| jeffsang | -- 05-13-2012 @ 5:36 PM |
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I'm a new 48 Coupe owner, car has been mostly hard to start since purchased. Always very hard to start when hot, starts ok sometimes when cold. Just drained fuel tank and replaced entire fuel line and fittings with a kit from Mac's and rubber flex hose. Tank has been replaced recently and is clean. Tried starting car today and no fuel is coming up to the glass bowl after a lot of cranking. Pump looks very clean, however it has no "AC" markings. Maybe an aftermarket, my understanding is these cannot be rebuilt. Where would the "AC" markings be if its an original. I just helped a fellow club member install a rebuilt motor in his 46 after sitting 6 months and fuel bowl was filling up within 10 seconds. Where can I get a good fuel pump from that is rebuildable? Jeff
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| oldford2 | -- 05-13-2012 @ 5:55 PM |
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Check out this thread on the Fordbarn about fuel pumps. Contact KenCT for a rebuilt/rebuildable pump. Copy and paste this in your browser. http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69544 John
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| Old Henry | -- 05-13-2012 @ 10:51 PM |
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I got this one from C&G 5 years ago and it still works fine. https://secure435.hostgator.com/~dlvry40/ufolder/CgCat.php?searchtextdesc=59A-9350&catalog_choice=All+catalogs&year_choice=48&btAddTpCart.x=15&btAddTpCart.y=6 Except, of course, when it's vapor locked. For that I added a backup low pressure electric inline pump back by the fuel tank that solves that problem when needed. Photo of my backup installation attached. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) This message was edited by Old Henry on 5-13-12 @ 10:52 PM
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| jeffsang | -- 05-14-2012 @ 4:29 AM |
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Are the pumps rebuildable that come from C&G, Mac's and Carpenter's?
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| ken ct. | -- 05-14-2012 @ 5:09 AM |
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I have fresh "AC" rebuilds @ $70 + $20 core chg +$10 shipping.Also contain a replaceable paper filter in them. ken ct.10203-260-5945 cell #
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| ken ct. | -- 05-14-2012 @ 5:11 AM |
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I have fresh "AC" rebuilds @ $70 + $20 core chg +$10 shipping.Also contain a replaceable paper filter in them. ken ct.10203-260-5945 cell #
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| TomO | -- 05-14-2012 @ 7:18 AM |
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Connect a vacuum gauge to the input of your fuel pump and crank the engine, the fuel pump should develop 10 inches of vacuum an it should take1 minute or more to fall to 0 when you stop cranking. If your pump meets these specs, it is in good condition. If it doesn't, then I would check the gasket in the sediment bowl, it should be a rubberized cork and not dried out. If the pump is good, you probably have a vacuum leak in the fuel line connections. Disconnect the line from the tank and from the flex line. Plug the tank opening to prevent fumes or gas leaking. Flush the line with alcohol and the solder the ferrules at each end and then re-install the line. Hard starting when warm can be caused by a weak spark or too much or too little fuel. Check your spark at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature by holding a plug wire near a head nut. It should be at least 1/2" long and blue in color. If not, check out the ignition system. Check for fuel in the carburetor by looking down the barrel of the carburetor and operating the accelerator pedal. You should see 2 streams of gas come from the accelerator nozzle. If you have the streams and spark, then your engine may be flooded due to a leaking power valve or an incorrect float setting. Tom
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| 37 Coupe | -- 05-14-2012 @ 7:47 AM |
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Just go to Napa and buy the M825 fuel pump,it is USA made probably by Carter or Airtex,the box says Federal Mogul. I have been using a new one for almost three years now with none of the problems I had before from rebuilt ones from "fuel pump gurus" who claimed they were providing me with an ethanol proof pump. I don't know or care of the pump is rebuildable because I don't ever want another "rebuilt pump" that requires a ride home on the roll back. I believe I paid less for the new one the rebuilt one with "core charge".This has been my expierience with actual miles driven,not from someone whoes car just sits in garage.
