effort and expense is another question I am nowhere near qualified to answer. I suspect someone has dyno tested a 289 with different levels of modifications, so the data should be out there somewhere.
MG	-- 12-31-2016 @ 2:06 PM
	Add a bottle of this stuff when you change your oil to put your mind at ease > https://rislone.com/product/3x-concentrated-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment/ "The clinging properties hold the oil to metal parts preventing wear and dry starts. Special additives also prevent oil thinning at high temperatures where normal oil fails. The ZDDP creates the sacrificial (disposable) layer on any component where metal to metal contact happens preventing the metal itself from being worn away. This high performance formula stabilizes the motor oil to insure against viscosity and thermal breakdown. It also reduces friction and wear, especially at start-up, helping to eliminate dry starts. Less friction means less wear and a cooler-running, longer lasting engine."
thunder road	-- 12-31-2016 @ 2:32 PM
	This is the company that was making that other stuff they use, to use to clean out the motors. Can't believe the guy said he's been using it for ten years , and I never seen or heard about it, it sounds great! thank you very much I am going to try it. Happy New year! Dom
TomO	-- 01-01-2017 @ 9:01 AM
	IMHO after market oil additives are not a good idea. The major oil companies do extensive testing on the oil and formulate it to reduce wear under extreme conditions. The additive companies just test their additive to make sure that it does what they claim with a generic oil. It may do nothing with certain brands of oil, it may reduce wear with other brands of oil or it may cause damage with other brands of oil. The ZDDP scare is just like the unleaded gas scare. High performance engines may need special oils, but most main stream engines will get along fine with a major brand of oil. The biggest promoters of these products are the ones that have them to sell. The 32-53 Ford engine are not stressed enough to warrant adding ZDDP to the oil. A Ferrari or a Porche racing engine could possibly need the extra protection. Some of the horror stories about engines being destroyed in a few miles are either fiction or the engines were not repaired properly and the mechanic needed an excuse. Finally if you have doubts about whether you oil is protecting you engine, send a sample of your used oil to be analyzed. If your oil does not have enough wear protection, the analysis will show excessive amounts of metal in the sample. Here is a link to an article on oil analysis. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-to-do-engine-oil-analysis.htm Tom
42merc	-- 01-02-2017 @ 6:24 AM
	Tom is right on with his take on oil use for our flatheads. Stock & mildly modified flatheads are very happy with an average over the counter motor oil. Extra ZDDP & $7.00 a quart oils are a waste of money in our world.
cliftford	-- 01-02-2017 @ 6:47 AM
	It's been said and is true that the cheapest oil available today is better than the best oil in the 1930s and 40s.
trjford8	-- 01-02-2017 @ 6:51 AM
	I agree with TomO and 42 Merc. Most over the counter oils will work just fine in a flathead. Today's oils are far superior to the oils of 40 or 50 years ago. This oil question has been bantered around for years and it still comes down to just using a good grade of over the counter oil from your local parts store or discount store.
supereal	-- 01-02-2017 @ 1:22 PM
	I have used Castrol 20W-50 for many years. An alternative is Sh*ll Rotella. It is designed for diesel use, and has high zinc content. Many, if not most, oil additives usually grease bucks out of your wallet. Synthetic oil isn't recommended by our shop. It is very good for modern engines, but tends to leak in old ones. Non synthetic oils are less expensive so frequent changes in lightly driven vehicles are a better choice IMHO.
thunder road	-- 01-04-2017 @ 3:47 AM
	Synthetic oil will not cause a leak, but it will find an exsisting leak better than regular oil. Newer synthetic oils from the last ten years will not harm your seals, this was the original synthetic type oils like " mobil 1" when it first came out. Even Hemmings puts out a synthetic oil for old cars. Synthetic oil will get their faster on start ups, and is superior to keeping the wear down over time. Dom Domenic This message was edited by thunder road on 1-4-17 @ 3:58 AM

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