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Posted By Discussion Topic: 40 Ford Std 2 dr steering box adjustment     dixiejak 09-11-2012 @ 2:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 22 Joined: Jul 2011 Hi Mike, I have my steering problem of excess slack in the steering wheel which makes it a thrill to drive. I have checked the play in the tie rod ends (none) and at the pitman arm (a little) and I thought I would try tackling adjusting the clearance between the roller and gear in the steering box. On looking at the steering box, where a large nut is on the cover, inside the nut, where there is normally a slotted adjusting screw, there is no slot to turn the stud once the nut is loosened, just a smooth end on the stud, flush with the top of the nut, and there is no dirt that has filled up a hidden slot. Is this a wrong box, or how would I go about adjusting the lash or play in the box otherwise. It has four cover bolts a little smaller than the main larger nut I am referring to, that I would assume is the adjustment nut. Can you help me with this deliemma? Thanks. dixiejak kubes40 09-11-2012 @ 2:52 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3394 Joined: Oct 2009 I hate to say this but I have never seen anything like you describe. I also can't imagine how it could have been assembled "upside - down". After you removed the nut, there is a "star washer" beneath that nut? That washer has a "key" on the inside diameter to lock the adjustment once made. Perhaps you can remove that washer and turn the bolt with a pliers??? It should not require too much effort to do so. Let me know. Can you send a picture? TomO 09-12-2012 @ 9:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Before you try to remove the play by adjusting the steering box, try this procedure to check where the play is coming from. Repair any problems before trying to adjust the box. Failure to do this may cause you to maladjust the box and damage the gears. Lock the steering wheel. Jack up one front wheel. With the wheels straight ahead, try to move it as if the wheel was making a turn. If you have any movement, check to see where it is, tie rod ends, drag link or pitman arm. Next, grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to rock it. If there is movement here, your king pin bushings are probably worn. Repeat these tests with the other wheel raised and the original on the ground Any movement that can be attributed to the drag link or tie rod ends needs to be repaired by replacing the ends or the drag link. Any movement at the pitman arm can be caused by an out of adjustment condition or wear in the box. Tom 40 Coupe 09-13-2012 @ 3:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1674 Joined: Oct 2009 The adjustment bolt head (inside the box) fits into a slot in the top of the sector shaft. When the bolt is turned with a screwdriver it can both raise or lower the shaft to properly mesh it's roller with the worm gear on the end of the steering shaft. I would disassemble the top of the box and do an inspection to see if the correct parts are installed. If the adjustment bolt is correct otherwise, a screwdriver slot can be ground in the end of the bolt with a hand grinder, and assembled and adjusted. supereal 09-13-2012 @ 10:45 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Be aware that adjusting the gear mesh of a steering gear is a complicated procedure. If you need instruction on how to adjust the Gemmer box, I can post them. That should be the last resort when getting rid of slack in the steer system. If that adjustment is off, it is likely someone did it improperly, and may have damaged the gears. Follow Tom's suggestions to eliminate the common causes, particularly loose king bolts (pins) before you attempt anything else. It always helps to have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the front end parts. dixiejak 09-13-2012 @ 11:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 22 Joined: Jul 2011 Mike, Tom, Super and 40 Coupe, Thanks for all of your very good input on my excessive play at the steering wheel. First, Mike I have not taken the adjstment nut off yet and it is almost picture proof because the 3/4" adjusting nut is smack dab under the Red's exhaust header with only about a half inch clearance (which is another problem if I do eventually go into the steering box) I have always been leary of attempting anything other than very careful and very small adjustments on the adjusting screw on other old cars because of binding if its done wrong, and I know exactly what Tom and Supereal are trying to keep me from doing and its great advice. I first started doing exactly what Tom suggested on checking the kingpins and there is only very slight play grabbing the tire at top and bottom and trying to rock it vertically, I even took the car to the oldest and most reputable front end shop in Baton Rouge after I checked things myself, and the guy said he thought the pins were in good shape. (But it was a younger fellow that I don't believe wanted to tackle such an old car's problems frankly, so I went back home to try some more detective work myself), and I have got under and had a friend turn the steering wheel very slow back and forth in small increments and there is definitely some slight play in the whole tie rod drag link pitman arrangement, but it is almost impossible to nail down the exact point the play is actually coming from. With the whole car on jack stands front and rear (I just put in a poly tank and sending unit which turned out really well) I have found that with both wheels straight ahead, and grabbing the front and rear of one of the tires and moving back and forth, there is very little looseness or free play evident. But, when I turn the wheel all the way completely to one side or the other, and at that point, hold the front and rear of the brake drum and pull and push the drum, there must be a half inch of play at the drum, when checking this way for looseness or slop in the whole setup. I'm going to take Tom's advice and just replace all of the tie rod and drag link ends and see where that puts me. Maybe by process of elimination, I can eventually just eliminate enough small wear areas that the whole thing will end up being acceptable. I have read up quite a bit on the '40 Service Bulletins and hopefully I can get 'er done. A passing comment on the installation of the Tanks Inc Polyproplene Tank. I bought their aftermarket sending unit also, and followed the instructions very carefully(which were very good) in adapting the sending unit for the 40 Ford, and my original gas guage is working very well. I do have the old original equipment sending unit that worked very well when I took it out, and I will be happy to give it to anyone that needs one for a 40 Ford. Thanks again fellows for all the good advice. Jim TomO 09-15-2012 @ 8:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 The reason that I check the free play by jacking up only one wheel, is that the wheel on the ground keeps the tie rod and drag link from moving if there is no play in the ends. It is very easy to see where the play is. Locking the steering wheel keeps the steering shaft from turning, so you can see the play in the box. If you have any in and out movement when you check the king pins, the bushings are worn or your wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Up and down movement can be cause by a worn king pin bearing or incorrect assembly of the spindle and king pin. Tom

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