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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Couple of rear-pulling questions - 1936

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Couple of rear-pulling questions - 1936 -- page: 1 2     Henryat1140 11-05-2011 @ 3:31 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 110 Joined: Nov 2009 I'm getting ready to have the transmission inspected for refurbish and repair. 1936 Car totaly stock. I've not done this in years, and have a couple of questions: 1. Is it better to leave the rear wheels on so the rear can be moved back while still on the tires? Or is it better to remove the wheels and let it 'skid' back on the brake drums? 2. About how far do I have to move the rear back to have enough room to remove the transmission? Reason For asking is, I may have a slight clearance problem with the garage door at the rear of the car I'd like to leave the car on the jack stands in place with the rear pulled back while the trans is off being looked at. 3. I'll be working over a pit, and will have the option of pulling the trans out through the top or down out the bottom. Is there a strong reason to do it one way or the other? I may have couple more questions but for now, could you guys help me out with these. Thanks in advance Henry kubes40 11-05-2011 @ 4:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3398 Joined: Oct 2009 There's no reason you need to roll the rear assembly back more than 6" or so. I like to leave the tires / rims on and simply roll the entire unit back. I am not certain on a 36 but on a 39 & 40 the transmission must come out of the top. Stroker 11-05-2011 @ 5:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 For most of my life, I've had access to a pit. If I were pulling a trans today, even with a pit, I'd opt for lifting it up and out simply because it is so much easier to lift it by the shift lever, than it is to hold it over your head in a pit. The exception would be if you have some sort of transmission jack on a rolling stand in the pit. The nice thing about EV8 transmissions is that they are very light. I've pulled big, heavy Fuller 10-speeds out the top as well, with come-a-long hooked to a beam installed through the window openings. I think it is safer to lift up, than to be underneath unless you have a transmission jack. ford38v8 11-05-2011 @ 6:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2759 Joined: Oct 2009 Henry, I agree, remove it from the top. I don't agree about leaving the shift tower on. With the tranny drained, the open top covered with rags, you have a lighter, more compact package to deal with. Do not fail to protect your interior against stains. I like my wheels off, as with them off, you have more options of differfential placement after removal. Safety can be an issue also, as the wheels would still be within the wheelwells. Alan flatheadfan 11-06-2011 @ 2:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 Henry- The rear bearing retainer/mount of a '36 transmission sets on two frame-mounted platforms. As a result, there is no way the transmission can be removed from below. Second, I like to leave the wheels on as it allows for easier in and out of the torque tube assembly and makes reassembly alignment easier. Finally, in order to get the torque assembly back enough to clear the u-joint you will need to remove a some floorpan bolts and wedge a couple pieces of wood between the floor pan and the frame. This probably makes no sense now but you will see what I am referring to when you attempt to pull the torque tube assembly back enough to remove the transmission. You will find the floor pan will prevent the torque tube assembly from moving back! Hope this helps. Tom supereal 11-06-2011 @ 10:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 When we pull a rear end, we place the frame on jack stands, put a floor jack under the center of the axle, raise it, and remove the wheels. This allows us to pull the axle with greater clearance by then lowering it enough to clear, and rolling it back on the jack. This doesn't apply to working over a pit, of course, but few, if any, of us have that situation. To reinstall the axle, simply reverse this process. This message was edited by supereal on 11-6-11 @ 10:10 AM Billc 11-06-2011 @ 12:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 19 Joined: Jan 2010 I have never done this before but it is in my future. I have a 36 pickup, are there any differences between that and a car? Tom, you talk about wedging the floor pan up, is the seat stand in the pickup in the way too? I don't think it moves at all. Bill 36 pickup 47 COE flatheadfan 11-07-2011 @ 5:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 450 Joined: Oct 2009 Billc- I can't speak directly about the truck situation but for cars the "wedging" is done in front of the seat/seat frame. Tom v8teditor 11-07-2011 @ 8:12 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 146 Joined: Dec 2009 It's been awhile, like 20+ years and my memory ain't what it once was, but I also believe one has to place a jack or other support under the engine as the engine/tranny are ONE unit when in the car. Engine/tranny supported from front of engine and rear of tranny. To remove tranny one has to unbolt it from the engine as well as the drive shaft for removal. I agree with the removal from the top. Stroker 11-07-2011 @ 8:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 V8teditor: Glad you brought that up. Some of us just "assume". I like to pad the oil pan with a 2x6 block to prevent the jack from denting the pan as well.

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