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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / chatter when pulling away in first gear

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Posted By Discussion Topic: chatter when pulling away in first gear -- page: 1 2     fenbach 09-25-2013 @ 8:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 227 Joined: Dec 2009 with all this talk about replacing a pressure plate, i thought i'd mention that mac van pelt has the torque specs on his web site http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_servicelinks.htm click on General Torque Specifications for 1932-48 V8 oil on the clutch plate will make it grab. something to check for. 1938cr 09-25-2013 @ 8:14 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 35 Joined: Jan 2010 Thanks, I will give it a try. Charlie TomO 09-25-2013 @ 8:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Charlie, I just put wooden wedges between the cover and the fingers. Put pressure on the fingers and drive the wedges in with light taps from a hammer. Tom 1938cr 09-24-2013 @ 9:03 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 35 Joined: Jan 2010 Hi all: What is the process for blocking the fingers? Thanks, Charlie TomO 09-24-2013 @ 5:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 I am glad that you did answer. I have company visiting me and cannot always get time to answer questions on here. Thanks again. Tom supereal 09-22-2013 @ 11:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Didn't mean to step on your answer, Tom. It is the rare old Ford that doesn't have some clutch chatter, as shown by the frequent posts on the subject. My Model A's had solid spoke clutch disks, and shudder was rare. I suppose that when spring centers were added, it was expected it would help, if not cure it. That doesn't seem to be the case. Many manufacturers of vehicles in the early days fought the same problem. There were multiple disk clutches, such as in the very early A's, wet clutches, cork facings, etc, even magnetic couplings, but none eliminated it altogether. When I reassembled my '47, I carefully refaced the flywheel and checked it for runout, replaced pilot and transmission bearings, and calibrated the pressure plate and disk before careful installation. A new release ahaft and bushings were installed, and the linkage was renewed. Still, I have enough shudder to be noticable. For those who hope to find a cure, I suspect they, too, will be disappointed. TomO 09-22-2013 @ 8:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Supereal, thanks for answering the question. So many people forget this simple step and then have problems. I also measure the distance from the top of the cover to the fingers to make sure that all of them are equal when the plate is installed. A slight difference in the distance can also lead to clutch chatter. Tom supereal 09-20-2013 @ 11:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Yes, it does make a difference. The pressure plate to flywheel mounting bolts are special fasteners, part number 350433-S. They are available from C&G for $20 as a set of six. They are 5/16"-18 X .77". Any rotating part must be carefuuly balanced, and any deviation will usually show up as a periodic vibration. The reason to block the three "fingers" of the pressure plate is to prevent warping of the plate cover. Here, again any warping of the cover will show up, mostly as excessive cluth chatter. These tolerances are very small, but very important. Most of the chatter(or shudder) results from the reformulation of the facing to eliminate asbestos. That is why many disc replacements shudder when the old disc didn't. If your disc isn't burned, or worn down close to the rivets, I'd reuse it, if your clutch didn't have excessive shudder before. Some shudder is to be expected with old Fords because it is built into the driveline's archaic design. Many attemts to fix it, such as engine rods, were futile. I'm attaching a diagram for a brace that was commonly sold in the 40's, but did little good. This message was edited by supereal on 9-20-13 @ 11:21 AM fenbach 09-19-2013 @ 1:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 227 Joined: Dec 2009 tom, you mention "blocking the finger" before installing a pressure plate. did you mean fingers - all 3? i reinstalled the original pressure plate years ago without blocking anything, and it worked just fine. just yesterday installed a rebuilt pressure plate and have to hope i didn't warp anything. would any good come of loosing it, blocking the fingers and tightening it back up? as an aside, i bought replacement pressure plate bolts, Mr. Gasket brand, only to find they were too long. 1" rather than 3/4. i cut and ground them back to 3/4. roy nazewicz told me he just sells off-the-shelf bolts. anybody know if it really makes any difference? thanks. bob shogun1940 08-27-2013 @ 4:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 464 Joined: Feb 2010 has anyone ever checked the runout of the flywheel? My 48 is all old and original and it is smooth,with old mounts .

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