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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Fuel pump question

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Fuel pump question -- page: 1 2     TomO 05-16-2012 @ 7:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7263 Joined: Oct 2009 The brass plug is not shaped like a ball, it is about 1/16' round and about 3/32" long. It blocks the passage from the flex line to the input valve of the pump. There is no check valve between the glass bowl and the input valve. Most pumps have the casting block the passage. I don't know where you ball came from, but it doesn't belong in any of the pumps that I have seen for the Ford cars. Tom Old Henry 05-15-2012 @ 9:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 738 Joined: Apr 2010 If the pump's not working, a new one is the easiest and quickest fix, and cheaper than a rebuilt one. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) jeffsang 05-15-2012 @ 3:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2011 Supereal, the ball is a perfectly round ball bearing/check ball, definetly not a ferrule. It is too big to have passed through the fuel line or rubber hose. If the ball is supposed to not be there, I will omit it and reassemble it and check it for vacumn. Last poster said it is part of some pumps, I'm confused. I am ready to order a new one and deal with this one later, I can show it to some of the guys in my local group. Thanks Jeff supereal 05-15-2012 @ 9:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Did the "ball" have a hole in it? If so, it is likely a ferrule from somewhere in the line between the tank and the pump. There are no check valves in the pump, only the flat cicular inlet and outlet valves held in place by flat bracket. Some hoses that connect the line to the pump at the firewall are being sold that have a check valve in them. As you report that you did replace that hose, was it a "check valve" type designed to elimate "siphoning"? I haven't seen any of those, as they appear to be a solution in search of a problem. TomO 05-15-2012 @ 7:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7263 Joined: Oct 2009 Some pumps have a brass plug to keep the gas from going directly to the input valve without going in the glass bowl. The passage from the bowl to the output of the fuel pump should be open to the input valve. If your plug came out, it is time to replace the fuel pump. Tom jeffsang 05-14-2012 @ 3:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2011 upon closer examination of the pump, I see a check ball that is wedged in the passage way between the glass bowl part of pump and the "pump" part of pump. Gas enters the pump housing, drops down hole to fill glass bowl, then there's the ball, blocking the fuel from entering the other part. Where does the ball belong? Ball was wedged pretty tight, it came out but not sure where it goes??? Jeff jeffsang 05-14-2012 @ 1:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2011 Ok, I attached a vaccum gauge to the inlet side of pump and cranked engine, no vacumm at all. All connections seem pretty tight and I have no inline filter, only fittings are at the tank and the rubber hose. Removed pump and dissambeled, diaphram looks weatherbeaten around the inside part. glass bowl seemed to be on tight, seal looked ok. Will reassemble everything and check again just to see what happens. Jeff supereal 05-14-2012 @ 12:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Missed that part of it, Jeff. I'd suspect a connection between the tank and the firewall that is admitting air. If you have an inline filter, and used the spring clips that came with the filter, replace those with worn gear type clamps. If you had the pump off, it is possible that the rod is not centered in the cup of the pump lever arm. When I replace a pump, I remove the stand with the pump, then install the pump and stand as a unit so it can be set down on the manifold as a unit. That allows the pump cup to drop onto the rod. When you have the pump off, work the lever by hand to see if it can draw fuel correctly. Be sure you actually have enough gas in the tank. That sounds dumb, but we have vehicles brought to our shop with an empty tank now and then after "they just stopped". When you say "hard to start when hot", do you mean it doesn't turn over fast enough, or does crank, but doesn't fire? This message was edited by supereal on 5-14-12 @ 12:47 PM jeffsang 05-14-2012 @ 12:26 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2011 Like I said in my 1st post, I just replaced the entire fuel line from tank to fuel pump including the rubber flex hose with parts from Mac's and Carpenters. Now I cannot pull any fuel up to the pump. The car was mostly hard to start before especially when hot. Will try to do a vaccum test. Just weighing my options for a replacement pump. supereal 05-14-2012 @ 10:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I've posted this before, but this problem is identical to one I had with my '47. After replacing my fuel pump due to starvation of the carb, the problem persisted to the point where my electric booster pump couldn't get me home. The only part of the system that wasn't renewed during restoration was the line between the tank and the firewall. When I couldn't blow compressed air thru it, I took it out, straightened it, and tried to force a wire thru it, with no luck. Finally, I got rust and dirt out. The line had gradually clogged until no more fuel got thru. It is only a 1/4" line, just big enough to do the job, and when it is clogged, it is easy to blame the fuel pump, "vapor lock", etc. When the copper coating in the steel line is breached, it doesn't take long for rust to form. You can have pressure in the line, but no delivery. Before you spend time and money on fuel pumps, consider a $20 replacement fuel line. It is likely you will cure the problem and be amazed at the improvement. C&G sells the line, complete with fittings.

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