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Discussion Topic:
36 Engine removal
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oakhurst |
08-14-2014 @ 1:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Any special tricks or things to avoid? Should I pull the engine & tranny together. They both need work. One thing I am trying to find out is whether I have babbits or inserts. I want to remain as original as possible, but if it has babbits I am considering a later motor.
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transbytip |
08-14-2014 @ 3:29 PM
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Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Dec 2011
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On insert blocks there is stamped on block top on l.side front next to intake will be L.B.for insert engines.pretty much getting things out of way like rad.&grille,if pulled together unbolt top of tranny to get out together,lots of work&heavy together.Cliff. tipper52501@yahoo.com
with reguards Cliff. Tipton
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JM |
08-14-2014 @ 5:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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Not all '36 LB engines are stamped with an LB on intake deck. I have two with no stamping. Also, some that are stamped LB may not actually be LB's. This has been done in the past by dishonest folks trying to get max $$'s for an early 21 stud engine that turns out to be poured babbitt. The best way to tell for sure is to remove the oil pan and measure center to center across studs for main bearing caps. Babbitt = ~ 3" and LB = ~ 3-1/4". Then just to be sure, I remove a mains cap and make sure the bearing sh*ll can be removed from the cap.
John
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TomO |
08-15-2014 @ 6:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am not sure if you will have enough clearance to remove the engine and trans as a unit, without removing the grill sh*ll, but that would be my preference.
Tom
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oakhurst |
08-15-2014 @ 9:18 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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Thanks. If it is a babbitt engine, should find another block? I just want it to run well as a driver.
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JM |
08-15-2014 @ 11:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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Nothing wrong with using a babbitt block except for finding someone who knows what they are doing to have new babbitt poured and line bored properly to fit your crankshaft mains. They have better alloys for doing this today than were available when this engine was manufactured. Having no idea where you may be located means there is no sense in mentioning the shops I know of that can do this.
John
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oakhurst |
08-15-2014 @ 11:29 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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We are in Oakhusrt, CA near Fresno. Joe Begoshian seems to be the local guhru, but I haven't called him yet.
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JM |
08-15-2014 @ 1:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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.......
This message was edited by JM on 8-15-14 @ 1:25 PM
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oakhurst |
08-16-2014 @ 9:36 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Jun 2012
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JM, did you have a reply?
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supereal |
08-16-2014 @ 1:22 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As you plan to work on the transmission too, I'd pull the engine and transmission as a unit. This requires removing the radiator sh*ll and any associated wiring, and the shift lever, but provides necessary clearance, and prevents damage. If connecting to an engine stand, use only the type that uses the exhaust bolt holes for support.
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