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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Sun Machines, Stroboscopes, & KR Wilson Fixtures?

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Discussion Topic: Sun Machines, Stroboscopes, & KR Wilson Fixtures? -- page: 1 2 3 4

RAK402

07-19-2016 @ 12:55 PM

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Thank you, sir!

ken ct.

07-19-2016 @ 8:42 AM

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The cotter pins can be gotten from Walker in Ca. carb specilists. ken ct.

ken ct.

07-19-2016 @ 8:29 AM

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If it was rebuilt properly the weights would not be sticking !!!! ken ct.

TomO

07-19-2016 @ 7:59 AM

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McMaster Carr may still supply the cotter pins.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#

There is a seller on E-Bay that sells dist. cam lube.

Tom

RAK402

07-18-2016 @ 7:28 PM

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Does anyone have a source or a spec for the very small cotter pins used to retain the arms the moving points are attached to? One of the pins is damaged, but I never like to re-use cotter pins on anything anyway.

I have the test distributor apart (the inexpensive one from eBay). I have pulled the center out of the distributor, examined the centrifugal advance (the weights move easily and freely, there is no dirt present, etc.). The cam moves on the distributor shaft when the weights are moved out manually. The front and rear bushings look/feel good.

The points themselves look burned and the part of the arm the moving points are attached to is somewhat worn-the entire assembly will be discarded.

The only concern that I have at the moment is that the vacuum brake piston seems to be somewhat loose in the bore. The leather shoe is also worn about through. I have a new piston with shoe on the way, but may be stuck if the casting is too worn as opposed to the piston (I don't know if the professionals re-sleeve these or not). I don't know how to measure this or what the spec should be in terms of fit. I don't know if light grease or heavy oil would be appropriate, if it turns out that the repro piston is also a loose fit.

One other thing that I found interesting is that the guy at Pep Boys not only did not know what distributor cam grease was, he did not know what a distributor was...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

1935fordtn

07-10-2016 @ 2:43 PM

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No need to call me sir LOL, I just replied to your PM as well.

RAK402

07-10-2016 @ 2:13 PM

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1935fordtn,

Thank you for the additional information, sir.

If forum names and ebay I.D.'s are the same, I purchased the KR Wilson fixture from you (I sent you a PM yesterday evening, when I discovered this).

I did, incidentally, modify a protractor of the correct diameter and mounted it so that it is concentric with the center line of the fixture, so I now have a working Dwell Scale, like the later KR Wilson fixtures had (although mine does not look as nice).

I have a cheap, used distributor coming from Ebay as well, so that I have something to tear down, examine, re-assemble, and time on the fixture.

This message was edited by RAK402 on 7-10-16 @ 2:14 PM

1935fordtn

07-10-2016 @ 9:11 AM

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On a stationary fixture like the KRW the vacuum brake will make no difference. On a strobing machine like a sun machine you would want to have the brake removed or backed off, to study how the weights are advancing and when.

Vacuum brakes are a whole discussion in their own, but you should be certain they move freely in the bore. If they have too much clearance I insert a bronze bushing as then you would have a excessive vacuum leak. I run the brakes with no tension as my opinion is that in todays octane levels they are not needed. I also replace the leather tips on them..

Just curious did you buy you fixture off of eBay? if so I likely know whom you bought it from.

RAK402

07-09-2016 @ 9:57 PM

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1935fordtn,

Thank you for the very detailed answer regarding good sets of points, sir.

I will obtain a set of the ones you recommended (and will keep an eye out for NOS ones as well).

I have had my spare distributor on the KR Wilson fixture and have been running through the instructions-comparing what I am seeing vs. what the instructions say (the distributor seems to have been set up well by the person that used to do these for me-if the fixture is any guide (and, hopefully, it is).

Sorry for all the questions (but I have another)...

Should the vacuum brake be backed off or removed when using the fixture? I can find no mention of this in the Ford service bulletins or the KR Wilson instructions (the photographs show the vacuum brake present).

Thank you again for all of your help, sir.

1935fordtn

07-09-2016 @ 9:25 PM

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In my opinion and as you can gather there will many opinions..

In terms of 1932-36 Ford points the only good ones are NOS or Old Replacements such as Aampco. We are fortunate to have plenty of NOS in stock. The reproductions are terrible... to get the proper dwell the points would be set at less than .005, and keep in mind as the rubbing block wears the point gap closes. The distance from the mounting hole to the rubbing block is off by .010" on the reproductions.

In terms of late 1936-48 points they are plentiful reproduced and available. Some prefer Napa CS47, I prefer Standard FD6770. Still maybe one in every ten new sets I have found to be bad. I built and strobed 12 21A and 59A distributors this week and used FD6770 points and only found one set unusable do to floating.

As far as points bouncing or floating, it is simply caused by weak spring tension or too tight of a fit to the breaker plate. Sometimes you can bend the spring to achieve a higher RPM before bouncing but I would prefer not to.

I am no distributor expert and have only gotten into them seriously recently, but have learned a lot of mistake I have made in the past by setting them up by old methods. I have literally done over 50 dizzy in the last two months. Kind of fun!

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