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Discussion Topic:
36 Engine removal
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oakhurst |
08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Thanks, I should have realized that.
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oakhurst |
08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Thanks, I should have realized that.
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oakhurst |
08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Thanks, I should have realized that.
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TomO |
08-24-2014 @ 10:22 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you are going to do extensive work on the engine, invest in an engine stand and adapter or borrow one from a fellow Club member. The motor mounts only support the front of the engine, the rear mounts are on the transmission.
Tom
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oakhurst |
08-17-2014 @ 9:10 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Thanks, I will probably build a wooden cradle that will use the motor mounts.
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supereal |
08-16-2014 @ 1:22 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As you plan to work on the transmission too, I'd pull the engine and transmission as a unit. This requires removing the radiator sh*ll and any associated wiring, and the shift lever, but provides necessary clearance, and prevents damage. If connecting to an engine stand, use only the type that uses the exhaust bolt holes for support.
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oakhurst |
08-16-2014 @ 9:36 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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JM, did you have a reply?
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JM |
08-15-2014 @ 1:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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.......
This message was edited by JM on 8-15-14 @ 1:25 PM
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oakhurst |
08-15-2014 @ 11:29 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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We are in Oakhusrt, CA near Fresno. Joe Begoshian seems to be the local guhru, but I haven't called him yet.
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JM |
08-15-2014 @ 11:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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Nothing wrong with using a babbitt block except for finding someone who knows what they are doing to have new babbitt poured and line bored properly to fit your crankshaft mains. They have better alloys for doing this today than were available when this engine was manufactured. Having no idea where you may be located means there is no sense in mentioning the shops I know of that can do this.
John
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