| oakhurst | -- 08-14-2014 @ 1:59 PM |
|
Any special tricks or things to avoid? Should I pull the engine & tranny together. They both need work. One thing I am trying to find out is whether I have babbits or inserts. I want to remain as original as possible, but if it has babbits I am considering a later motor.
|
|
| transbytip | -- 08-14-2014 @ 3:29 PM |
|
On insert blocks there is stamped on block top on l.side front next to intake will be L.B.for insert engines.pretty much getting things out of way like rad.&grille,if pulled together unbolt top of tranny to get out together,lots of work&heavy together.Cliff. tipper52501@yahoo.com with reguards Cliff. Tipton
|
|
| JM | -- 08-14-2014 @ 5:45 PM |
|
Not all '36 LB engines are stamped with an LB on intake deck. I have two with no stamping. Also, some that are stamped LB may not actually be LB's. This has been done in the past by dishonest folks trying to get max $$'s for an early 21 stud engine that turns out to be poured babbitt. The best way to tell for sure is to remove the oil pan and measure center to center across studs for main bearing caps. Babbitt = ~ 3" and LB = ~ 3-1/4". Then just to be sure, I remove a mains cap and make sure the bearing sh*ll can be removed from the cap. John
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-15-2014 @ 6:59 AM |
|
I am not sure if you will have enough clearance to remove the engine and trans as a unit, without removing the grill sh*ll, but that would be my preference. Tom
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-15-2014 @ 9:18 AM |
|
Thanks. If it is a babbitt engine, should find another block? I just want it to run well as a driver.
|
|
| JM | -- 08-15-2014 @ 11:16 AM |
|
Nothing wrong with using a babbitt block except for finding someone who knows what they are doing to have new babbitt poured and line bored properly to fit your crankshaft mains. They have better alloys for doing this today than were available when this engine was manufactured. Having no idea where you may be located means there is no sense in mentioning the shops I know of that can do this. John
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-15-2014 @ 11:29 AM |
|
We are in Oakhusrt, CA near Fresno. Joe Begoshian seems to be the local guhru, but I haven't called him yet.
|
|
| JM | -- 08-15-2014 @ 1:24 PM |
|
....... This message was edited by JM on 8-15-14 @ 1:25 PM
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-16-2014 @ 9:36 AM |
|
JM, did you have a reply?
|
|
| supereal | -- 08-16-2014 @ 1:22 PM |
|
As you plan to work on the transmission too, I'd pull the engine and transmission as a unit. This requires removing the radiator sh*ll and any associated wiring, and the shift lever, but provides necessary clearance, and prevents damage. If connecting to an engine stand, use only the type that uses the exhaust bolt holes for support.
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-17-2014 @ 9:10 AM |
|
Thanks, I will probably build a wooden cradle that will use the motor mounts.
|
|
| TomO | -- 08-24-2014 @ 10:22 AM |
|
If you are going to do extensive work on the engine, invest in an engine stand and adapter or borrow one from a fellow Club member. The motor mounts only support the front of the engine, the rear mounts are on the transmission. Tom
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM |
|
Thanks, I should have realized that.
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM |
|
Thanks, I should have realized that.
|
|
| oakhurst | -- 08-24-2014 @ 11:06 AM |
|
Thanks, I should have realized that.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=7617 |