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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Couple of rear-pulling questions - 1936

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Discussion Topic: Couple of rear-pulling questions - 1936 -- page: 1 2

Henryat1140

11-10-2011 @ 6:43 AM

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Wonder if that's the reason my snap-on tools are missing?

11-09-2011 @ 9:26 PM

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Henry, You should be more careful about who you let work on your nice '36 Ford Phaeton. Those two guys look like recent escapees from the Harford Co. Detention Center who have recently been caught posing as Early Ford V8 mechanics. They would probably do most anything to get a free lunch!!

LOL

JM

Henryat1140

11-09-2011 @ 7:22 PM

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Wednesday morning.

We got the car apart, didn't break anything. JMSedan was the brains and a friend of mine who is strong was the muscle.

I don't know if it was the angle or what, but we didn't need to raise the floorpan, the rear slid back about 6-8" and we had enough clearance.

We did remove the rear transmission mount because doing so allowed a lesser angle on the rear of the transmission, thus putting less strain on the front motor mounts.

We used a rope sling and lifted it out from above, after moving the convertible top back halfway.

I now have a number of small tasks to do before re-assembly and will be hitting you guys with a few more requests for guidance.

Henryat1140

11-08-2011 @ 5:21 AM

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Thanks so much for all the suggestions and support. It's Tuesday morning and we are going to do the deed today. JMSedan and another buddy will be here. I'll report on how it went.

Thanks Again,

Henry

supereal

11-07-2011 @ 4:21 PM

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The frame prevents pulling the transmission from below on old Fords. I learned a trick long ago to make the job easier for one man. We used a large metal hook, much like a bale hook, for my fellow old timers, with your floorboards out, the seat back, and your legs straddling the transmission, you place the hook in the inspection hole, and yank it back and up. The same tool helps you lower the box into place so you can push it home into the clutch disk and pilot bearing. For first timers, be sure you have the clutch disk centered in the pressure plate with the proper tool, if you change the clutch, a recommended item while you have the transmission out. Be sure to support the rear of the engine with a jack and block because the rear mounts will be removed.

TomO

11-07-2011 @ 9:33 AM

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I remove the wheels. I disconnect the spring from the U-bolts and lower the rear end with my floor jack until the spring can clear the frame and gas tank, then pull it back with the floor jack. Leaving the wheels on, would mean raising the car higher than my jack stands can safely support the car.

Tom

Stroker

11-07-2011 @ 8:44 AM

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V8teditor:

Glad you brought that up. Some of us just "assume". I like to pad the oil pan with a
2x6 block to prevent the jack from denting the pan as well.

v8teditor

11-07-2011 @ 8:12 AM

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It's been awhile, like 20+ years and my memory ain't what it once was, but I also believe one has to place a jack or other support under the engine as the engine/tranny are ONE unit when in the car. Engine/tranny supported from front of engine and rear of tranny. To remove tranny one has to unbolt it from the engine as well as the drive shaft for removal. I agree with the removal from the top.

flatheadfan

11-07-2011 @ 5:33 AM

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Billc-

I can't speak directly about the truck situation but for cars the "wedging" is done in front of the seat/seat frame.

Tom

Billc

11-06-2011 @ 12:53 PM

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I have never done this before but it is in my future. I have a 36 pickup, are there any differences between that and a car? Tom, you talk about wedging the floor pan up, is the seat stand in the pickup in the way too? I don't think it moves at all.

Bill

36 pickup 47 COE

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