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| supereal | -- 05-14-2012 @ 10:05 AM |
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I've posted this before, but this problem is identical to one I had with my '47. After replacing my fuel pump due to starvation of the carb, the problem persisted to the point where my electric booster pump couldn't get me home. The only part of the system that wasn't renewed during restoration was the line between the tank and the firewall. When I couldn't blow compressed air thru it, I took it out, straightened it, and tried to force a wire thru it, with no luck. Finally, I got rust and dirt out. The line had gradually clogged until no more fuel got thru. It is only a 1/4" line, just big enough to do the job, and when it is clogged, it is easy to blame the fuel pump, "vapor lock", etc. When the copper coating in the steel line is breached, it doesn't take long for rust to form. You can have pressure in the line, but no delivery. Before you spend time and money on fuel pumps, consider a $20 replacement fuel line. It is likely you will cure the problem and be amazed at the improvement. C&G sells the line, complete with fittings.
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| jeffsang | -- 05-14-2012 @ 12:26 PM |
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Like I said in my 1st post, I just replaced the entire fuel line from tank to fuel pump including the rubber flex hose with parts from Mac's and Carpenters. Now I cannot pull any fuel up to the pump. The car was mostly hard to start before especially when hot. Will try to do a vaccum test. Just weighing my options for a replacement pump.
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| supereal | -- 05-14-2012 @ 12:45 PM |
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Missed that part of it, Jeff. I'd suspect a connection between the tank and the firewall that is admitting air. If you have an inline filter, and used the spring clips that came with the filter, replace those with worn gear type clamps. If you had the pump off, it is possible that the rod is not centered in the cup of the pump lever arm. When I replace a pump, I remove the stand with the pump, then install the pump and stand as a unit so it can be set down on the manifold as a unit. That allows the pump cup to drop onto the rod. When you have the pump off, work the lever by hand to see if it can draw fuel correctly. Be sure you actually have enough gas in the tank. That sounds dumb, but we have vehicles brought to our shop with an empty tank now and then after "they just stopped". When you say "hard to start when hot", do you mean it doesn't turn over fast enough, or does crank, but doesn't fire? This message was edited by supereal on 5-14-12 @ 12:47 PM
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| jeffsang | -- 05-14-2012 @ 1:35 PM |
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Ok, I attached a vaccum gauge to the inlet side of pump and cranked engine, no vacumm at all. All connections seem pretty tight and I have no inline filter, only fittings are at the tank and the rubber hose. Removed pump and dissambeled, diaphram looks weatherbeaten around the inside part. glass bowl seemed to be on tight, seal looked ok. Will reassemble everything and check again just to see what happens. Jeff
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| jeffsang | -- 05-14-2012 @ 3:11 PM |
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upon closer examination of the pump, I see a check ball that is wedged in the passage way between the glass bowl part of pump and the "pump" part of pump. Gas enters the pump housing, drops down hole to fill glass bowl, then there's the ball, blocking the fuel from entering the other part. Where does the ball belong? Ball was wedged pretty tight, it came out but not sure where it goes??? Jeff
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| TomO | -- 05-15-2012 @ 7:40 AM |
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Some pumps have a brass plug to keep the gas from going directly to the input valve without going in the glass bowl. The passage from the bowl to the output of the fuel pump should be open to the input valve. If your plug came out, it is time to replace the fuel pump. Tom
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| supereal | -- 05-15-2012 @ 9:30 AM |
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Did the "ball" have a hole in it? If so, it is likely a ferrule from somewhere in the line between the tank and the pump. There are no check valves in the pump, only the flat cicular inlet and outlet valves held in place by flat bracket. Some hoses that connect the line to the pump at the firewall are being sold that have a check valve in them. As you report that you did replace that hose, was it a "check valve" type designed to elimate "siphoning"? I haven't seen any of those, as they appear to be a solution in search of a problem.
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| jeffsang | -- 05-15-2012 @ 3:03 PM |
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Supereal, the ball is a perfectly round ball bearing/check ball, definetly not a ferrule. It is too big to have passed through the fuel line or rubber hose. If the ball is supposed to not be there, I will omit it and reassemble it and check it for vacumn. Last poster said it is part of some pumps, I'm confused. I am ready to order a new one and deal with this one later, I can show it to some of the guys in my local group. Thanks Jeff
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| Old Henry | -- 05-15-2012 @ 9:03 PM |
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If the pump's not working, a new one is the easiest and quickest fix, and cheaper than a rebuilt one. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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| TomO | -- 05-16-2012 @ 7:05 AM |
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The brass plug is not shaped like a ball, it is about 1/16' round and about 3/32" long. It blocks the passage from the flex line to the input valve of the pump. There is no check valve between the glass bowl and the input valve. Most pumps have the casting block the passage. I don't know where you ball came from, but it doesn't belong in any of the pumps that I have seen for the Ford cars. Tom
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