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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Sudden Stop

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smiley

05-30-2012 @ 3:17 AM

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I fired up the 40 conv. to back out of the garage, half way out it quit just like you turned the key off. I have nothing no electric to anything. Is there a master fuse that could have blown? Had to have wife help push back in garage, will have time this evening to look for problem. I love old cars. Thanks Kenny

kubes40

05-30-2012 @ 5:37 AM

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I am not by any means an electrical wizard but think I can offer some worthwhile advice.
As everything is dead - no lights, horn, etc. I'd look at the most obvious (possible) cause. That being the battery condition and / or connections to the battery.

IF the battery and connections test good, check that the ignition switch is intact and in good shape.

alanwoodieman

05-30-2012 @ 5:44 AM

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there is a circuit breaker/ballast resistor on the inner firewall, up high, these very seldom go bad but check the connections and temporarily jump across the breaker to check

supereal

05-30-2012 @ 10:59 AM

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There is no fuse or circuit breaker between the main battery feed and the ignition coil. The two main weak links are the ignition switch and the resistor. The ignition switch gets unpredictable when the moveable element wears grooves in the Bakelite body. They can be sanded out, but the replacement is not expensive. The resistors have a problem with the connection between the nichrome element and the terminals. The resistor expands and contracts as it heats and cools, and often pulls away from the ends. The nichrome wire is very hard to solder. It is better to fasten the ends under the terminals. If everything on the car is dead, the battery feed, the heavy yellow wire, is probably either loose or broken. Only the lighting circuit runs thru the circuit breaker. If you need a wiring diagram of your car, I'll post one.

kubes40

05-30-2012 @ 11:05 AM

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Super, kind of a side track here... do you know the voltage specification of the ignition resistor with the switch in the "ON" position? How about when cranking?
I am only guessing 4.5v
Thanks in advance...
Mike

supereal

05-30-2012 @ 3:16 PM

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Hi Mike! The nominal voltage at the coil input terminal with at least one of the point sets in the closed position, is 3.5 volts before cranking. The the resistor value varies with the current, as is intended. As the temperature of the resistor windings increases, it presents a higher resistance, compensating for the higher voltage of the charging part of the system. The resistor winding is the same stuff that was used in toasters. It was a really inventive way to contain the voltage so the points wouldn't burn up at higher speeds. When cranking, the voltage will fall due to the load of the starter motor. It isn't unusual to see it fall to 2 volts, or less at the coil. That is why we use a diode bypass to boost coil voltage when cranking. It really helps hot starts. Regards, Bob.

alanwoodieman

05-30-2012 @ 4:50 PM

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well d*mn what is that ugly thing on the inside firewall, anyway??-since you guys tell me it is not any sort of connection to the battery-so don't keep me in suspense tell us what it is!!

alanwoodieman

05-30-2012 @ 7:59 PM

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go over to the post on fordbarn and look up the info on the resistor I was referring to. on 6 volts it was cutting the voltage back to 2 volts. our cars won't run on 2 volts

smiley

05-31-2012 @ 3:02 AM

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Thanks for the info, I didn't get a chance to check out 40 yesterday hopefully ill have time tonight. Probably the switch since battery and cables are new,Ill post my findings. Kenny

kubes40

05-31-2012 @ 6:50 AM

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I would not assume that because the battery and cables are new they are good. Save yourself some possible frustration and TEST the battery and each cables connection.

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