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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1946 Clock

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1946 Clock -- page: 1 2     Steves46 05-10-2012 @ 11:12 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Over the few years that I have tinkered with my 46 Coupe I am convinced that in most cases when a glitch occurs, it usually has to do with the last thing you were messing with. However, my latest challenge may be pure coincidence. Shortly after making improved connections from my headlight harness to the main harness (which by the way tremendously improved my 6-volt headlights), a few a days later, my clock decided to quit working. Since the fuse was good, my next step was testing for power which I was receiving. I also checked the clock mounting bolts for a good ground and it too lit the test light. Finally, I bypassed the fuse with a temp wire for direct power…nothing! Looks like I will be pulling the clock out for repair but before I do so, is there anything else I may be overlooking? Many thanks. supereal 05-10-2012 @ 1:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The usual cause for a clock such as yours to quit working is that the points that trigger the winding "kicker" are not making contact. After removing the clock from the dash, take off the back cover. You will see the contacts. If you have an ignition points file, dress the points with that. If not, use a piece of cardboard for the task, never sandpaper or emery cloth. While you have the clock apart, connect it to a battery to be sure it winds. If not, carefully inspect the very fine wires that connect the winding coil to be sure they are intact. If they are, bridge the points to see if the kicker works. If it does, but the clock still doesn't tick, it is time for an expert. We use Bob's Speedometer in Michigan. The clock is actually a mechanical spring wound device, and if the spring is OK, the works probably need to be cleaned and adjusted. Over the years, I've brought many of these clocks back to life. It is also possible to have a battery operated quartz movement installed so the clock doesn't run down the car battery over long periods of inactivity. I prefer a master switch on the battery. Some owners remove the clock fuse for the same reason. Steves46 05-11-2012 @ 5:45 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks. I will give it a go and hopefully save a buck or two having to send it off. oldford2 05-11-2012 @ 9:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 275 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, When we first got our 46 the clock did not work. I read about cleaning the points so thought I would give it a try. However, when I took the clock out to take it apart I found that the back had tabs instead of screws. I did not want to unbend them to take it apart so I sent it out to a car clock person (?). Has worked great now for 7 years. John Steves46 05-11-2012 @ 12:01 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi John. On the back of mine there are 3 scews; 1 in the upper corner for clock speed and 2 on a slightly raised box. If I don't see the points after removing the screws, I will close and send it off. I don't want to go exploring in unfamiliar territory. Steves46 05-16-2012 @ 4:19 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Update.....the clock is now working better than ever and I didn't touch a thing however now my front headlights seem to only work when they feel like it-the parking lights work fine and there are no symptoms of short circuits. Although I know there may be other possible causes, I have a feeling the circuit breaker may become weak or intermittent. Are these known to get weak over time? When I get home this evening I will be certainly conducting other tests such as power at the switch and dimmer switch. To test the circuit breaker, is it just a matter of placing the volt meter or test light on the connection point? If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, it appears the center connection is for the headlights. Hopefully I will be able to determine the source of the problem. TomO 05-16-2012 @ 6:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 The dimmer switch is prone to failure, because it is not used much. You can disassemble it and clean it and lube it with a none hardening grease such as Vaseline or corrosion inhibiting grease, or just try operating it about 20 times. To test the circuit breaker, just jumper across the connecting points. The headlight circuit appears to be the yellow/ red wire. The parking lights and interior lights all go through the same set of points in the circuit breaker. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 5-16-12 @ 6:52 AM Steves46 05-16-2012 @ 7:00 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks Tom. In fact I neglected to check and see if the tail lights were working with the switch pulled all the way out. Besides double checking that, I think the first test I will do is check for current going to the dimmer switch. supereal 05-16-2012 @ 8:35 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 As noted above, the dimmer switch is a regular offender, being mounted below the floorboards where road gunk can reach it. Another weak spot in the lighting circuit are the "bullet connectors" found throughout Ford vehicles. They make the original assembly of the car easier, but over time they lose contact. We solder them, and use heat shrink tubing as a cover. The lighting circuit under the hood along the inside of the laft front fender should be carefully checked. At 6 volts, even slight losses in these connectors can add up to dim or inoperable lights. Steves46 05-16-2012 @ 9:12 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Amen to that. In fact, I did away with the bullets and went with flat spade connectors and wow, what a difference that made!

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